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I got new front and rear springs from A-Springs and want to prepare them for installation. My question is how big of a C clamp do I need to disassemble them for filing, lubing, painting. I don't know how much compression there is. Would I need a 6"-8"-10" to handle the springs relaxing. At A-Springs recommendation I got the 10 leaf rear but want to remove #7 and #9 for a better ride (again their recommendation).
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Mick there is some tension on the spring pack, but nothing crazy. I have wrapped chain around both sides and fastened it with a bolt and nut. I have also used C-clamps, as long as they go around the spring leafs with some play your good. It's not that much pressure but it will give a little pop.-
So I use the C clamp to enclose the spring rather than clamping it and slowly releasing the tension? -
Ahhhh...thought you were removing. It's easy to remove and install. I had to cut my shackles that hold the spring. Rusted solid. PB Blaster and a little yellow bottle torch is your friend with all the bolts. I ran across a lot of stripped bolts and nuts as well. I doubt that car will be a basket case like mine. HAHAHA
Just attach the spring to the rear with shackle grease fittings towards rear and long center bolt through the centers. Add the clips on both sides and lower frame down centering hole on rear cross member to center bolt on spring.
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Beau these are off the vehicle,, big difference.. yes just enclose / capture them..Comment
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Was this a dumb question you asked that we answered Beau I mean about graphite and painting. Yea we love ya..png "tongue")
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To answer the question, I've had good luck using C clamp that opens to 6 1/4" on an eight leaf spring. It should work on a 10 leaf with just a small amount of residual tension that you could deal with safely.Comment
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With the front springs, a light weight 6 in will do it, and really you may not need a clamp, if your using a new center bolt.
With the rear spring, I was scared so I used the heaviest clamp I had, when the clamp was opened to it's max about 6 or 8 inches, I had a little tension left in the spring, it wasn't bad to deal with.Comment
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Mickey
Did you ask A-springs about lubricating the new springs? I thought i remember that they did not recommend thatComment
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This is from their website.
"Use a light coat of EP (extreme pressure) grease on the underside of each leaf prior to assembly. This will allow for a smoother action between the leaves and provide for a softer ride."
Mitch what do you think of the Teflon ball caps for the shock links? Bratton's seems to like them. Says never needs greasing.
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Even the Teflon ones should have grease to keep the metal parts from rusting.Originally posted by Mickey View Post
The rear spring is most dangerous when it's shackled in place to the rear axle, because this pulls the spring leaves flatter and that puts a lot of tension on the center bolt. I was taking a junk Model A apart with the body off. I thought it was strange that when I was removing the 4 nuts from the 2 U bolts that they were so tight, right up to the last thread. Well, I didn't think about the center bolt being rusted in half, and when I got to the last thread on the U bolts, the frame suddenly jumped a few feet in the air. Luckily my head was just behind the rear crossmember when this happened, but it sure woke me up.Comment
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Got them beveled, lubed and assembled. The rear is ready to install and the front just needs primer and paint.
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Be careful installing the rear spring. I was not, and I was extremely lucky to get away alive and unharmed.
I took mine out with a homemade spreader. It was dark out, and my neighbor and I were working with a outside floodlights and a drop light. Needless to say, when I tapped out the second shackle, the spring took off - up!! We both ran, and heard branches breaking in the tree above. The spring came down, and went about 10” into the ground. We were SO Lucky to not be hurt or killed!!
Needless to say, I ordered a spring spreader from Snyder’s to put it back in. I admit I was scared, but it went back perfectly, without any problems.Comment
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My reversed eye front spring went in easily. I can see that the rear needs to be spread. Of course a spring spreader won't work with it. I was going to use the K. R. Wilson spreader but I have been warned that it is a very dangerous tool. It was also suggested to dismantle the spring. Bolt in the main leaf by itself as it would be easy to spread by hand. Then reassemble the spring. What do you th...11-30-2020, 08:11 PM -
I think my throttle return spring is weak. I have a new one
from Snyder’s. Is there a trick to removing and replacing?
It is a torsion spring. Does it need to get wrapped a few times and set like a “mouse trap?
Do I just wedge a screw driver on the last wrap and pop the old one out?
just trying to look before I leap
thank you...07-21-2019, 05:25 PM -
I got my differential shoved up in place today. Is there a torque spec on the Ubolt nuts? Seems like I can favor the spring to one side or the other by the tightness. I am glad to get this hung....You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 1 photos.04-21-2018, 07:15 PM -
Just installed front spring for a friend, trying the Andrews redbook method (wood block) for the 1st time. We usually use a spreader but this instance didn't remove the splash apron, so the spreader nut was a challenge. The thin wood blocks between the spring eyes even when greased can bind under axle pressure, so we added a thin piece of greased scrap metal on top of the block so the spring eye would...02-23-2019, 12:56 PM
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I have a question on restoring an original front spring. The spring is a standard 10 leaf spring. I have sandblasted the individual leaves. The question is: Should I epoxy prime the individual leaves before assembling them. I plan to use John Deere Slip Plate between the leaves to provide a lubricant. Any helpful comments would be appreciated on whether the leaves should be painted or just assemble...06-21-2019, 01:31 PM
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What is the best way to restore the leaf springs?
Electrolisis...Sand blast...wire wheel...all the above ...none of the above...
Followed by painting each leaf or not?...or use graphite grease...
Assemble....
What have you done in your restoration to have a good looking front and rear spring?
Thanks.
Pluck01-19-2019, 12:20 AM -
This has worked well for me. I've done a few for customers. Round the bottoms of the ends of each spring leaf. Grind the edge of any worn pockets on the tops of each spring leaf. Sandblast and powdercoat the springs, then coat them with Mystik JT-6 High Temp grease, sprinkle on graphite, and wrap them with spring covers. I can't imagine they will ever see a speck of rust in my lifetime, and they have...You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 3 photos.07-18-2017, 07:16 AM -
Pulled the rear from the car and removed all the brakes. Got it on saw horses and have what is called a traveling spring spreader looking for any extra precautions in removing spring with a spreader of this type . Thanks07-01-2018, 03:17 PM -
Marco Tahtaras did an excelent REAR Spring Chart showing just where the different individual springs went in a assembled REAR spring.
That being the case ...did he ever do one for the FRONT Spring Assembly?
I say this because I have several disassembled front springs and I do not know just where some of the leaves would go because they are of different lengths and thicknesses....01-20-2019, 04:08 PM
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