Tweet
Is the two piece as good as the original?
-
-
I replaced a two piece with an repop original, the two piece was worn out, I feel for not being tight enough. The only difference between the two types is saving radiator removal for future work. -
I have seen the two piece pulleys either have broken tangs where they mate together or have some run out on the pulley itself. I would only replace it with a one piece pulley.Comment
-
I have heard good things about the Bill Stipe one piece pulley.Comment
-
First hand knowledge-- Bill Stipe's one piece crank pulleys are great. You will never need another one.Alaskan A's
Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska
Model A Ford Club of America
Model A Restorers Club
Antique Automobile Club of America
Mullins Owners ClubComment
-
Carl, do they have the stock appearance?Comment
-
Mitch,
Bill's pulleys are machined from solid stock and do not have spokes. I had a 2 piece before so I don't know what an original looks like.Alaskan A's
Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska
Model A Ford Club of America
Model A Restorers Club
Antique Automobile Club of America
Mullins Owners ClubComment
-
This motor is a AER and it broke the pulley. AER is sending me a two piece to replace the broken one piece. I might try and find a one piece.Comment
-
I've had a couple engines with the two piece pulley, and never had a problem with them.
I like the serviceability of the two piece pulley, but usually will install a one piece on my permanent engines for my cars, just to be more original.Comment
-
Another 2 piece pulley failure. I was changing the fan belt and noticed quite a bit of play in the fan and upon further inspection I discovered the Bratton's crank pulley I put on about 3 years ago has pieces of the outer half casting broken off at the interlock notch. I will try the LH threaded ones that Bill mentioned to avoid a radiator tear out until the cold weather hits. Bummer!!You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 3 photos.Comment
-
I had to replace my pulley and ordered the 2 piece as pictured by JtownJoe. I have had it with the 2 piece. The new ordered 2 piece failed in about 700 miles. The supplier replaced it and in about 400 miles it failed too. Took the one piece original pulley off a spare engine and had no more problems. I found another failing pulley on a friends coupe and we replaced it with the left hand threaded 2 piece. It is a good design and no problems. The one as pictured is junk in my opinion and should not be used. Get the original one piece or the threaded 2 piece.
-
-
Is the oil slinger in place?Originally posted by JtownJoe View Post
Did the pulley stand a bit proud of the crankshaft? It must, or the pulley will never be dead tight when the bolt is tightened.Comment
-
Ya know, if this is in a keeper it would pay to put an original style one piece pulley on. If you pull the radiator, and remove the hand crank guide you only need to lift the engine a couple inches. Heck, I did it with 2 jack stands and a floor jack by meself.You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!Comment
-
And take the rear engine mount loose and remove the throttle linkage at the back of the engine.Comment
-
I'm not sure what you mean, Tom. Everything seemed to go in place without any issues, if I remember correctly. Is it possible that it was incorrectly installed and that is the reason for the failure? I have never had the oil pan off and as far as I know the slinger is there and It doesn't leak much oil.Comment
-
If the front of the pulley is flush with the front of the crank, the pulley cannot be tightened properly, and it will chuck around in there, and loosen and crack. It needs to stick forward a bit from the crank nose
If the slinger were left off, that sometimes will allow the pulley to be too far backComment
-
I've used engines with the two piece pulley and had no problems, but have heard some guys bought a two piece pulley, and the pulley bolt shoulder didn't stick out past the crankshaft, so the pulley never tightened when the crank bolt was tightened.Comment
-
IF your crankshaft stands "PROUD" of the pulley, "someone" sells a special washer to slip over the protruding crankshaft, EASY!!!----Call the suppliers' 800 numbers & ask. It's their "NICKEL"!
Bill TipsterComment
-
Here's a solid aluminum (no spokes) 2 piece pulley from a spare crankshaft I have.
The first picture shows how the pulley stands just a bit beyond the crankshaft.
The second picture shows the wide notch to engage the two parts. It also shows very unusual wear in the seal area of the sleeve. I'm thinking someone must have turned grooves on the lathe, thinking they would improve the seal.
004.JPG
007.JPGComment
-
Aluminum? I've never seen aluminum where there was a seal surface.Comment
-
Yikes! that is weird. Not sure aluminum is the best choice thereComment
-
Maybe the mains were gone and the crank was floating.. lol just sayinComment
-
I have another aluminum 2 piece and the sleeve has a deep worn smooth rounded area where the rope seal rides.Originally posted by tbirdtbird View Post
These odd grooves are so evenly spaced, I'm sure someone cut them on a lathe. I could make a new sleeve if I ever use this again.Comment
-
I see, thanx for the info and pictures. On the question of the possible missing oil slinger, would it be possible to tell without dropping the pan?Comment
-
Yes you can. I just measured the sleeve depth on my original pulley, and it's 2.2825", so if I measured the depth of the end of the crankshaft to the oil slinger, I'd expect to measure about .020" less than this, so the crank bolt tightens against the pulley, and not the crankshaft. I'd expect the oil slinger to be about .050" thick, so if it's missing, then I'd expect my the depth to be about .030" more than my pulley depth, or about 2.3125".Originally posted by JtownJoe View Post
Use the depth part of your vernier caliper to measure through the narrow space past the rope seal.Comment
-
Great info Tom. This gives me something to check out. Thanx. And thanx to all who took the time to reply!Comment
-
Am thinking of changing out the front 1 piece pulley. We used to break off the c.i. spokes to allow removal without removing the radiator, etc. I have a 2 piece pulley in the parts stash that appears well made but also researched that Sacramento Vintage Ford sells a threaded 2 piece that may be less prone to breakage, etc. Has anyone had experience with the latter, putting aside that some owners ...07-17-2021, 08:18 PM -
The Model A shop working on my A called, prefers to install a 2 piece Crank Pulley.
Searched here and seems the 2 piece can have an issue if it can not be tightened down correctly. The fix is a spacer washer.
So if tightened down properly are there any issues? Or do I insisted on the left hand threaded 2 piece Crank Pulley?
Seems to me if there is an issue...02-22-2019, 10:15 PM -
I told my 87 year old buddy I would put a new radiator in his 30 coupe which has overheated all summer. Of course one thing leads to another. With the radiator removed it is clear to see the crankshaft pulley is broken. Is this a one or two piece pulley and will it come off without raising the engine? Thanks, Art...09-27-2019, 12:58 PM -
Ok boys and girls, here is one I have not seen in my 50+ years of playing around with the Model A. It is a 2 piece crank pulley, but as you can see, it is not like the normal 2 piece. The pic on the left is the back of the pulley and the 4 indexing nibs for lack of a better word. The pic on the right is the end of the crank with a collar around the actual crank and the 4 indexing detentes.
...You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 2 photos.06-09-2017, 05:55 PM -
What do you use to pull the crankshaft pulley? 3 arm gear puller?03-22-2018, 05:24 PM -
In the most recent issue of the Restorer (May/June) that just arrived there is a story about the failure of a new one-piece crank pulley.
You can see from the pictures that the failure involved the slot for the woodruff key, and there were new splits forming from what remained of the slot.
The presenters seemed to be somewhat mystified as to what could have caused this, and no explanation...05-03-2019, 12:47 PM -
As most of you either know or a figured out, I'm working on 3 cars at once, my 1930 Coupe, My 30 Town Sedan, and my 1929 Blindback. The earlier mentioned 29 has the electrical problems. The Town Sedan I want to sell. I still do a little work to it. And my Coupe, which is what this is about. Yesterday, I went to see a guy for some parts. One of which was a crankshaft pulley I needed. So Don brings...09-26-2021, 02:16 PM -
I'm in the middle of replacing my radiator and water pump and crank pulley. The nut on the old pulley is not breaking loose. I've put the crank on a jack stand to keep the motor from turning over but still won't break loose. Any ideas? It is lefty lucy isn't it? Thanks Bob05-19-2019, 11:40 AM
-
I can grab a fan blade and turn the crank pully a half inch back and forth without moving the pully ratchet nut. In other words the ratchet nut does not seem tight against the pully. The pully was replaced by the engine builder at my request. It was originally a 2 piece pully. Also the front seal leaks oil big time. Engine has a new Burlington crank if that makes any difference..png "sad")
03-14-2021, 01:59 PM -
How many different pulley crank bolts are there...shapes and sizes? By month / year. I didn't find it in the "Book"..
Thanks,
Dudley05-31-2018, 11:24 AM
Comment