Crank pulley

[Bob Giles]

Is the two piece as good as the original?

[Big hammer]

I replaced a two piece with an repop original, the two piece was worn out, I feel for not being tight enough. The only difference between the two types is saving radiator removal for future work.

[Dave in MD]

I have seen the two piece pulleys either have broken tangs where they mate together or have some run out on the pulley itself. I would only replace it with a one piece pulley.

[Mitch]

I have heard good things about the Bill Stipe one piece pulley.

[CarlG]

First hand knowledge-- Bill Stipe's one piece crank pulleys are great. You will never need another one.

[Mitch]

Carl, do they have the stock appearance?

[CarlG]

Mitch,
Bill's pulleys are machined from solid stock and do not have spokes. I had a 2 piece before so I don't know what an original looks like.

[Mitch]

My last motor is an AER insert and it came with the two piece pulley.. just sayin!

[Bob Giles]

This motor is a AER and it broke the pulley. AER is sending me a two piece to replace the broken one piece. I might try and find a one piece.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I've had a couple engines with the two piece pulley, and never had a problem with them.
I like the serviceability of the two piece pulley, but usually will install a one piece on my permanent engines for my cars, just to be more original.

[JtownJoe]

Another 2 piece pulley failure. I was changing the fan belt and noticed quite a bit of play in the fan and upon further inspection I discovered the Bratton's crank pulley I put on about 3 years ago has pieces of the outer half casting broken off at the interlock notch. I will try the LH threaded ones that Bill mentioned to avoid a radiator tear out until the cold weather hits. Bummer!!

[sphanna]

I had to replace my pulley and ordered the 2 piece as pictured by JtownJoe. I have had it with the 2 piece. The new ordered 2 piece failed in about 700 miles. The supplier replaced it and in about 400 miles it failed too. Took the one piece original pulley off a spare engine and had no more problems. I found another failing pulley on a friends coupe and we replaced it with the left hand threaded 2 piece. It is a good design and no problems. The one as pictured is junk in my opinion and should not be used. Get the original one piece or the threaded 2 piece.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Another 2 piece pulley failure. I was changing the fan belt and noticed quite a bit of play in the fan and upon further inspection I discovered the Bratton's crank pulley I put on about 3 years ago has pieces of the outer half casting broken off at the interlock notch. I will try the LH threaded ones that Bill mentioned to avoid a radiator tear out until the cold weather hits. Bummer!!

Is the oil slinger in place?
Did the pulley stand a bit proud of the crankshaft? It must, or the pulley will never be dead tight when the bolt is tightened.

[DaWizard]

Ya know, if this is in a keeper it would pay to put an original style one piece pulley on. If you pull the radiator, and remove the hand crank guide you only need to lift the engine a couple inches. Heck, I did it with 2 jack stands and a floor jack by meself.

[Dennis]

And take the rear engine mount loose and remove the throttle linkage at the back of the engine.

[JtownJoe]

I'm not sure what you mean, Tom. Everything seemed to go in place without any issues, if I remember correctly. Is it possible that it was incorrectly installed and that is the reason for the failure? I have never had the oil pan off and as far as I know the slinger is there and It doesn't leak much oil.

[tbirdtbird]

If the front of the pulley is flush with the front of the crank, the pulley cannot be tightened properly, and it will chuck around in there, and loosen and crack. It needs to stick forward a bit from the crank nose

If the slinger were left off, that sometimes will allow the pulley to be too far back

[Tom Wesenberg]

I've used engines with the two piece pulley and had no problems, but have heard some guys bought a two piece pulley, and the pulley bolt shoulder didn't stick out past the crankshaft, so the pulley never tightened when the crank bolt was tightened.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

IF your crankshaft stands "PROUD" of the pulley, "someone" sells a special washer to slip over the protruding crankshaft, EASY!!!----Call the suppliers' 800 numbers & ask. It's their "NICKEL"!
Bill Tipster

[Tom Wesenberg]

Here's a solid aluminum (no spokes) 2 piece pulley from a spare crankshaft I have.
The first picture shows how the pulley stands just a bit beyond the crankshaft.
The second picture shows the wide notch to engage the two parts. It also shows very unusual wear in the seal area of the sleeve. I'm thinking someone must have turned grooves on the lathe, thinking they would improve the seal.

004.JPG
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[Dennis]

Aluminum? I've never seen aluminum where there was a seal surface.

[tbirdtbird]

Yikes! that is weird. Not sure aluminum is the best choice there

[Mitch]

Maybe the mains were gone and the crank was floating.. lol just sayin

[Tom Wesenberg]

Yikes! that is weird. Not sure aluminum is the best choice there

I have another aluminum 2 piece and the sleeve has a deep worn smooth rounded area where the rope seal rides.

These odd grooves are so evenly spaced, I'm sure someone cut them on a lathe. I could make a new sleeve if I ever use this again.

[JtownJoe]

I see, thanx for the info and pictures. On the question of the possible missing oil slinger, would it be possible to tell without dropping the pan?

[Tom Wesenberg]

I see, thanx for the info and pictures. On the question of the possible missing oil slinger, would it be possible to tell without dropping the pan?

Yes you can. I just measured the sleeve depth on my original pulley, and it's 2.2825", so if I measured the depth of the end of the crankshaft to the oil slinger, I'd expect to measure about .020" less than this, so the crank bolt tightens against the pulley, and not the crankshaft. I'd expect the oil slinger to be about .050" thick, so if it's missing, then I'd expect my the depth to be about .030" more than my pulley depth, or about 2.3125".

Use the depth part of your vernier caliper to measure through the narrow space past the rope seal.

[JtownJoe]

Great info Tom. This gives me something to check out. Thanx. And thanx to all who took the time to reply!