Is the two piece as good as the original?
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Crank pulley
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I have heard good things about the Bill Stipe one piece pulley.
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First hand knowledge-- Bill Stipe's one piece crank pulleys are great. You will never need another one.Alaskan A's
Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska
Model A Ford Club of America
Model A Restorers Club
Antique Automobile Club of America
Mullins Owners Club
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Carl, do they have the stock appearance?
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Mitch,
Bill's pulleys are machined from solid stock and do not have spokes. I had a 2 piece before so I don't know what an original looks like.Alaskan A's
Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska
Model A Ford Club of America
Model A Restorers Club
Antique Automobile Club of America
Mullins Owners Club
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Another 2 piece pulley failure. I was changing the fan belt and noticed quite a bit of play in the fan and upon further inspection I discovered the Bratton's crank pulley I put on about 3 years ago has pieces of the outer half casting broken off at the interlock notch. I will try the LH threaded ones that Bill mentioned to avoid a radiator tear out until the cold weather hits. Bummer!!You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 3 photos.
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I had to replace my pulley and ordered the 2 piece as pictured by JtownJoe. I have had it with the 2 piece. The new ordered 2 piece failed in about 700 miles. The supplier replaced it and in about 400 miles it failed too. Took the one piece original pulley off a spare engine and had no more problems. I found another failing pulley on a friends coupe and we replaced it with the left hand threaded 2 piece. It is a good design and no problems. The one as pictured is junk in my opinion and should not be used. Get the original one piece or the threaded 2 piece.
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Originally posted by JtownJoe View PostAnother 2 piece pulley failure. I was changing the fan belt and noticed quite a bit of play in the fan and upon further inspection I discovered the Bratton's crank pulley I put on about 3 years ago has pieces of the outer half casting broken off at the interlock notch. I will try the LH threaded ones that Bill mentioned to avoid a radiator tear out until the cold weather hits. Bummer!!
Did the pulley stand a bit proud of the crankshaft? It must, or the pulley will never be dead tight when the bolt is tightened.
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Ya know, if this is in a keeper it would pay to put an original style one piece pulley on. If you pull the radiator, and remove the hand crank guide you only need to lift the engine a couple inches. Heck, I did it with 2 jack stands and a floor jack by meself.You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!
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I'm not sure what you mean, Tom. Everything seemed to go in place without any issues, if I remember correctly. Is it possible that it was incorrectly installed and that is the reason for the failure? I have never had the oil pan off and as far as I know the slinger is there and It doesn't leak much oil.
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If the front of the pulley is flush with the front of the crank, the pulley cannot be tightened properly, and it will chuck around in there, and loosen and crack. It needs to stick forward a bit from the crank nose
If the slinger were left off, that sometimes will allow the pulley to be too far back
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Here's a solid aluminum (no spokes) 2 piece pulley from a spare crankshaft I have.
The first picture shows how the pulley stands just a bit beyond the crankshaft.
The second picture shows the wide notch to engage the two parts. It also shows very unusual wear in the seal area of the sleeve. I'm thinking someone must have turned grooves on the lathe, thinking they would improve the seal.
004.JPG
007.JPG
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Maybe the mains were gone and the crank was floating.. lol just sayin
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Originally posted by tbirdtbird View PostYikes! that is weird. Not sure aluminum is the best choice there
These odd grooves are so evenly spaced, I'm sure someone cut them on a lathe. I could make a new sleeve if I ever use this again.
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Originally posted by JtownJoe View PostI see, thanx for the info and pictures. On the question of the possible missing oil slinger, would it be possible to tell without dropping the pan?
Use the depth part of your vernier caliper to measure through the narrow space past the rope seal.
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by DaWizardOk boys and girls, here is one I have not seen in my 50+ years of playing around with the Model A. It is a 2 piece crank pulley, but as you can see, it is not like the normal 2 piece. The pic on the left is the back of the pulley and the 4 indexing nibs for lack of a better word. The pic on the right is the end of the crank with a collar around the actual crank and the 4 indexing detentes.
...You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 2 photos.-
Channel: Model A Forum
06-09-2017, 06:55 PM -
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by dmdeatonWhat do you use to pull the crankshaft pulley? 3 arm gear puller?
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Channel: Model A Forum
03-22-2018, 06:24 PM -
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How many different pulley crank bolts are there...shapes and sizes? By month / year. I didn't find it in the "Book"..
Thanks,
Dudley-
Channel: Model A Fine Point & Authenticity
05-31-2018, 12:24 PM -
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by JtownJoeSo I got the new 2 pc. crank pulley, (threaded type) to avoid pulling the radiator, and I am removing the cam shaft cover and then dropping the pan at least enough to install the new oil slinger. I am assuming there isn't one on the crankshaft now, since the old one broke at the offsets and the ratchet nut was very tight on the pulley, is there anything else I should know? I have the Les Andrews...
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Channel: Model A Forum
10-21-2017, 04:11 PM -
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by canadiannon authentic . But would anyone have approx diameter and width of a pulley to use on a GM Alternator. I can order one from vendor but because I am on the ass hole of the planet its 3 weeks delivery , just wondering if guys are using a pulley from some other application that I can get locally. thanks
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Channel: Model A Forum
04-10-2018, 09:39 AM -
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by canadiananyone have any knowledge of pulley to retro fit on 12 volt G.M. alternator? Brattons has a pulley part # 15380 , I enquired if it was in stock ,which it is but they said they wouldn't guarantee it would fit a G.M Alternator....
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Channel: Model A Forum
06-14-2018, 04:58 PM -
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by Chevmn56Started putting the generator back together after detailing it, correct bolts etc i bought a Generator pulley bolt from Brattons, the description says that the 30-31 generator takes the big headed black bolt and black star washer......but in trying to put the pulley back on with the new bolt and washer, the bolt isn't long enough. The generator i rebuilt is period correct for the A ......is there...
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Channel: Model A Forum
01-26-2018, 03:56 PM -
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by FixitphilI need some pointers on replacing a crank pulley. I have a two-piece now. Which is best 1 or 2 piece? I need to replace the front crank/pan oil seal also. What parts do I need?
Phil-
Channel: Model A Forum
04-17-2018, 12:22 AM -
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by plyforWe used the new teflon type rope seals on a new motor with about 100 miles on it. Nice drip which runs down the oil pan front and no leaks elsewhere. It was put in according to all posted info. and greased very slightly. The leak is blackish oil. Is this normal with this type of seal. We ran out of the old style rope and the 2 piece pulley looks ok. Any suggestions ?...
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Channel: Model A Forum
10-23-2017, 11:23 AM -
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by Denis4x4Getting a funny noise from the engine in my avatar, so I removed the front cover and discovered an aftermarket pulley with a sloppy keyway had just about destroyed the woodruff key. Finally removed it and got a new key that got stuck due to the damage incurred earlier. Decided to put the car in the storage garage with a box of parts and decide later on pulling the engine and having the crank checked...
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Channel: Early Modified
06-03-2018, 10:34 AM -
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