Just wondering if I can buy .020 or if I can find .010 rings for a .005 bore + (have the used .005 pistons already) ? I would ask Tom, but I might be doing that to much already Thanks, Pat
I am curious how anyone ever found .005 over pistons, that is a new one on me
don't set the top ring too tight....we use .022 here, that ring is exposed to the max heat,
that is another area I differ from the Les book.
I have seen hot motors lock because of rings too tight.
They expand as the motor warms up, so your starting gaps close up a lot
Thanks for the input Tbird. I'm not sure when this engine was rebuilt or if the factory would use .005 pistons in some instances ?? Truck was purchased from a farm auction in 1961 and sat in a shop the whole time. There is plenty of gunk on the engine, so it would have been an early rebuild I would say. Pat
How do I select the correct ring set to buy for my Model A with a Model B engine? STD size or is there a way to determine which ones are the best size to replace current rings? Do I have to pull the engine to check the cylinder walls with a bore gauge or just pull the head and measure each with the gauge? I assume I have to pull her anyway to do the work anyway. Lost compression across the cylinders with 3 or 4 low and high differences. I will start with replacing the head gasket and look at lapping valves and seats next but assume rings may be shot too. Still learning. Not a mechanic.
Pretty easy to do, if you have the tool. There is some info on making your own tester. I tried making one with little success, just buy or rent one. Some of the auto parts stores rent the tool.
This test will let you know if you have a valve problem, rings, or some thing else.
To answer your specific question... If you need to do the rings, I would go to a machine shop that does engines and have the bore measured by them. There is a lot to it, more than just one measurement, plus they will have the right tool to make the measurement. They can also tell you if the thing needs to be re-bored or if a hone will do the job.
Lost compression across the cylinders with 3 or 4 low and high differences
You need to do a proper organized diagnosis, before tearing anything apart. Otherwise, you're just going in blind. You did not mention the actual compression readings. What symptoms were you experiencing?
3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible." Mitch's Auto Service ctr
Thanks for the info on the leak down tester. I will give that a shot. I bought a rebuilt 1932 Zenith Carb and after inspection, found that the upper casting was glued together with JB Weld it appears then painted over but cracked in half. I got taken for a ride on that purchase. Hard to tell these days. I am thinking that that created a major loss of manifold pressure. Replacing with my old Zenith that is missing the Power Jet tube that nobody sells. I'll do the leak test too.
3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible." Mitch's Auto Service ctr
I can't remember if I heard or read something about reseating rings in a somewhat tired engine. The use of baking soda or borax or a gentle abrasive as such would reseat the rings in a tired engine.
What, if anything have you learned or heard over your lifetime about helping out a tired engine?
im tearing an engine down, and it has ford .045" pistons with center lock wrist pins.my question is regarding the rings. The upper slot has a .012" spacer so it can use the same size ring as the middle slot. Yes, different size slots. The middle has one inch pieces stacked underneath the ring, so as to push the ring tighter to the cylinder wall. Whether these were originally one solid ring,...
Well, got the pistons and con rods out of the block today as I am finished for now on the "craft shed" for the kidlet.
Much to my dismay, none, nada, zip con rods have shims on the big ends!
There is also something I have not seen before, pistons with not just one compression ring, not two, but three compression rings!! Plus the normal oil ring!!
Pictured on the left is an old school Model A piston with an archaic design from the '20s, '30s, '40s.
On the right is a Model A piston of modern design, a design adapted by all car manufacturers many decades ago. The skirt is short and the rings narrow. Inspect the features of the two yourself; you need not be an engineer. You only need common sense to answer the following 3 questions:...
Update for those who have helped with suggestions on my overheating problem:
I took the block and pistons into Portland Engine Rebuilders today and told them they needed to hone to .0045. I explained that it all seems to have come down to the issue of the sleeves not transferring heat like a simple bore of the block, combined with the already questionable water distribution in the block....
I'm looking at grinding/cutting my valve seats for new style valves. What would be the proper grinder/cutter to buy ? There is also light pitting between the int. & exh. valves. Any help on doing this would be appreciated. Thanks, Pat
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