installing new front float-a-motor

[Tom Bellfoy]

Tuesday I will be installing new front and rear float-a-motor mounts in my model A truck. It would appear that most owners install just the rear mounts, however I purchased both front and rear sets with plans to install both sets. Motor is already installed with the steel mounts.
Has anyone here ever installed the front mounts and if so how high would the motor have to be raised in order to properly install the front mount (raising enough to drill the holes). From the instructions it states the front cross member must be drilled to accept the bolts to secure same.
Thanks

[DaWizard]

Tom, first, Welcome to the site.

It would help if you would say what year your truck is, and which front mount you have.

If you have the real early '28 where the front mount is the actual front cross member and you want to change that to the FaM, I personally would recommend removing the front cross member and saving that as you will need to remove about 4" off the top of that to make room for the FaM. The late '28/29 front cross member already comes lowered and drilled for the wishbone style spring mount.

If you already have the wishbone style front motor mount, I don't think you will need to do any modification to or remove the front mount at all, as it is already mounted on springs.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Follow the instructions, EXCEPT, drill the crossmember holes 3/4" or vibrations from the long bolt will be transmitted DIRECTLY into the crossmember & it'll be as noisy as stock mounting!!! TRUST ME!!---FORGET the rear mount thingy, it's USELESS!!---I'll probably catch HELL for sayin' that, BUT I can take it!!!
Bill Quiet

[Guest]

Tuesday I will be installing new front and rear float-a-motor mounts in my model A truck. It would appear that most owners install just the rear mounts, however I purchased both front and rear sets with plans to install both sets. Motor is already installed with the steel mounts.
Has anyone here ever installed the front mounts and if so how high would the motor have to be raised in order to properly install the front mount (raising enough to drill the holes). From the instructions it states the front cross member must be drilled to accept the bolts to secure same.
Thanks

Well, let me be the first to ask "why"?
You would be a lot better off to use the original parts and system, IMO.
Model A owners like to buy all the things offered in the catalogs.
What are you hoping this does for you?

I hope it works out for you. On my coupe, removing the FAM and putting it back to stock was a welcome improvement, and it will not matter what crankshaft or flywheel you have.

[Tom Bellfoy]

The truck is a 31 model A with non-balanced crankshaft and original flywheel. I have been in two of my model A friends cars who both have the rear only float-a-motor set-up and they swear by the improvement of reducing engine vibration along with lowering the sound. With that and having read many posts on the barn I have concluded it should help to reduce the vibration and sound level. I am not a model A owner who purchases all the things in the catalog like you mentioned, I can think of a lots more pleasurable things to purchase other than FAM's but my wife wont drive with me in the truck until it stops vibrating her fillings out. I think its all Bill W's fault !!

[DaWizard]

I would say you will not need to replace the front mount. If you replace the rear frame mounts and install the far rear FaM you should be in good shape.

IF it doesn't satisfy you, then it would be no big problem to replace the front mount, but for now, it is already spring mounted.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

On "some other" site, I took All kinds of B.S, when I talked about FAMS!
I meticiously typed ALL the info on how to install them properly!! I installed front & rear FAMs on Minerva, DIDN'T use the rear mount thingy, added a flexible exhaust hanger & Minerva was like a DIFFERENT CAR!!! With ALL stock mounts, it sounds like you're "tearing up" the engine, past 45MPH!! At 60-65, Minerva was So smooth & quiet, that most folks thought I had some "modern" exotic engine. Partly because of my UNIQUE exhaust system.
NOW, I've blown off STEAM & I DO feel better---LOL--The Dog: AGREES:p
I NEVER post helps that have not worked for me, PERSONALLY!
Bill Famsmooth

[Tom Wesenberg]

I would also stick with original mounts.
My 28 has original solid mounts front and rear, and it seems fine to me. I don't have any more vibration that any other Model A's I've been in.

[tbirdtbird]

OK, two things have not come up here yet.
1) if the timing is too advanced you will get more vibration than you should. Assuming an all stock motor, be sure it is timed correctly in the first place (many are not), then never run the lever more than 3/4 of the way down
2) Purdy has always stressed not to have the front stock mount too tight. You are supposed to only have the nut on just enough to get the cotter pin in. I have made sure of these 2 issues on several cars I have worked on and the vibration was reduced a lot.

My nephew for some reason decided he wanted the FAMs and installed them front and rear. He was sorry. We left the rears in, removed the miserable front mount, installed an OEM style yoke mount with the nut as above, and about 50% of his vibration went away

[DaWizard]

So, if I understand this correctly, your nephew finished with the stock front wishbone, the center FAM and the trans FAM and it settled down with that?

[tbirdtbird]

he never did install the trans FAM, he threw it in the woods. Counterweighted crank, head is Snyder 6.0, max timing is 20°, motor is smooth as silk. Would not smooth out until he tossed the front FAM in the bushes

[Dennis]

Judging Standards I've read you will get points taken away for having a FAM. Nothing on your Model A gets modified beyond unbolting the FAM and installing the original mounts unless you cut the tongue off of your transmission piece on a 28-29. So you might want to locate that piece before you go cutting the tongue off. The front mount to me is not needed due to the way the original mount is on some 28 and most all 29 and up with the yoke and springs. I have a FAM and I still have the original mounts should I ever feel the need to put them back.

[DaWizard]

I just had another thought about your need to raise the motor to drill the holes for the front FaM.

You could drill them from UNDER the car since the mounting area needed is behind the spring perch at the front of the cross member. No need to do more than remove the original wishbone mount and the motor doesn't need to raise to do that.

[Mitch]

Worn out stock rear motor mount to frame pads can cause bad harmonics . If after removing the worn out stock pads and replacing them with FAM's helps the vibrations then one gets a false sense that the FAM's were the actual cure when in reality the worn out pads were the actual culprit. Just something to think about.

i agree with some of the other replies to leave the stock front mount and make sure it's not pulled down to tight. Just catch the cotterpin as tbird mentioned. You can always do that mount at a later date

The FAM set up does make it easier to pull the motor compared to the stock configuration. IMO.
I had a car in the shop, and the crank hole would not line up due to the FAM's were installed upside down so be aware of that. I believe the newer sets being produced today are marked..

keep us posted on your decisions and progress

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

After drilling the crossmember holes, enlarge them to 3/4", from BELOW, using a UNI-BIT.
Bill Harborfreight

[CarlG]

Has anyone installed the front FAM while leaving the original mounts on the rear?

[George Miller]

If you have a lot of vibration you probably have a engine that was not balanced correctly. That fam front mount is not the way to go. If you do use the fam mount make sure you use the one that supports the rear of the engine. It goes against the crossmember. Lots of guys do not use it, but it lets the rear of the engine sag, if you do not use it. If you engine was done right it will not have a lot of vibration.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

I don't know why I even bothered to get into the FAM discussion, AGAIN??---BLEAHH!
Bill Overandout

[DaWizard]

Hey Bill, I read and cypher what you write. I know that if you hadn't done it already you wouldn't type the response.

Don't get pissed, just take a deep breath and chill with da pooch. Things will get better, and remember, there are smart folk here which gives this place a breath of fresh air.

Remember Bill, folk here don't just post for the fun of it, I know they usually have something to say.

[Big hammer]

Bill your insight here is need as always ! Your experiences are needed to help ward off naysayers. And I'm not bad mouthing the purest, their input is also needed here! To all please post what you feel,know, your experience and keep VFF good for ALL !

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

We ALL know Model As vibrate like a BITCH, I shared my PROVEN way of helping the vibrating immensely. If some don't want any part of it, I don't REALLY give a Rats' Ass!
I understand that Purists don't want any part of it & that's UNDERSTANDABLE! I highly respect those guys in their endeavors!
Bill W.

[Mitch]

It's great to have all these opinions for and against the FAM. That's what makes a forum such a great tool. I bet Tom the OP appreciates all the advice and this thread will help many others in the future.

[CarlG]

Bill,
I am considering FAMs in my pickup. I already have the front, just haven't convinced myself on the whole enchilada. I am leaning that way due primarily to your recommendations. I did replace the rubber on the original mounts but it didn't seem to help that much.

[Tom Wesenberg]

A good original engine doesn't vibrate too much, but it's too bad Ford didn't use counterweights, as that would help smooth it out more and add lift to the babbit, especially the center babbit. I've been in Model A's that can shake your teeth out, and I've been in very smooth running A's, so as George said, if it vibrates too much, it may not have been balanced correctly.

[A29tudor]

About balance. The first engine I had balanced in Southern California, we found the crank was out of balanced in the factory. Shop had to fill in the drilled holes with weld and drill out the opposite side to bring it into balance. Wow, one got by.

[Tom Bellfoy]

We are all different and thats what makes the world go around. different strokes for different folks. This and the other forum have yielded many different options and possible causes of vibration and even the harmonics. My Model A is a driver and looks good from twenty feet away. I will never own a purebred Model A Ford and I have no interest in a points car. I am not a young guy so Im not looking for speed, I'm looking for comfort. Its so easy to get off topic and only one of you have come close to giving me the answer to my original question. Tuesday the front and rear FAM's will be going in along with the extra piece at the back of the transmission and I will reply back giving my honest opinion as soon as can give it my personal evaluation.

[Mitch]

Harmonics has always been a issue and still continue today. How many moderns have we seen with weights on the exhaust system, or under the steering wheel pad. Huge weights set on rubber on the driveshaft or the harmonic balancer pulley. If you remove some of this stuff i bet it would feel worse than a Model A

[DaWizard]

Right you are Mitch, take a look at the small block 400. If you as much as change any of the parts on the crank, the harmonic balancer, or fly wheel, the whole crank train is lost as they are all balanced together!

[tbirdtbird]

we thought you were looking for less vibration. This might be possible without the FAMs was the jist on a few responses. If the front yoke is overtightened, I guarantee the motor will vibrate like crazy. Would seem logical to check that first and go from there. The front mount is more of a stabilizer than a mount.
It will be interesting to find out how you make out

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

IT'S SIMPLE, IF you could hold a RUNNING Model A engine in your arms, it would shake like a bitch!--SO, when you put it back in, why not mount it on some nice RUBBER biscuits, to keep that shakin' OUT of the chassis & body?
IF you're a PURIST, please IGNORE my rambling! (LOVE you Guys!)
Bill Quiet

[Mitch]

I just replaced a couple engine mounts in a Honda Odyssey. They are electronic mounts that cost 800 each, i wonder if we could incorporate them into an A. :

[DaWizard]

*shudders*

[tbirdtbird]

inquiring minds need to know what an electronic mount is.
What is next, ethanol mounts?
Speaking of ethanol, it is time for some right now!

[Mitch]

Here are the schematics

[Dennis]

Modern cars .... Hondas ... make me shutter!! Glad I'm retired even though most of my career was construction equipment. Most of construction equipment nowadays is made overseas. What a nightmare!!