Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Service Bulletin Tips

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Service Bulletin Tips

    I know most of us have the Bulletins and thumb through it now and then. If your like me i usually don't open it to often and forget about some of the things contained in it. Since we have been doing the daily JS question i have been opening the book to read a little more about the question that was asked that day. I figured it would be a good idea to post something from the SB's every now and then. Feel free to post other tips to this thread, but if ya think it's a bad idea i'm fine with that too.

    This is on page 338 and it goes over a convenient way to ck and or adjust the valves by having certain ones on the lobe.





    D3BB97D5-D7FD-45E5-BE42-F3745571DE90.jpeg
    3 ~ Tudor's
    Henry Ford said
    "It's all nuts and bolts"


    Mitch's Auto Service ctr

  • #2
    Why does it say to put the park brake ON, before washin' the car? Are they afraid it will RUN AWAY, like when you TRY to wash your DOG
    Dad

    Comment


    • 2manycars
      2manycars commented
      Editing a comment
      Maybe they are afraid it will run you over as you lay under it and wash the underside of the fenders, thus tickleing the car.

  • #3
    I just reset my intake valve clearances using the FSB method, except with the head on I couldn't accurately measure the depth of the cylinders. This is the flaw in the method. It works accurately only if the head is off.

    Comment


    • #4
      Ray you can just put those particular valves shown on the high part of the lobes, then check the others that are mentioned. No need to measure in the cylinders
      3 ~ Tudor's
      Henry Ford said
      "It's all nuts and bolts"


      Mitch's Auto Service ctr

      Comment


      • #5
        Mitch, It was very difficult to tell exactly when I was on the high part of the lobe by only observing the lifters. I had originally adjusted all valves to .015 as Vince suggested, so to change the intakes I just rotated the engine till the corresponding exhaust valve measured .015. Then I knew I was in the right spot, and adjusted the relative intake.
        Last edited by Ray Horton; 12-01-2017, 01:33 PM.

        Comment


        • #6
          Originally posted by Ray Horton View Post
          Mitch, It was very difficult to tell exactly when I was on the high part of the lobe by only observing the lifters. I had originally adjusted all valves to .015 as Vince suggested, so to change the intakes I just rotated the engine till the corresponding exhaust valve measured .015. Then I knew I was in the right spot, and adjusted the relative intake.
          On Volvo push rod motors, on TDC# 1, adjust valves # 1-2-3 & skip 1---One turn & adjust the rear 3 & skip one. This "might" apply to a Model A???
          Dad Fargestrarder (Swedish slang for a car!)

          Comment


          • #7
            Both valves are fully closed and thus off the cam and ramps when any cyl is at TDC.
            That is when we adjust. We have to do one cyl at a time this way, but at least there is no guesswork.
            Depending on the cam, the exhaust does not begin to open until about 130°
            The paperwork that comes with the cam will tell you this number, but it will never be less than about 110-120°, which is a long way off from TDC

            I will look at the paperwork that came with my Stipe IB330 and post that number

            UPDATE
            A Stipe IB 330 cam has the exhaust opening at 124°
            The intake closes at 304° or more properly 664° of the full 720° cycle

            So, you are a long way off from either valve being open at compression TDC, ie zero degrees. In fact this is the furthest away you can ever be.

            Other cams will vary depending on duration/overlap but the concept will not change.
            As you know the Stipe IB330 closely resembles the Model B cam. Vince Falter at Ford Garage has a good table showing the various cam specs

            BTW you can determine TDC of each cylinder easily by looking at where the rotor is pointing
            Last edited by tbirdtbird; 12-01-2017, 10:05 PM.

            Comment


            • #8
              That is the way I do them also.

              Comment


              • #9
                Bill's Volvo method was the way I was taught by International Harvester. They published charts for all their different series of engines because which valves get adjusted when varies based on configuration of the ports. But the procedure remained the same on all 4 or 6 cylinder inline engines. Bring the engine to TDC and adjust half the valves, then one crank revolution to TDC again and adjust the other half.

                It always worked for me, but then my A doesn't have a TDC mark, so the other methods mentioned above are the way to go.

                Comment


                • tbirdtbird
                  tbirdtbird commented
                  Editing a comment
                  the amount of carry over of technique from motor to motor is gonna also depend on the firing order.

                  Not sure of the firing order of a 4-cyl IH, but it may not be the same as a Model A.
                  On an engine with more than 4-cyls it is nice to have a specific chart telling you when you can adjust a bunch of valves at once, that is quicker than the one-cyl at a time method I described above. For a 6- or 8-cyl motor such a chart would be a nice time-saver

              • #10
                The only issue I have with the service bulletin on this is the lash suggested is too tight and you are gonna burn your valves.
                I know Vince suggests .015 for both.
                I was told by an old timer long ago to use .013 for both. Have used that number on many cars for thousands of miles and never an issue
                .013, .015, it may not matter, but the SB number for some reason is def. too tight

                Comment


                • #11
                  Les red book calls for .013 intake & .015 exhaust
                  3 ~ Tudor's
                  Henry Ford said
                  "It's all nuts and bolts"


                  Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                  Comment


                  • DaWizard
                    DaWizard commented
                    Editing a comment
                    It's got both bases covered!

                  • tbirdtbird
                    tbirdtbird commented
                    Editing a comment
                    I could live with that

                  • George Miller
                    George Miller commented
                    Editing a comment
                    013 & 015 is what I use my reason is the exhaust is going to run a lot hotter than the intake on hard pulls, there fore will expand more so the valve stem will grow longer on the exhaust. Plus it will pound in the seat more over time.

                • #12
                  I got a chuckle out of this one. Maybe Tom can chime in on the proper way to remove and handle an armature.


                  image_4720.jpg



                  3 ~ Tudor's
                  Henry Ford said
                  "It's all nuts and bolts"


                  Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                  Comment


                  • Mitch
                    Mitch commented
                    Editing a comment
                    I put this armature post originally on the wrong service bulletin thread.

                • #13
                  You buy a 1" long fine thread bolt and screw it all the way in, then use a puller or press against the bolt. Never hammer or press against the taper.

                  Comment


                  • #14
                    Amazing what people will do just so they don't have to pull the puller out and claim how fast they can do a job.

                    Comment


                    • Mitch
                      Mitch commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Were the Ford factory techs flat rate or hourly?

                    • Dennis
                      Dennis commented
                      Editing a comment
                      When I worked at a construction equipment dealer I'd always try to pin the factory service reps down on some of their SPG, standard pricing guide, hours to do some of the jobs. I'd tell them let me guess you guys have a cart with all and only the tools needed to perform the job and have the work in front of them. They'd always get red in the face after awhile. We knew better...

                    • Mitch
                      Mitch commented
                      Editing a comment
                      I hear ya Dennis
                      Before i opened my own shop i worked flat rate for a few Ford dealers. One of my specialties is automatic transmissions and they would pay around 12 hours to R&I and overhaul. I was banging them out complete in 5 hours. Ford gets a copy of my job time punches for all warranty work performed. They accused me of fraud and not doing the job properly. They had an auditor come in to watch me do one and needless to say he left with a foot up his butt. They never bothered me again after that i had carte blanche.

                    • tbirdtbird
                      tbirdtbird commented
                      Editing a comment
                      You show'em, Mitch.
                      Obviously there is a bell curve for speed and skill of mechanics like there is for every other job calling, and you were on the high end of the curve, total surprise there!!

                      If they weren't done right they'd sure as hell be back in the shop in a heartbeat

                      Automatics scare me to death, have never had one opened and don't intend on starting now. The only thing I know for certain is that the insides must be hospital squeaky clean or the valve body will not do its job

                      When you are ready, stop by and we'll rip the aircraft carrier sized 4-speed out of my '59 Caddy and you can teach me. It is like 2 Powerglides in series. I have no idea how ppl can learn this stuff
                      Last edited by tbirdtbird; 12-03-2017, 11:50 AM.

                  • #15
                    Mitch, bet you bought VASELINE, in the BIG JARS--LOL
                    Friend, John, did an AUTOMATIC, using Lubri-Plate on ALL the sliding stuff, he had to tear it down COMPLETELY & clean ALL that CRAP out! It even formed BLOBS, on the filter screen!
                    KDad Slick

                    Comment


                    • Mitch
                      Mitch commented
                      Editing a comment
                      I did and always the baby fresh smelly kind... Later in life i started using assembly lube

                  • #16
                    POP
                    That is a huge NONO.
                    You know how many mechanics i have seen do a trans service, and then wipe the pan out with a shop rag after cleaning it. All that lint goes right into the filter screen and then the valve body.
                    3 ~ Tudor's
                    Henry Ford said
                    "It's all nuts and bolts"


                    Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                    Comment


                    • BILL WILLIAMSON
                      BILL WILLIAMSON commented
                      Editing a comment
                      And how many "mechanics" polish valve body valves with crocus cloth & remove its' SHARP edges, that help keep the bores clean!
                      Automatic transmission overhauls require a "surgeons' " skill!

                  • #17
                    Originally posted by tbirdtbird View Post
                    The only issue I have with the service bulletin on this is the lash suggested is too tight and you are gonna burn your valves.
                    I know Vince suggests .015 for both.
                    I was told by an old timer long ago to use .013 for both. Have used that number on many cars for thousands of miles and never an issue
                    .013, .015, it may not matter, but the SB number for some reason is def. too tight
                    I know this is down the thread aways, but this is what Specialty Motor Cams have on the tag for a touring B 340 cam. Yeah... .012" lash on both intake and exhaust.
                    You do not have permission to view this gallery.
                    This gallery has 1 photos.

                    Comment


                    • tbirdtbird
                      tbirdtbird commented
                      Editing a comment
                      yep, saw that, too tight for me.

                      I am at .013 all around and it is quiet

                    • Dennis
                      Dennis commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Same here. 1,000 miles after runnin and mine were about .014" I might have set them loose when the cam, lifters, and valves and seats were new.

                  • #18
                    Make sure your your coil wire is installed correctly.




                    8660EFE0-DCDA-4044-9C42-15512A4EEA29.jpeg


                    21624FAD-80E4-4C44-AA79-A1C6B5AF9D3A.jpeg
                    3 ~ Tudor's
                    Henry Ford said
                    "It's all nuts and bolts"


                    Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                    Comment


                    • #19
                      Good point, post 18. As mentioned in other posts, we've turned our (new) oil filled coil with the terminals up supposedly for better secondary wiring oil enscapsulation. This requires a longer coil wire and boots installed (though not fine point) to keep the wire snug..

                      Comment


                      • #20
                        We always hear about using magnets or grease on the ring gear. Has anyone tried this method?



                        05AF7C34-A9C1-416A-B75D-48F686578B01.jpeg



                        3 ~ Tudor's
                        Henry Ford said
                        "It's all nuts and bolts"


                        Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                        Comment


                        • #21
                          Interesting,
                          To achieve maximum ventilation only open the windshield 1-1/2.
                          I always open mine further. Maybe it keeps the bees out


                          511F550E-BA30-405F-81FD-147620E4D7BF.jpeg
                          3 ~ Tudor's
                          Henry Ford said
                          "It's all nuts and bolts"


                          Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                          Comment


                          • #22
                            Don’t leave your heater on in the summer, or you’ll warp a valve


                            EF3D4D09-DB47-44AE-9C84-F36597A4DDAC.jpeg
                            3 ~ Tudor's
                            Henry Ford said
                            "It's all nuts and bolts"


                            Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                            Comment


                            • #23
                              Mitch my second real job was with a Ford dealer. In 1956, when the 57 came out the V8 had a lot of camshaft problems. I got where I beat the flat rate for changing cam and lifters big time. But for most jobs back then if you had not done that much, it was hard to make the rate.
                              Last edited by George Miller; 12-05-2017, 04:47 PM.

                              Comment


                              • Mitch
                                Mitch commented
                                Editing a comment
                                I hear ya George.. Working flat rate now a days they force you to steal, if you want to feed your family.

                            • #24
                              I usually will put one valve that is near full open, the other valve will be full closed. Adjust the one that is full closed. Has always worked for me,even on sbc race engines.

                              Comment


                              • #25
                                I am sure back in the day with all the dirt roads, this issue was much more prevalent.



                                16E4D588-8B16-4548-9D4A-41AE02C0ED37.jpeg5D754807-58DC-41EC-A882-E4062E4027A7.jpeg
                                3 ~ Tudor's
                                Henry Ford said
                                "It's all nuts and bolts"


                                Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                                Comment

                                Related Topics

                                Collapse

                                • tbirdtbird
                                  Interesting read in Service Bulletins on re-torquing head
                                  by tbirdtbird
                                  Finally broke down and got a set of the Ford Service Bulletins.
                                  First thing my eye found was this on pg 375:

                                  "Keep cylinder head nuts tight
                                  When engine is thoroughly warmed up all cylinder head nuts should be taken up slightly. This operation should be repeated several times especially during the first 50 miles the car is driven. Attention to this detail lessens the possibility...
                                  06-19-2017, 07:53 PM
                                • Jim Mason
                                  dip stick
                                  by Jim Mason
                                  From the 1932 service bulletin. and correction

                                  ...
                                  10-18-2018, 04:16 PM
                                • DaWizard
                                  Temperature Sensors
                                  by DaWizard
                                  I wonder how many out there in Model A land have some sort of a temperature gauge, be it mechanical or electrical?

                                  Well, here is a tidbit for helping to keep the temperature as accurate as the gauges allow.

                                  I don't know if you have stock studs holding the head on or not, chances are, not, but the ones holding my head on are a wee bit longer and made this thinking a no brainer.
                                  ...
                                  08-18-2017, 07:27 PM
                                • Jim Mason
                                  artistic license sent me on multi year search
                                  by Jim Mason
                                  Back a hundred years ago I searched for the brake equalizing shafts shown in the standards, service bulletins etc.


                                  I wasn't aware of the artistic license taken to clarify the illustration and this is the only shaft made
                                  ...
                                  09-28-2017, 01:49 PM
                                • George Miller
                                  Some what model A
                                  by George Miller
                                  picture of a 4 port I made a few years back. It did good at the hill climb years ago. It had a model A engine with a high compression head, high lift cam and 4 intake ports.

                                  This same car has my home built over head now.


                                  ...
                                  05-08-2018, 12:00 PM
                                • Mitch
                                  RG & JS Book
                                  by Mitch
                                  It seems i am always pulling a page through the binder ring so i keep these handy which makes them much more durable...
                                  You do not have permission to view this gallery.
                                  This gallery has 1 photos.
                                  09-30-2017, 12:37 PM
                                • Dennis
                                  Hardware
                                  by Dennis
                                  I was looking at the Standard Hardware 1928-1931 guide and noticed a few pieces that didn't seem to go with some of my hardware, but I'm sure more was changed than I first thought. As an example I notice about every vendor that sells valve chamber cover bolts are hex head raven, but in the Standard Hardware they are supposed to be round head bolts, B-39 which look like an ordinary round head 5/16-18...
                                  10-19-2017, 01:09 AM
                                • Mitch
                                  Model A Borescope review
                                  by Mitch
                                  EE6000 Wireless Borescope

                                  I just got this wireless borescope that works with a smart phone & Tablet. Yes there are other like kind scopes on the market but this was recommended by Tech Garage and also on some other automotive publications. Well i can tell you that it is everything it is cracked up to be. It comes with a 90 deg adapter for seeing up and it also has a light intensity...
                                  You do not have permission to view this gallery.
                                  This gallery has 4 photos.
                                  01-30-2018, 09:29 AM
                                • George Miller
                                  Making a Model A overhead valve head.
                                  by George Miller
                                  This will be the making of a cylinder head at my home. using two pieces 7075 alum. I will try to put them in the order it was made. The first picture will be two pieces that I started with. I had all the plans in my head.





                                  ...
                                  06-08-2018, 05:48 PM
                                • MontanaRed
                                  Took the Carb off today!
                                  by MontanaRed
                                  Need some opinions, Took my carb off today and this is what I found under the bowl, bowl doesn't have any holes in it and all the valves seem in good working order but that rust corrosion is pretty bad, also there is a small hole at 11oclock on the first picture it appears to be a machined hole, is it suppose to be there? Float has some dents in it also. Soaking it in evapo-rust overnight now. So...
                                  You do not have permission to view this gallery.
                                  This gallery has 3 photos.
                                  10-12-2018, 05:25 PM
                                Working...
                                X