Service Bulletin Tips

[Mitch]

I know most of us have the Bulletins and thumb through it now and then. If your like me i usually don't open it to often and forget about some of the things contained in it. Since we have been doing the daily JS question i have been opening the book to read a little more about the question that was asked that day. I figured it would be a good idea to post something from the SB's every now and then. Feel free to post other tips to this thread, but if ya think it's a bad idea i'm fine with that too.

This is on page 338 and it goes over a convenient way to ck and or adjust the valves by having certain ones on the lobe.





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[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Why does it say to put the park brake ON, before washin' the car? Are they afraid it will RUN AWAY, like when you TRY to wash your DOG
Dad

[2manycars]

Maybe they are afraid it will run you over as you lay under it and wash the underside of the fenders, thus tickleing the car.

[Ray Horton]

I just reset my intake valve clearances using the FSB method, except with the head on I couldn't accurately measure the depth of the cylinders. This is the flaw in the method. It works accurately only if the head is off.

[Mitch]

Ray you can just put those particular valves shown on the high part of the lobes, then check the others that are mentioned. No need to measure in the cylinders

[Ray Horton]

Mitch, It was very difficult to tell exactly when I was on the high part of the lobe by only observing the lifters. I had originally adjusted all valves to .015 as Vince suggested, so to change the intakes I just rotated the engine till the corresponding exhaust valve measured .015. Then I knew I was in the right spot, and adjusted the relative intake.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Mitch, It was very difficult to tell exactly when I was on the high part of the lobe by only observing the lifters. I had originally adjusted all valves to .015 as Vince suggested, so to change the intakes I just rotated the engine till the corresponding exhaust valve measured .015. Then I knew I was in the right spot, and adjusted the relative intake.

On Volvo push rod motors, on TDC# 1, adjust valves # 1-2-3 & skip 1---One turn & adjust the rear 3 & skip one. This "might" apply to a Model A???
Dad Fargestrarder (Swedish slang for a car!)

[tbirdtbird]

Both valves are fully closed and thus off the cam and ramps when any cyl is at TDC.
That is when we adjust. We have to do one cyl at a time this way, but at least there is no guesswork.
Depending on the cam, the exhaust does not begin to open until about 130°
The paperwork that comes with the cam will tell you this number, but it will never be less than about 110-120°, which is a long way off from TDC

I will look at the paperwork that came with my Stipe IB330 and post that number

UPDATE
A Stipe IB 330 cam has the exhaust opening at 124°
The intake closes at 304° or more properly 664° of the full 720° cycle

So, you are a long way off from either valve being open at compression TDC, ie zero degrees. In fact this is the furthest away you can ever be.

Other cams will vary depending on duration/overlap but the concept will not change.
As you know the Stipe IB330 closely resembles the Model B cam. Vince Falter at Ford Garage has a good table showing the various cam specs

BTW you can determine TDC of each cylinder easily by looking at where the rotor is pointing

[George Miller]

That is the way I do them also.

[DennyC]

Bill's Volvo method was the way I was taught by International Harvester. They published charts for all their different series of engines because which valves get adjusted when varies based on configuration of the ports. But the procedure remained the same on all 4 or 6 cylinder inline engines. Bring the engine to TDC and adjust half the valves, then one crank revolution to TDC again and adjust the other half.

It always worked for me, but then my A doesn't have a TDC mark, so the other methods mentioned above are the way to go.

[tbirdtbird]

the amount of carry over of technique from motor to motor is gonna also depend on the firing order.

Not sure of the firing order of a 4-cyl IH, but it may not be the same as a Model A.
On an engine with more than 4-cyls it is nice to have a specific chart telling you when you can adjust a bunch of valves at once, that is quicker than the one-cyl at a time method I described above. For a 6- or 8-cyl motor such a chart would be a nice time-saver

[tbirdtbird]

The only issue I have with the service bulletin on this is the lash suggested is too tight and you are gonna burn your valves.
I know Vince suggests .015 for both.
I was told by an old timer long ago to use .013 for both. Have used that number on many cars for thousands of miles and never an issue
.013, .015, it may not matter, but the SB number for some reason is def. too tight

[Mitch]

Les red book calls for .013 intake & .015 exhaust

[DaWizard]

It's got both bases covered!

[tbirdtbird]

I could live with that

[George Miller]

013 & 015 is what I use my reason is the exhaust is going to run a lot hotter than the intake on hard pulls, there fore will expand more so the valve stem will grow longer on the exhaust. Plus it will pound in the seat more over time.

[Mitch]

I got a chuckle out of this one. Maybe Tom can chime in on the proper way to remove and handle an armature.


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[Mitch]

I put this armature post originally on the wrong service bulletin thread.

[Tom Wesenberg]

You buy a 1" long fine thread bolt and screw it all the way in, then use a puller or press against the bolt. Never hammer or press against the taper.

[Dennis]

Amazing what people will do just so they don't have to pull the puller out and claim how fast they can do a job.

[Mitch]

Were the Ford factory techs flat rate or hourly?

[Dennis]

When I worked at a construction equipment dealer I'd always try to pin the factory service reps down on some of their SPG, standard pricing guide, hours to do some of the jobs. I'd tell them let me guess you guys have a cart with all and only the tools needed to perform the job and have the work in front of them. They'd always get red in the face after awhile. We knew better...

[Mitch]

I hear ya Dennis
Before i opened my own shop i worked flat rate for a few Ford dealers. One of my specialties is automatic transmissions and they would pay around 12 hours to R&I and overhaul. I was banging them out complete in 5 hours. Ford gets a copy of my job time punches for all warranty work performed. They accused me of fraud and not doing the job properly. They had an auditor come in to watch me do one and needless to say he left with a foot up his butt. They never bothered me again after that i had carte blanche.

[tbirdtbird]

You show'em, Mitch.
Obviously there is a bell curve for speed and skill of mechanics like there is for every other job calling, and you were on the high end of the curve, total surprise there!!

If they weren't done right they'd sure as hell be back in the shop in a heartbeat

Automatics scare me to death, have never had one opened and don't intend on starting now. The only thing I know for certain is that the insides must be hospital squeaky clean or the valve body will not do its job

When you are ready, stop by and we'll rip the aircraft carrier sized 4-speed out of my '59 Caddy and you can teach me. It is like 2 Powerglides in series. I have no idea how ppl can learn this stuff

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Mitch, bet you bought VASELINE, in the BIG JARS--LOL
Friend, John, did an AUTOMATIC, using Lubri-Plate on ALL the sliding stuff, he had to tear it down COMPLETELY & clean ALL that CRAP out! It even formed BLOBS, on the filter screen!
KDad Slick

[Mitch]

I did and always the baby fresh smelly kind... Later in life i started using assembly lube

[Mitch]

POP
That is a huge NONO.
You know how many mechanics i have seen do a trans service, and then wipe the pan out with a shop rag after cleaning it. All that lint goes right into the filter screen and then the valve body.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

And how many "mechanics" polish valve body valves with crocus cloth & remove its' SHARP edges, that help keep the bores clean!
Automatic transmission overhauls require a "surgeons' " skill!

[Dennis]

The only issue I have with the service bulletin on this is the lash suggested is too tight and you are gonna burn your valves.
I know Vince suggests .015 for both.
I was told by an old timer long ago to use .013 for both. Have used that number on many cars for thousands of miles and never an issue
.013, .015, it may not matter, but the SB number for some reason is def. too tight

I know this is down the thread aways, but this is what Specialty Motor Cams have on the tag for a touring B 340 cam. Yeah... .012" lash on both intake and exhaust.

[tbirdtbird]

yep, saw that, too tight for me.

I am at .013 all around and it is quiet

[Dennis]

Same here. 1,000 miles after runnin and mine were about .014" I might have set them loose when the cam, lifters, and valves and seats were new.

[Mitch]

Make sure your your coil wire is installed correctly.




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[plyfor]

Good point, post 18. As mentioned in other posts, we've turned our (new) oil filled coil with the terminals up supposedly for better secondary wiring oil enscapsulation. This requires a longer coil wire and boots installed (though not fine point) to keep the wire snug..

[Mitch]

We always hear about using magnets or grease on the ring gear. Has anyone tried this method?



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[Mitch]

Interesting,
To achieve maximum ventilation only open the windshield 1-1/2.
I always open mine further. Maybe it keeps the bees out


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[Mitch]

Don’t leave your heater on in the summer, or you’ll warp a valve


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[George Miller]

Mitch my second real job was with a Ford dealer. In 1956, when the 57 came out the V8 had a lot of camshaft problems. I got where I beat the flat rate for changing cam and lifters big time. But for most jobs back then if you had not done that much, it was hard to make the rate.

[Mitch]

I hear ya George.. Working flat rate now a days they force you to steal, if you want to feed your family.

[Ed H]

I usually will put one valve that is near full open, the other valve will be full closed. Adjust the one that is full closed. Has always worked for me,even on sbc race engines.

[Mitch]

I am sure back in the day with all the dirt roads, this issue was much more prevalent.



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