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  • 28-E29 valve cover

    I don't have a copy of service bulletins and was wondering if anybody knows why they changed the valve cover in May of 29 to lower the return pipe? Did they change the block also or is the oil passage for the rear main bearing unchanged. Seems like the main bearing would be less likely to starve of oil with it being a little higher, especially going down hill.

  • #2
    They lowered it to help prevent oil burning, I believe everything else is unchanged
    3 ~ Tudor's
    Henry Ford said
    "It's all nuts and bolts"


    Mitch's Auto Service ctr

    Comment


  • #3
    It was changed to lower the oil level in the valve chamber to keep the oil off the valve stems, to slow down oil consumption. The outlet for the oil return pipe was positioned lower, and the pipe lengthened to match. It is necessary to use the oil return pipe that matches the cover, in either case.
    Bill
    http://www.brauchauto.com/
    Eastern Connecticut

    Comment


    • #4
      Ok, consider this scenario. Let's say you have the early valve cover with a higher level drain pipe. Your engine is warm normal operating temp you have been driving and get to your destination, turn off the engine. After the engine is off you have oil from the engine draining back to the pan and the oil level is raising maybe faster than the oil draining from your rear main bearing which is also still getting oil from a higher oil level side cover even tho the valve chamber is no longer getting oil, there is more oil in that chamber to drain down before it's level where it won't drain any longer. Could this have an effect on the rear main leaking after the engine is shut off while when the engine is running at any rpm it does not leak? I ran this engine for 3 hours at several different rpm and not a drop of oil leaked out the cotter pin hole. As soon as it was turned off 30 seconds later it starts to make a puddle 4" in diameter leaking from the flywheel housing cover plate and cotter pin hole. So all you engine experts give me your opinion. I have my theory on what the real problem is and it's not just this, but I want to cover all bases before I pull this engine again. And btw I have a different cover and pipe ordered on it's way.

      Comment


      • #5
        Dennis, your theory makes sense to me. While running, the oil is slung up and around the oil slinger and is drained back into the pan. After the engine is shut down, it doesn't have that rotational movement and the flood of oil into the rear bearing area can't drain back as fast as it gathers so it over flows the slinger galley and drains back into the flywheel housing.

        I would ask a couple questions...is it babbit or insert bearings? What is the gap in the rear main bearing? Have you had the pan off and checked to be sure you have the drain tube on the rear main? How close to the Full mark on the dipstick do you keep the oil level?

        I am thinking that all these can be a contributing factor. The worst of these the gap in the bearing too loose and allowing the oil to drain from the valve chamber to the rear main instead of back into the pan.

        That's my opinion, and I'm stickin to it!
        You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

        Comment


        • #6
          Everything is as it should be. Inserts. Oil level at the bottom of F mark. Also was told the block casting where the oil hole for the rear main bearing is higher on a early 29 block than later blocks. So I'm not changing the valve cover to lower the drain. I was told it will not change how the rear main leaks or not.

          Comment


          • #7
            Does your rear main bearing cap have a 5/16 or 3/8 inch drain pipe? That would be a factor.
            Bill
            http://www.brauchauto.com/
            Eastern Connecticut

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            • #8
              3/8 drain pipe.

              Comment


              • #9
                My inserted engine with the later valve cover leaked, driped after shutting off when the oil level was near the full mark on the stick. It's now half way between full and add, seams to not leak,drip after shutting off. Your results may very!

                Comment


                • #10
                  From post #4. "And btw I have a different cover and pipe ordered on it's way."

                  From post #6. "So I'm not changing the valve cover to lower the drain." I should have said cover AND pipe. What my main concern was, Is the block in the area higher on a pre May 29, than a later 29 to end of 31 and I was told it is, so because of that I'm not changing the pipe and cover.

                  I already know this, but I don't know what is in the rear main cap or what if anything has been done internally to the rear main cap. If memory serves me correct, there is something like a plug or cover that is on the front side of the cap from when these caps are made to drill the drain hole from the rear of the cap where the aluminum ring is forward to the drain pipe. When I took the caps and crank out in the past I noticed there was a small glob of babbitt in that galley groove that I felt would restrict the oil drain from what it should have been. It wasn't blocking the drilled hole but was next to it. I should have taken a picture of that and might have and will go back through 5,000 pictures and look for it. I personally didn't remove the plug to check for a restriction or machine for inserts or clean that babbitt from the groove or assemble the crank in the block and install the main bearing cap. Brent you mention a "journal pin with clearance of the insert shell being excessive". Is this pin in the block or the main bearing cap? Like I said I have never had this crank out to inspect the crankshaft or bearings yet. So Brent, thank you for the information on the pin and the bearing shell. I assumed these blocks when machined for inserts had the common groves cut for the tabs on the bearing shells which from my experience is most common. I've never seen pinned bearing shells.

                  The engine has not been pulled yet and it pretty much looks like what is wrong is in the area of the rear main bearing. So thank you all for your input.

                  One other thing I've read is the access cover on top of the bell housing was changed from non vented to the one that has the louvers because the non vented could cause a vacuum. Whether this is true or not the cover was changed prior to when the inserted engine was installed. The fill pipe has no restriction nor does the breather cap have any wadding or such, tabs are correct in the cap to provide clearance so the crankcase can breath. I have done the bag test on the breather to check for blowby and that passed the test, no blowby.

                  Comment


                  • Mitch
                    Mitch commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Never heard about that vacuum myth... it was changed for ventilation issues

                    Post #190

                    https://www.vintagefordforum.com/for...uestion/page10

                    remember there is a cam gasket back there

                  • Dennis
                    Dennis commented
                    Editing a comment
                    No gasket, was told to assemble with RTV, I always use Permatex Ultra Black and have never had a problem. What I like about Bill Stipe cams is that he drills a hole parallel to the camshaft in the last bearing journal I assume to relief pressure should there be any at the rear of the camshaft. Also no cracks in the flywheel housing and it is dialed in to within .002" runout all the way around top bottom sides. All the bolts that go through to inside of block have been sealed also. This is not saying one of the bolts or the housing isn't leaking in this area. It might be hard to determine without taking it off and with oil getting sprayed around in there from the flywheel.
                    Last edited by Dennis; 11-30-2017, 01:23 PM.

                  • Dennis
                    Dennis commented
                    Editing a comment
                    I had to hunt for that. and you and I even commented on that. Boy I sure feel like a dumb shit now! I must have read the myth on the dark side... where else could I have seen that... I better start reading all the questions and correct answers and try to remember a little better

                • #11
                  Be sure to check the R front motor mount bolt. It passes all the way thru the timing cover. It needs sealant. Don't care how tight it is. An old timer put me onto this long ago. I have seen cars with what you would SWEAR have a rear main leak, only to discover that oil has found a nice hidden path from that bolt to the edge of the pan, worked its way back, and routed itself to appear like a rear leak, and it will puddle up as well as any rear leak when the engine is off

                  We have corrected several 'rear main leaks' with this simple fix

                  Comment


                  • Mitch
                    Mitch commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Great tip

                  • Dennis
                    Dennis commented
                    Editing a comment
                    There are quite a few holes in front that pass through. All are sealed on mine. Oil is coming out the cotter pin hole.

                  • Mitch
                    Mitch commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Some of the front oil pan bolts go into the oil

                  • A29tudor
                    A29tudor commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Thanks for the front right motor mount tip. Worked for me. Sealed it and the oil I was getting blowing back on the right side went away. Thanks, now my drip pan is dry.

                • #12
                  Oops ! I know someone that didn't seal that bolt, Thanks for the tip !

                  Comment

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