Any pictures of Model A's on a two post lift?
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Funny you should ask
This is right in our chassis tech sub forum
https://www.vintagefordforum.com/for...3-lifting-an-a3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctr
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you'll need the tallest adapters you have.
The right rear is the trickiest since the tail pipe is right in the way. I raise the arms enough to get by the pipe, then slip the pad on for that one corner. The pad can stay in place all the time for the other 3 corners.
BTW I was taught by the lift installers that you can combine your adapters as 2 of any size together, but they advised against using all three at a time
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I'm too much of a coward to try to use a two post lift on a Model A Ford!! I know there are guys that do use them and more power to them.
I'd feel better with a four post, if I ever had the room for one. One you just drive on. I'm not into doing brakes so a four post would suit me fine for what I would want to do..........
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"If set up correctly they are totally safe on a twin post "
totally agree. we have a 10K pound two-poster and have had some 7 and 9 K pound vehicles, trucks, etc on there no problems. The A is very light. You just need to careful of your positioning of your arms. Always be sure you are on the frame for all 4 corners, never radius rods.
Use a creeper to get down there and set your arms. raise the lift slowly until you make contact. Once the wheels are slightly off the ground, grab the body or bumpers or something and deliberately give the car a good shake to see if it is unstable. If it falls off the arms at that point, there is no harm. Once the car is about 3 ft off the ground we go to each corner and inspect the engagement of the arms/pads to the frame using a trouble light to get a better eyeball on things. We do this for every single car we put up in the air. There is no such thing as too much safety.
If you get a lift, practice putting a few modern cars on first to get the feel of it. On a modern car you will engage the jack points, which are shown in the owners manual, and are always at the pinch weld.
The car wants to be forward enough that you can just barely get the driver's car door open enough to get out of the car. You are trying to balance the weight of the heavier front end with the engine.
Most installers will have tips for you, if you ask while they are there bolting it in.
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Originally posted by tbirdtbird View Post"If set up correctly they are totally safe on a twin post "
totally agree. we have a 10K pound two-poster and have had some 7 and 9 K pound vehicles, trucks, etc on there no problems. The A is very light. You just need to careful of your positioning of your arms. Always be sure you are on the frame for all 4 corners, never radius rods.
Use a creeper to get down there and set your arms. raise the lift slowly until you make contact. Once the wheels are slightly off the ground, grab the body or bumpers or something and deliberately give the car a good shake to see if it is unstable. If it falls off the arms at that point, there is no harm. Once the car is about 3 ft off the ground we go to each corner and inspect the engagement of the arms/pads to the frame using a trouble light to get a better eyeball on things. We do this for every single car we put up in the air. There is no such thing as too much safety.
If you get a lift, practice putting a few modern cars on first to get the feel of it. On a modern car you will engage the jack points, which are shown in the owners manual, and are always at the pinch weld.
The car wants to be forward enough that you can just barely get the driver's car door open enough to get out of the car. You are trying to balance the weight of the heavier front end with the engine.
Most installers will have tips for you, if you ask while they are there bolting it in.
When i put my 4 post together in my home garage i tested it out using the wife's modern car, before my A's went on it3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctr
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Interesting video.
1) the off side post wasn't securely anchored to the concrete, you can see it tilted back after the car falls
2) the arms are improperly made. I had no idea a lift like this was legal, must be a cheapo chinese POS. Notice how the arms swing out to the sides as the car moves. A properly made lift has locks on the arms, once the arms are about 1" off the ground they CANNOT be swung in or out, they are locked. You get what you pay for.
3) I can't prove it but I suspect the car was not on the arms properly.
However, if the offside post started to break free of the concrete, and the arms could swing out, that would be enough for the accident
4) the car is too far forward, thus too much weight to the front
5) there appears to be a seam in the concrete right where the mainside and offside posts are; if so, it is bolted to the weakest area of the concrete, ie an edge
I wonder if it was a professional or redneck install. Almost doesn't matter the lift is a POS anyway.
You need at least 4" of solid concrete; 6" is betterLast edited by tbirdtbird; 11-25-2017, 12:26 AM.
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Well actually I do have an Atlas 2 post 9k lift.
Mitch is 100% correct on the time to set up. I position my front post the same as Mitch, but the rear I move to the opposite sided of the rails and back a little more to just in front of the shocks. To me the car feels more stable having the arms spread more evenly over the length of the car.
But then again I can assure you that my arms and posts and adapters are no way on the Atlas ($1,495) as strong and beefy as mitch's.
Mitch what brand and cost is yours?Attached Files
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Originally posted by old31 View PostWell actually I do have an Atlas 2 post 9k lift.
Mitch is 100% correct on the time to set up. I position my front post the same as Mitch, but the rear I move to the opposite sided of the rails and back a little more to just in front of the shocks. To me the car feels more stable having the arms spread more evenly over the length of the car.
But then again I can assure you that my arms and posts and adapters are no way on the Atlas ($1,495) as strong and beefy as mitch's.
Mitch what brand and cost is yours?
At the house i just have a cheaper 4 poster
Many dealerships use them as they are certified by the auto manufacturers for use in their franchises
This brochure shows the adapters
3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctr
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Dave yes they lock automatically like you described above..3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctr
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Originally posted by 1931 Flamingo View PostWhen you talk about two post lifts, what comes up in my mind is the two post lifts from the 50's..................
Paul in CT
I have a modern 2 post lift, but it is a pain to get in and out of the car when on the lift, unless it is tiny, like my MG. I had my 47 Ford on it yesterday, and spent so much time crawling around positioning the arms that I was thinking seriously of replacing it with a 4 post. It works great on the Honda Fit and the MGs, but not so much on the larger cars.You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 1 photos.
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[QUOTEWhen i put my 4 post together in my home garage i tested it out using the wife's modern car, before my A's went on it][/QUOTE]
I tested my 4 post lift with my F250I like the 4 post because I don't have to crawl around under it to lift a car and also it can be easily moved around on the dollies if I wish. I also store my Shelby on it so it is out of reach of the grandkids and me. I ordered the model with extra height (6' 11") to protect my old bald head.
TOB
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