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Rear axel, one more time

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  • Rear axel, one more time

    Ok Mitch, and everybody, Photo on far left is without using original washer but the ARP nut has the same diameter as the washer. Also there is room for cotter pin. Photo on far right is using the washer but no room for cotter pin. Both ways are using all the threads of the ARP nut. Photo #3 shows the rear puller that caused all my grief on the left. On the right is a work of art made by Mitchel in Cal. I think same people that make the overdrive transmission. It can pull both styles of hubs. Last photo needs no explanation but I am not going to be ready for Xmass parade.
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    This gallery has 4 photos.

  • #2
    I vote for no washer.. The nut will be further up threads and you still have the cotter pin hole without drilling the nut. The cotter pin is not to stop the nut from coming loose, but to prevent it from spinning off..
    3 ~ Tudor's
    Henry Ford said
    "It's all nuts and bolts"


    Mitch's Auto Service ctr

    Comment


    • #3
      I am with Mitch, nut and cotter pin but no washer. I do like the looks of the ARP nut. What is the part number of that nut?
      Thanks
      Robert

      Comment


      • #4
        Agree best option. Just make sure it is tight.

        Comment


        • #5
          Henry himself would give a thumbs up to the nut and cotter without the washer.

          Comment


          • #6
            Agree with all, per those pix no washer needed, it is built in

            Comment


            • #7
              Do you have a link to the ARP nut you purchased?
              3 ~ Tudor's
              Henry Ford said
              "It's all nuts and bolts"


              Mitch's Auto Service ctr

              Comment


              • carolinamudwalker
                carolinamudwalker commented
                Editing a comment
                Mitch, the nut is ARP 300-8329 You can google ARP Hardware but I think I bought them from summitracing.com

            • #8
              Page 290 in the service bulletins..
              Remove the nut and turn it around so the castles are pointing inwards. This prevents swelling and deformity of the axle ends when using the puller



              320BD24D-70D8-4696-B558-9D55F928AC1F.jpeg
              3 ~ Tudor's
              Henry Ford said
              "It's all nuts and bolts"


              Mitch's Auto Service ctr

              Comment


              • CarlG
                CarlG commented
                Editing a comment
                That's what I always do. It also prevents the hub from shooting across the floor when it does finally come loose.

            • #9
              Thanks Mitch, that will work with the new puller, but not the el-chepo $30 puller that I was using Because the axle must go up into the puller with no room for a nut. The problem is you cant see what is going on with the end of the axel. Would just like to put out an alert to folks not to use the cheap puller. Bob

              Comment


              • #10
                I have this hub puller made by Mitchell. It's a little more than $30, but has been well worth the price paid. It will work with both styles of hubs up thru '48.
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                This gallery has 1 photos.
                Alaskan A's
                Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska
                Model A Ford Club of America
                Model A Restorers Club
                Antique Automobile Club of America
                Mullins Owners Club

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                • #11
                  I have one like Carl has and the pinion puller from Mitchell. Tomorrow afternoon I'm getting started on a rear axle that has different hubs, one old style and the other newer. I can only imagine whats inside.

                  Comment


                  • CarlG
                    CarlG commented
                    Editing a comment
                    I also have the Mitchell Pinion Puller. Really can't beat these tools made by Mitchell.

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