Fitting the manifold Heater to the manifold on a 29....Issues

[Mark Maron]

Trying to fit the Snyders manifold heater in my manifold and running into some issues with fit. Does not seem to sit correctly, i have the split on the firewall that is causing issues also....Anyone have any advice on this in a 29 firewall, .......????? I wondering if i have to do some grinding here to fit it better,.....

[Dennis]

Is your exhaust manifold original or repop? Maybe it's the B carburetor has something to do with it, just kidding. Before I took a grinder to it, I'd give Snyder's a call.

[Mitch]

Maybe the FAM's are causing it... Should i dare say that

[Dennis]

You could be onto something there Mitch. There is an UP identifier cast onto the mount that bolts to the engine.

[Mark Maron]

Ok no float a motors at all.

[DaWizard]

Well, first off what I see is the heater needs to be lower and forward to give you a decent gap between firewall port and heater for a flex hose of some sort. It also looks like it is sitting too high on the manifold, specially in the rear, but it should probably fit parallel with the manifold.

IF you are using FaM, are you certain you have them mounted correctly?

One give away is the GAV rod, it seems to be without bending to reach the carb, which would tell me the engine is sitting properly.

Not having one myself, I would wonder if there is a boss or some such inside the heater that can be ground down to lower the height to clear the tank seam and lower the heater onto the manifold more?

Just my common 2¢ worth.

[Mark Maron]

Ok da no float at all. I have about a 1 I gap to the firewall. O turned the door around and gag is the inside. But I do know it does need to sit lower. Orig. manifolds and planed for a perfect fit also. Very puzzling here and I think,it’s time for the Dremel to do,some grinding. ????

[Mitch]

Mark keep grinding

[MikeK]

That "Model A" cast aluminum heater cover was never an era accessory like the Autolite, Otwell, and others. It was cobbled together as a foundry pattern sometime in the 70's when Model A resto gained market. It was never a good fit for split firewall A's (nor for the exhaust manifold or heat delivery). Improvements were never made and, like many repop parts needs tons of fitting in many instances.

At the rear, FAM's may account for + or - 1/4 inch but no more. If you truly had that much engine alignment variance you would have other problems.

Not what you want to hear, but for best heat and easy dizzy access without unbolting anything summer or winter for a 28/29 the later Otwell with the center dip for access to the diz lock screw is best, as it gives several inches to the firewall for a piece of flex hose.
090615-002-small.jpg
[ *** NOT my picture. That copper line is trouble! ***]
I saw one installed with NO HOLE in the firewall, just a piece of corrugated SS flex routed around the linkage and down, going through the upward slanted part of the floorboards.

There's an Otwell like I speak of on eBay, but it needs lots of work. I know now is when you need the heat, but if you can find one in decent condition it would serve you well. They all need a sheet metal funnel extension added to the front, up to 1/2" shy of the fan. You remove it and block the opening in the summer.

[Mark Maron]

Very familiar mike with them. However to find one that does not have the 4th port dropped is a bit of a challenge to say the least. In fact to find any good manifold heater with out a bad 4th is like hens teeth. I wish that south wind didn’t take up so much room. I know Kenny has about 50+ of these heaters but by the time I found a good one, have the twins plane it and install it will be March. Lol. Ahhhhhh what to do what to do??

[DaWizard]

Mark, I sorta have a solution for that droopy 4th port, if you're not proud. I had a droopy manifold that would not accept the rings and still used it. Hang the rings and one piece gasket on a screw and get these https://www.brattons.com/28-31-2-pie...ld-gasket.html gaskets. They don't depend on the rings and will always line up with the holes in the block, and let the manifold hang where it will.

If you really want to be creative, you could mount the manifold upside down and hang a 40# brick from the outlet and super heat to red the manifold. It does work, but it also takes some work.

[BNCHIEF]

Mark if you mount the firewall port below the bolt line i would think you could get some of that tube like they used to use from the manifold to the air cleaner it was called heat riser tubing that is very flexible and may work with the offset. Looks like that whole part would be more effective if you could get more of it down over the manifold.

[Ray Horton]

So Mark, what did you do?

[Mark Maron]

NOTHING YET, I just got an original cast iron one identical to the repp but original that I am going to work on tomorrow, Ill keep all posted!

[Mark Maron]

WELL UPDATE>> the issue is that i have realized is the DOUBLE Split firewall on the 29 TSedan Murray.. The gas tank is in stalled from the bottom up or inside the passenger compartment and NOT dropped from the top down with welting. There is NO welting on my car or other 29 TSedans...I have obtained and original Autolite manifold heater, it is in 2 parts and made out of cast Iron, the repos are made from this design. It automatically sat lower on the manifold and with a bit of grinding and shaping i got it to fit nice as you can see in the pics. My issue now is how to attach so it stays. The Repos works with a clamp that goes on the manifold stud to a bracket and sits over a head bolt. I "think" this was designed to clamp together and the force of the nuts tight held it...NOPE not a chance, so if anyone know how they worked tell me, now i think i will use a hose clamp around the manifold and heater to hold it firm....NEXT I drill the pass through on the firewall, I do have to use the repp door due to the firewall split and location of where it sits....

[Mitch]

Good deal WTG.. Nice pics

[Ray Horton]

Mark, you will be glad you found a cast iron cover. The aluminum repros don't hold any heat; the cast iron will enhance the heat (You probably already knew that). When you figure everything out, let us know; other guys with the same model can use the info. If you ever want to let loose of that older style heater door, please let me know. I need one for my biz coupe. Winter's here!
-- Ray

PS: Are you Waucona, IL, or Wauconda, WA?

[BNCHIEF]

Mark you could band it, It is what we use to clamp large hoses onto fittings, look up hose banding on you tube if you do not know what I am talking about while hose clamps would work this will be tight and look much better just go over the top of the heater and under the manifold front and rear . This banding is made of stainless steel and when finished would look a little neater. I might also add that i would put a wrap of maybe header wrap on to maybe stop any vibration not sure if you have any with this setup. I have an autolite waffle heater manifold and autolite heater but mine does not split like yours. you could also make a little deflector door to add to the repop like the original had.

[Mark Maron]

Ok Hose banding. Very cool clean and neet. However I need that tool and don’t have it. It’s the metal hose clamps. I’ll report when I can. Thank you mark

[BNCHIEF]

Mark people that do industrial hose could do it for you in less than five minutes just drive your car there or they may just come after work or a saturday as a favor I know my guys would. Better than hose clamps because there is no excess band sticking out to cut or scratch you also what Mitch said.

[Mitch]

You can buy a universal CV boot clamp
You pull it tight and fold it back over. I do have a tool i can picture for you it's nothing special, and probably not needed for what your doing

[Mark Maron]

Thought this would also be helpful as the comparison of Repo to original in the mangold fit..

[Mark Maron]

Finally got it done. Used and Original Autolite cast iron manifold heater. Installed without a hitch and just below the firewall seam also,, Took it out and I can no cook a chicken in the front seat with no problem, i had to actually open the windows when driving. In the garage and stopped interior was a nice 77 degrees. Thanks to ALL that help and suggested. Appreciate it greatly.....

[BNCHIEF]

Great looking job Mark with that bolt line there that makes a tight fit but you got her looking great.

[Mitch]

Looks good Mark

Is that flexible exhaust tubing?

[Mark Maron]

That is exactly what it is Mitch...

[Mitch]

Good idea!

Nice and sturdy

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

I used 2 Leather Flight Suits & Leather "SNOOPY" Flight Hats in my '32 Roadster.
Dad & Co-Pilot Warm

[CarlG]

This high heat hose (SCAT) is what we use here in the frozen wastelands of the north. Available from your favorite aircraft supply house is all sorts of diameters to meet your needs.