Yeah, that long springy thing from the dizzy to the popout switch. Even if you just use it for looks, without the original popout switch there is quite a bit of heat exposure. Not just any type of replacement wire inside will do. Remember whatever you put inside that popout cable should be capable of surviving repeated heat cycles and withstand 212º+F (100º+C) if you overheat (Never!.png "eek")
).
A sure loser is the thermoplastic trash sold in autoparts stores (melts).
Cross-linked modern automotive cable is iffy- withstands heat but continues to cross-link during repeated heat cycles resulting in brittle cracking.
Household THHN or THWN is good for 90ºC max (194ºF) and that's lower than an occasionally hot Model A head.
There are three types of wire that will work in this app:
You won't get the 3' of properly rated #16 (plenty big for 6 amps) you need off a spool at Home Depot. Buying even a small 25 foot spool on line is ridiculously spendy. So I recommend getting it FOR FREE.
Where: Pop the panels off any junked electric stove and score plenty of pieces long enough for a pop-out cable! Snip snip!
What about silicone lead wire- extremely heat resistant, usually to 500ºF? The problem with this stuff is it has very little cut resistance. OK if it passes your own 300ºF oven test and you do not snag or nick it while fishing it along with the requisite additional zinc plated bare steel ground lead inside the no-longer new and smooth inside of the spring cable.
If you do not rebuild the cable as original (with the bare ground wire inside) make absolutely sure you have an added tranny to frame ground strap or cable. Without it your ignition is subject to the myriad collection of loose and moving contact points that add up to the original ground system for the starter. Not good for a running engine ignition system.
).A sure loser is the thermoplastic trash sold in autoparts stores (melts).
Cross-linked modern automotive cable is iffy- withstands heat but continues to cross-link during repeated heat cycles resulting in brittle cracking.
Household THHN or THWN is good for 90ºC max (194ºF) and that's lower than an occasionally hot Model A head.
There are three types of wire that will work in this app:
SRML, also known as SFF-2, is rated at 150ºC. It has a fiberglass overlay top weave.
TGGT (Teflon Glass, Glass Teflon). Rated for 250ºC.
MGT, up to 450ºC.
TGGT (Teflon Glass, Glass Teflon). Rated for 250ºC.
MGT, up to 450ºC.
You won't get the 3' of properly rated #16 (plenty big for 6 amps) you need off a spool at Home Depot. Buying even a small 25 foot spool on line is ridiculously spendy. So I recommend getting it FOR FREE.
Where: Pop the panels off any junked electric stove and score plenty of pieces long enough for a pop-out cable! Snip snip!
What about silicone lead wire- extremely heat resistant, usually to 500ºF? The problem with this stuff is it has very little cut resistance. OK if it passes your own 300ºF oven test and you do not snag or nick it while fishing it along with the requisite additional zinc plated bare steel ground lead inside the no-longer new and smooth inside of the spring cable.
If you do not rebuild the cable as original (with the bare ground wire inside) make absolutely sure you have an added tranny to frame ground strap or cable. Without it your ignition is subject to the myriad collection of loose and moving contact points that add up to the original ground system for the starter. Not good for a running engine ignition system.
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