Rusty i having a hard time starting but once started runs great! I thought it might be something draining the battery but it is 6.15 at the battery, starter and coil. It will only want to do a revolution and then sometimes a few. Starter has been rebuilt by a local shop. I put a jumper on the pos ground to a engine bolt to test for bad ground but does the same thing. Head lights and horn are not installed yet so no draw there. Thinking starter is the issue.
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Do you have a good ground from the engine to the post on the battery it takes a good tight connection my friend had the same issue and that fixed it. -
Make sure that your starter bolts are not to long. These could contact the flywheel face and cause the drag. When making tests with jumper cables be careful as most cannot carry the amps. Try cutting one open the outer casing is thick with usually only a small strand of wires on the inside core. Jumper cables are designed to boost a weak battery, not start a car.
Timing could also be an issue...
Does the engine turn easily with a crank handle? That will eliminate the starter bolt
Try cranking it with the starter motor and leaving the key off.. This will eliminate a timing issue
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Your battery might be a little low. Mine is less than a year old and it usually checks 6.4 volts across the terminals.Comment
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Oh, it starts after being on the charger a bit. I wonder why it drops charge with a battery cut off. I'll put a full charge on him and see if problem continues.
The starter bolts are original 1" and have been used on 2 engines and started both my old and rebuilt one. Maybe with the vehicle just sitting and me not letting it fully charge is the issue. Thanks!!
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I agree. A good battery with a full charge should read 6.3 to 6.4 volts. I'd put the battery on a 3 to 6 amp charger for at least 6 hours. If the battery has been setting for several months and got sulfated, then leave the charger on for 24 hours and see how it works.Originally posted by slammin View Post
To make a good starter draw test you need to read the amps flowing through the starter cable, and read the battery volts at the same time. You can use an inductive ammeter laying on the starter cable to get a good indication of the amp draw. Inductive ammeters show up on ebay quite often, or can be bought off the tool trucks that stop at repair shops. Sears also used to sell them, but are any stores still around?Comment
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Agree with weak battery or cable issue. A starter draws about 100 amps if everything is in order. The cranking voltage needs to be at least 5 volts in a 6V system, or 10V in a 12V system.
On a 12V system, a brand new battery with good clean tight connections will show about 11.5 V while cranking.
You will not see the full battery voltage while cranking because the internal resistance of the battery, along with the very high amp draw, gives a significant IR drop. With lower amperage usual accessories such as headlights and all, you will maintain pretty close to battery voltage and not see much IR loss.
This startermeter (induction ammeter) that we use is older than I am, and that means old. It is an invaluable tool in the shop for starter diagnosis. If the battery is weak or the connections weak, then the starter will drag, pulling more than 100 amps, and bring the load voltage way down below 5 (for a 6V system), and be insufficient to spin the starter. You only need to lay the meter over the starter cable, no physical attachment required.
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Tbird look to the right side of the post left side will say 6 comments and only three show look to rightclick on little black arrow and you will get all the comments in that post.Comment
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Multi meter saying 6.25....you would think that would crank but it is doing 1 revolution.....back on chargerComment
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Hey Beauford, just a thought rattling around in my head, but have you checked to see if the screws that hold the starter together have loosened up and twisted the starter? It is possible this could bind the starter and draw higher load on the battery.You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!Comment
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Beauford is this an issue that has been ongoing or new?Comment
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Beau Use your multi meter and check the circuits for resistance, (use the OHMS setting) especially the ground circuit that you put the switch in.
Your battery still seems to be a little lowComment
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Beauford,
1) wait until you have a full, good charge on the battery, then put your voltmeter meter across the battery terminals, and record what the voltage is when you hit the starter. This is the single most important reading there is. Then report back
2) some of those battery cutoffs have too much internal resistance, I don't prefer them for that reason. By pass it and then give another cranking voltage reading and report back
3) Battery new or old?Comment
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Ahhhh.....water levels really low....distilled added. See if that helpsComment
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You're overcharging the battery and cooking the water out, unless that charge rate falls back to near zero within a couple minutes after starting the car.Originally posted by Beauford View Post
Another new battery will likely wind up in the same situation. The alternator may need a new regulator.Comment
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I missed the comment that said alternator @ 10 amps
Put a volt meter across the battery when it's running and charging and report back on the volts. The truck was hardly used so i am wondering if the battery electrolyte was already low to begin with. To boil it out that fast it would have made a mess.Comment
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I connected the battery to my 28 engine in the test stand and it wouldn't work so I messed around checking connections and when I happened to put my hand on the spark rod where it connects to the steering column arm, the thing was getting warm. I am assuming that the starter is bad but it ran fine last year. Can't get my head around how the spark rod is heating up other than it is the closest path...05-26-2020, 08:29 PM -
If you had to - if you disconnect the starter to battery cable on a 6v positive ground A, can you direct jumper a 12v Battery (positive to engine, negative to starter. to the starter) to start an A?
I realize this is not optimum , 12v on a 6v starter.
How bad does a battery have to be before it will not cause sufficient spark to start an A if hand cranking, or using the above method...03-10-2019, 11:37 AM -
I need a bit of direction on a starter issue, Back story: 1929 Tudor. 6 Volt system, new battery,
All was well with previous engine and 45 psi compression. Cold and hot start were fine. starter had been dis assembled, cleaned and lubed, brushes at about 50%, no excess play in bushings.
Recently installed rebuilt engine, W insert bearings, 6.1 head. cold compression 75 psi across...06-02-2020, 08:54 AM -
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Hello everyone
So I started the A this morning and it a started for 5 seconds then died.
I drove it yesterday 10 miles no problems.
After it died I press the starter-nothing
Horn, heads lights not working
ammmeter not deflecting
Battery 6.36 volts
checked voltage at starter switch 6 volts, disassembled, cleaned
cutout switch open
If the headlights/...04-11-2022, 12:47 PM
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