With the Fumaze and engine pans , one can install a piece of radiator hose from the bottom of the down pipe over the pan to its edge to deflect the blow by to the rear. We removed it in favor of the larger '32 orig. oil fill pipe, a less pricey option.
I have used the old Chev 6 breather, oil fill tub. You have to make a sleeve because the hole in the block is a little bigger. They work great all the fumes go under the car, and you can still add your oil by taken a twist cap off.
Here's a good idea that Brad had mentioned on the Studebaker site. He used a tail pipe expander inside the oil fill pipe, then connected a slide hammer to the expander to pull the pipe out. The slide hammer can be connected by a short piece of channel iron or square tube with 2 holes. This sounds like a good easy way to remove the pipe, but I'll have to check to see if my expander will fit deep enough...
No more Happy Oil Returns for this old pipe.
Putting this engine together, I grabbed a spare return pipe from my stash. Looked great and solid!
It needed paint, so I was cleaning it up with the wire wheel on the bench grinder. Never expected this. ??
So .... back to the shed to grab another pipe. . Jeff
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NOTE: You "purists" will hate this, but it is functional:
This "fix" is not for everyone, but works well for me on Elvira. For $12.50 on Amazon, you can buy a cast aluminum VW oil filler tube/screw on cap, with provision for a draft tube. Stick this in your lathe, and turn off a bit of material between the threaded area and the draft fitting, so it just drives in...
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After looking at the Judging Guideline/Standards, I have a question about the lower radiator return pipe. Attached is a picture from the JG/S's that concerns the lower pipes used on model A's. It states that the more bent pipe was used in 1928 through 1929. I always thought that the more bent pipe (first pipe in the attached picture) was used to provide clearance for the larger diameter powerhouse...
Just bought a new to me 1929 model a pickup. Engine runs fine with no knocks. After a 20 minute test drive and parked on concrete, oil flowed out of flywheel housing. A area approximately 18 inches In diameter. Oil also leaking from left side of engine pan and base of oil fill pipe.
I have all of Les Andrews books. Question, is it possible to remove pan and the rear main cap for inspection...
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Question, has anyone had success in soldering the oil return pipe back onto the ends? Mine fell apart when I took the bolts out of valve cover! I’ve read that some say yes others say no. Is it done on or off the engine? What did you use for solder? Lead based or brazing rod? Do they sell a fully assembled new one? I know they changed the bend for better flow can’t remember what years fit what?
Well, since all the newsletters I get have the "Tech Tip" about the oil filler cap and cleaning the filler tube, and since I don't know the answer, I was wondering if there is a specific way to install the tube.
Alignment of the baffles? Orientation of the baffles?
I haven't been able to find anything on how the baffles are best aligned.
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