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  • Starter draw

    I installed one of those buss 30 amp fuse blocks on my starter. The insulation was bad on wires from the ammeter to the junction box so I replaced those as well as adding the missing dash light. Today the weather was great so I decided to take a short drive around the neighborhood. I hooked up the battery and as soon as I hit the starter button, the fuse blew! I pulled out the multimeter and wiring diagram and check my latest "improvements". It all looks correct and I can't find anything grounded. I replaced the fuse and tried again with the same result. There is a receipt for a starter rebuild in the paperwork I got from the seller. Any chance the starter is drawing more than 30 amps? Because I haven't solved my light switch problem, there is no other wiring in the car.

  • #2
    The actual starter will draw close to 100 amps. Starters, even in modern cars, are not fused. The fuse holder mounted on the starter with the 30 amp fuse is for everything else except the starter. There is interference somewhere of the starter pedal linkage and a wire somewhere.

    Remove the fuse, and have a second person sit in the car and step down on the started pedal while you are looking under the hood to see what is hitting what; something is shorting out

    BTW when trouble shooting shorts, you can save on fuses by using a test lamp across the prongs of the fuse holder. When you find and disable the short, the light will go out. (You are using the short to light the light, clever). You cannot blow the light bulb with this trick
    Last edited by tbirdtbird; 11-10-2017, 06:46 PM.

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    • #3
      Sounds like you ran the battery cable to the fuse stud, instead of leaving it on the original switch, which is where it must be.
      Only the smaller yellow wire goes to the large stud on the fuse holder.

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