Model A & B Head Stud Removal Tools

[Guest]

Here are a couple of screen shots showing three types of tools for removing stubborn cylinder head studs, hopefully without breaking them!

I have used all three over the years, and they each have their own advantages and limitations.

Go to the link on my web site for the complete explanation.

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/studremovaltools.htm

What are your favorites and experiences?

[DaWizard]

I am a cam style studly remover meself. I think mine is a Snap-off

[BNCHIEF]

If it breaks do you switch back to SNAP-ON

[Big hammer]

Only when you go back together
Snap- On :-)

[Dennis]

Please post the tool numbers if possible. I don't know if there is a problem with that, but the OP is specifically mentioning that all three of these are Snap-on tools. A tig would be nice but not in the budget yet as I'm sure the same for others. However beings a tig is also what was used, can anybody mention some brand names their experiences and which one they recommend to stay away from or recommend to buy? I worked for a company many years ago that had one and I remember it was very expensive and I used it a lot welding aluminum radiator connection castings when doing engine swaps, aluminum liquid fertilizer tankers, and the owners race car rollbars and other misc. welding projects.

[Boston Bruce]

Searching on eBay....

The tool on the right is a probably a Snap On A80A.
I think the one in the middle is a CG500. You have to buy the correct size collet for this tool.
The tool on the left might be an A36A or A50.

[DaWizard]

Searching on eBay....

The tool on the right is a probably a Snap On A80A.
I think the one in the middle is a CG500. You have to buy the correct size collet for this tool.
The tool on the left might be an A36A or A50.

Just looked, mine, the one on the left, says, A50

[Dennis]

I know what the one in the middle is, I have that set in my possession. It has if you buy the set 1/4" to 5/8" fine and coarse thread, more than most Model A owners will ever need. The one on the right A80A is the one I think would work best for me. Thank you Bruce. Another thing I'd like to mention I always use a T handle and socket to get equal amount of leverage on any of the tools mentioned above.

[Tom Wesenberg]

A couple years ago the local used tool store had the Snap On collet style stud remover set for $110.
Sure wish I would have bought it.

[Mitch]

Yea a screw driver costs that much from them

[Dennis]

Mitch you can say that again. Tom I bought my CG500 set about 35 years ago. Paid less for the complete set with the metal box than just a CG505 collet that I bought a few years after that. I needed something that would work on 3/4" back in the Caterpillar days of my career.

I don't have a set of the thread collet style. I only have the collet holder tool and the 7/16 fine collet. I think I bought them off the truck or online from snap on maybe 8 years ago. I can't imagine what other sizes would be useful on a Model A. Where? Save your money. You don't need a whole set.

[Guest]

Please post the tool numbers if possible. I don't know if there is a problem with that, but the OP is specifically mentioning that all three of these are Snap-on tools. A tig would be nice but not in the budget yet as I'm sure the same for others. However beings a tig is also what was used, can anybody mention some brand names their experiences and which one they recommend to stay away from or recommend to buy? I worked for a company many years ago that had one and I remember it was very expensive and I used it a lot welding aluminum radiator connection castings when doing engine swaps, aluminum liquid fertilizer tankers, and the owners race car rollbars and other misc. welding projects.

If you want a nice TIG welder, I have a beautiful brand new Miller Maxstar 152 TIG new in the box I am going to sell. Located in Detroit.
I bought it new surplus from a custom bike builder in Dallas years ago because I thought my old Maxstar 90 was getting old.
As it turns out, I still have the Maxstar 90 going strong and don't need the 152, and never will.

The Miller Maxstar 152 TIG is a constant curent DC inverter, which is the best and lightest machine designed especially for thin sheet steel, on up.
It has a high frequency arc starter, and a thumb slider rather than a foot pedal.
This makes it ideal for restoration work because you can weld anywhere and out of position, not just at a work bench.
It is a 220V machine, 150 amp, and also does stick and has a stinger.

Once you use TIG, you will want to retire your MIG unless you are building boat trailers.
This is an ideal machine for sheet steel restorers and fabricators and you can weld 22 gauge on up with absolute control.
See more on the link on my web site.

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/weldingthoughts.htm

[Mitch]

A nice welding article