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  • Engine rebuild

    When I first got my car I took it to a local rebuilder to have the engine looked over. He took out some shims and buttoned things up. Several tours later I started to hear some engine noise and noticed about 3/16 of shiny crank shaft at the front of the engine. I dropped the pan and found all the connecting rod caps had tiny loose cotter pins. some were broken and in the oil pan.They served no purpose. There was no thrust to keep the crank from moving. As I was lying there it donned on me that these were 90 year old rods and hardware that people are having new Babbitt poured and reusing. On the tour before our last we had a car that suffered a broken connecting rod. This same rebuilder said "oh these engines throw a rod without any warning. Happens all the time." My engine has been crated and headed for Antique Engine Rebuilders in Skokie ILL. Just saying Would like to hear other opinions carolinamudwalker

  • #2
    You got hosed. AER will fix it.

    Comment


    • #3
      "local rebuilder to have the engine looked over"
      whoever that was never go there again.
      Ray is right on

      and A's don't throw rods very often, only if things are all gaffed up. They are forged rods and very rugged.
      If they weren't checked for straightness/alignment, etc. or the cap came loose, or the thrust is gone etc, then all bets are off. There are many engine-builder wannabe types out there. There is a poster somewhere that claims that if you can rebuild a lawnmower engine then you can do an A motor. Which must be why I see an imaginary line of Model As lined up down the street from me at the mower shop

      Comment


      • George Miller
        George Miller commented
        Editing a comment
        The Model A engine is one of the hardest to get right, then on top that about 85 years old. Then there have been many think they knows that have screwed it up along the way. The lawn mower guy does not have a clue.

    • #4
      Oh crap.........I'm on my way now to get my Model A back from the lawn mower shop.

      Comment


      • Ray Horton
        Ray Horton commented
        Editing a comment
        Make sure they sharpen the fan blades, Tom.

    • #5
      My starter is bad, and now I no longer have to crank my A. I had lawnmower man install a Briggs and Stratton pull cord.

      Comment


      • #6
        Originally posted by old31 View Post
        My starter is bad, and now I no longer have to crank my A. I had lawnmower man install a Briggs and Stratton pull cord.
        Some antique car really did have a rope start accessory.
        The rope and handle ran to the dash, so you could pull start the engine from the front seat.

        Comment


        • #7
          Originally posted by carolinamudwalker View Post
          When I first got my car I took it to a local rebuilder to have the engine looked over. He took out some shims and buttoned things up. Several tours later I started to hear some engine noise and noticed about 3/16 of shiny crank shaft at the front of the engine. I dropped the pan and found all the connecting rod caps had tiny loose cotter pins. some were broken and in the oil pan.They served no purpose. There was no thrust to keep the crank from moving. As I was lying there it donned on me that these were 90 year old rods and hardware that people are having new Babbitt poured and reusing. On the tour before our last we had a car that suffered a broken connecting rod. This same rebuilder said "oh these engines throw a rod without any warning. Happens all the time." My engine has been crated and headed for Antique Engine Rebuilders in Skokie ILL. Just saying Would like to hear other opinions carolinamudwalker
          Good move sending it to Rich @ AER

          Comment


          • #8
            I had an engine rebuilt by Rich, and it was the smoothest, most powerful model A engine I ever had. I bet it had 60 hp. Stipe cam, new crank, light weight pistons, all insert bearings, oversize intake valves, high compression head, lightened flywheel with V8 clutch. I put it in a coupe, and wanted to keep the motor when I sold the coupe, but the buyer insisted he get the motor, after driving the car.
            You do not have permission to view this gallery.
            This gallery has 5 photos.
            Bill
            http://www.brauchauto.com/
            Eastern Connecticut

            Comment


            • carolinamudwalker
              carolinamudwalker commented
              Editing a comment
              2manycares Thanks for posting your pictures. That is exactly how I am going. Did you have an aluminum timing gear? I noticed a lot of ARP hardware in the photos. I already have the FSI distributer so when I get my engine back I will be bugging tbirdtbird if I cant get the timing right.

            • 2manycars
              2manycars commented
              Editing a comment
              Rich likes to install a fiber timing gear. Next time I do an engine I think I will use a bronze gear.

            • Mitch
              Mitch commented
              Editing a comment
              Yea he told me he likes the fiber in case something seizes in the valve train.

          • #9
            Bill, that looks like the Burlington crank you had. I went with their counterweighted crank and it's nice and smooth. They must have been using early pistons with those notches, mine were flat across the top. By the looks of yours and mine the piston skirts, they are V8 pistons. My engine has a lot of get up and go like you said, and I have no problems keeping up with city traffic. That's saying a lot for the way people drive out here. They are either late to work or they want to get home NOW!

            Comment


            • #10
              Those look like chev 283 piston with the special insert rods. They work real well.

              Comment


              • #11
                Bob, here is the link I was referring to. It has everything you need to know. Read it carefully and several times, would be my suggestion.
                You'll need a timing light and externalized timing marks, of course
                Email me with issues, Dave

                https://www.vintagefordforum.com/for...omatic-advance

                Comment


                • #12
                  Originally posted by Dennis View Post
                  Bill, that looks like the Burlington crank you had. I went with their counterweighted crank and it's nice and smooth. They must have been using early pistons with those notches, mine were flat across the top. By the looks of yours and mine the piston skirts, they are V8 pistons. My engine has a lot of get up and go like you said, and I have no problems keeping up with city traffic. That's saying a lot for the way people drive out here. They are either late to work or they want to get home NOW!
                  Yes, it was a few years ago. I used the Burlington crank, because I am leerly of welding a crank. The notches are from Chevy 283 pistons, which he was using at the time. He now uses custom made pistons, and they do not have the chevy valve clearance divots.
                  I am planning to pull the engine from my tudor this winter, and if it is worn badly enough, I will send that one to Rich also.
                  Bill
                  http://www.brauchauto.com/
                  Eastern Connecticut

                  Comment


                  • #13
                    I am probably wrong, but I thought using a fiber timing gear was to compensate for line boring that was not spot on. The excuse for using them is they are quitter. On another post, Dave I have printed out and saved that thread on timing the FSI. I am really looking forward to having a strong engine. Our club goes to the Smoky Mountains and does the tail of the dragon usually reserved for motorcycles and sport cars. Maybe I wont be last next time. Bob

                    Comment


                    • Mitch
                      Mitch commented
                      Editing a comment
                      That probably is part of it as well

                  • #14
                    "I am probably wrong, but I thought using a fiber timing gear was to compensate for line boring that was not spot on"

                    Bob, that has always been my suspicion, as well. Of course no one will admit that.
                    I have the bronze gear on 2 cars and it is quiet as can be. No roadside seminars for us!

                    The ride in the Smokeys must be a blast, even if you do come in last!

                    A buddy and I headed for the Smokeys on our Harleys in '07, but we had a delayed start due to the constant rain in New England (typical, one reason I moved to Texas). We got thru the Blue Ridge to the end but then ran out of time. It was a blast the whole way
                    . One of our tour leaders here for the Dallas club deliberately researches motorcycle touring routes since the twisties are just as much fun in an A.

                    Anyone in your group ever blow a head gasket on the tour? Dave

                    Comment


                    • carolinamudwalker
                      carolinamudwalker commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Yep, a rebuild with 6:1 head and the head gasket with the silicone borders. Also a broken rod, a broken clutch arm, several vapor locks (zeniths) Ignition failures (2) with standard dizzies. 2 flat tires and one wife took the buss home. ( Tail of the dragon down hill is a bitch) Dave, I lived in Manchester N.H. for five years. I was 20 and just got married. I don't recall the cold weather being a problem but I am too old to remember the reason why.

                  • #15
                    I always use bronze or alum on mine. No noise. For some one else I use what they want.

                    Comment


                    • #16
                      Where are these bronze gears bought from? Having a fiber gear makes me leary after seeing how the one that was in my engine failed when I bought the car. It was in time yet, but every tooth on it was broke off. I found that when I drained the oil before attempting to start it. It had been sitting without running for 36 yrs. When I rebuilt it in inframe last year I installed an aluminum gear. With my rebuilt AER engine I can only imagine what would happen if the cam gear were out of time with the counterweights on my crank. I don't think there is enough room between the lobes and the counterweights. When I pulled my engine recently to have it inserted, there were aluminum flakes from the gear stuck to the oil pump screen, might have been a little too tight... I have a new laminated gear in my spare parts pile same as what Bratton's sells, but like the idea of a bronze gear. I plan on doing a lot of touring, so what would be recommended?
                      Last edited by Dennis; 11-12-2017, 01:21 PM.

                      Comment


                      • #17
                        you can get them from Dan McEachern
                        [email protected] ph 510-532-8228

                        Comment


                        • Dennis
                          Dennis commented
                          Editing a comment
                          Thank you George!

                        • Kevin in NJ
                          Kevin in NJ commented
                          Editing a comment
                          Bought a set from Dan. Excellent products and service.

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