When I first got my car I took it to a local rebuilder to have the engine looked over. He took out some shims and buttoned things up. Several tours later I started to hear some engine noise and noticed about 3/16 of shiny crank shaft at the front of the engine. I dropped the pan and found all the connecting rod caps had tiny loose cotter pins. some were broken and in the oil pan.They served no purpose. There was no thrust to keep the crank from moving. As I was lying there it donned on me that these were 90 year old rods and hardware that people are having new Babbitt poured and reusing. On the tour before our last we had a car that suffered a broken connecting rod. This same rebuilder said "oh these engines throw a rod without any warning. Happens all the time." My engine has been crated and headed for Antique Engine Rebuilders in Skokie ILL. Just saying Would like to hear other opinions carolinamudwalker
-
-
You got hosed. AER will fix it. -
"local rebuilder to have the engine looked over"
whoever that was never go there again.
Ray is right on
and A's don't throw rods very often, only if things are all gaffed up. They are forged rods and very rugged.
If they weren't checked for straightness/alignment, etc. or the cap came loose, or the thrust is gone etc, then all bets are off. There are many engine-builder wannabe types out there. There is a poster somewhere that claims that if you can rebuild a lawnmower engine then you can do an A motor. Which must be why I see an imaginary line of Model As lined up down the street from me at the mower shopComment
-
Oh crap.........I'm on my way now to get my Model A back from the lawn mower shop.Comment
-
My starter is bad, and now I no longer have to crank my A. I had lawnmower man install a Briggs and Stratton pull cord.Comment
-
Some antique car really did have a rope start accessory.Originally posted by old31 View Post
The rope and handle ran to the dash, so you could pull start the engine from the front seat.Comment
-
-
I had an engine rebuilt by Rich, and it was the smoothest, most powerful model A engine I ever had. I bet it had 60 hp. Stipe cam, new crank, light weight pistons, all insert bearings, oversize intake valves, high compression head, lightened flywheel with V8 clutch. I put it in a coupe, and wanted to keep the motor when I sold the coupe, but the buyer insisted he get the motor, after driving the car.You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 5 photos.Comment
-
Bill, that looks like the Burlington crank you had. I went with their counterweighted crank and it's nice and smooth. They must have been using early pistons with those notches, mine were flat across the top. By the looks of yours and mine the piston skirts, they are V8 pistons. My engine has a lot of get up and go like you said, and I have no problems keeping up with city traffic. That's saying a lot for the way people drive out here. They are either late to work or they want to get home NOW!Comment
-
Those look like chev 283 piston with the special insert rods. They work real well.Comment
-
Bob, here is the link I was referring to. It has everything you need to know. Read it carefully and several times, would be my suggestion.
You'll need a timing light and externalized timing marks, of course
Email me with issues, Dave
https://www.vintagefordforum.com/for...omatic-advanceComment
-
Yes, it was a few years ago. I used the Burlington crank, because I am leerly of welding a crank. The notches are from Chevy 283 pistons, which he was using at the time. He now uses custom made pistons, and they do not have the chevy valve clearance divots.Originally posted by Dennis View Post
I am planning to pull the engine from my tudor this winter, and if it is worn badly enough, I will send that one to Rich also.Comment
-
I am probably wrong, but I thought using a fiber timing gear was to compensate for line boring that was not spot on. The excuse for using them is they are quitter. On another post, Dave I have printed out and saved that thread on timing the FSI. I am really looking forward to having a strong engine. Our club goes to the Smoky Mountains and does the tail of the dragon usually reserved for motorcycles and sport cars. Maybe I wont be last next time. BobComment
-
"I am probably wrong, but I thought using a fiber timing gear was to compensate for line boring that was not spot on"
Bob, that has always been my suspicion, as well. Of course no one will admit that.
I have the bronze gear on 2 cars and it is quiet as can be. No roadside seminars for us!
The ride in the Smokeys must be a blast, even if you do come in last!
A buddy and I headed for the Smokeys on our Harleys in '07, but we had a delayed start due to the constant rain in New England (typical, one reason I moved to Texas). We got thru the Blue Ridge to the end but then ran out of time. It was a blast the whole way. One of our tour leaders here for the Dallas club deliberately researches motorcycle touring routes since the twisties are just as much fun in an A.
Anyone in your group ever blow a head gasket on the tour? DaveComment
-
Yep, a rebuild with 6:1 head and the head gasket with the silicone borders. Also a broken rod, a broken clutch arm, several vapor locks (zeniths) Ignition failures (2) with standard dizzies. 2 flat tires and one wife took the buss home. ( Tail of the dragon down hill is a bitch) Dave, I lived in Manchester N.H. for five years. I was 20 and just got married. I don't recall the cold weather being a problem but I am too old to remember the reason why.
-
-
I always use bronze or alum on mine. No noise. For some one else I use what they want.Comment
-
Where are these bronze gears bought from? Having a fiber gear makes me leary after seeing how the one that was in my engine failed when I bought the car. It was in time yet, but every tooth on it was broke off. I found that when I drained the oil before attempting to start it. It had been sitting without running for 36 yrs. When I rebuilt it in inframe last year I installed an aluminum gear. With my rebuilt AER engine I can only imagine what would happen if the cam gear were out of time with the counterweights on my crank. I don't think there is enough room between the lobes and the counterweights. When I pulled my engine recently to have it inserted, there were aluminum flakes from the gear stuck to the oil pump screen, might have been a little too tight... I have a new laminated gear in my spare parts pile same as what Bratton's sells, but like the idea of a bronze gear. I plan on doing a lot of touring, so what would be recommended?Last edited by Dennis; 11-12-2017, 01:21 PM.Comment
-
-
These engines are amazing. The amount of abuse they can take and keep on ticking is incredible. Here is my story. I bought my first Model A about 4 years ago. Overpaid, didn't know what I was doing. But the engine ran and cosmetically it was sound so I figured, what the heck, I can fix anything that needs fixing. The first thing was steering; the car wandered all over the place. I had to aim it, not...You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 3 photos.03-12-2019, 03:44 PM -
Again I'm new at this game and haven't seen much, but this situation does not seem right. Give me your input please.
I'm getting a new engine so I tore the old engine down to see what it was like.
1. I found one of the rods had a 1.5 in long weight welded inside the web. Nothing on the other side.
2. Second rod had a 3" weight welded to each side of the rod.
3. Third...You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 1 photos.08-12-2018, 12:03 PM -
This engine, with only 4000 miles on it since rebuild, has always overheated and locked up when shut down after overheating, which is usually when driven at 45 or less for 30 minutes or more. (This did not and does not happen when driven under 35 and/or just around town for less than 45 minutes). I thought I had this problem fixed. But apparently not.
Here is the history: On 3/16/14 I...07-01-2017, 01:12 AM -
I do not want to get into bashing people. So I,m going to say the model A engine is one of the hardiest to get right when rebuilding them. You could do 2 chev small blocks or Ford small block to 1 model A engine, that is if you do it right. Every one always says how simple they are. But they are not simple to get right....01-22-2018, 03:25 PM -
I'm in a moral dilemma here. As some of you might have seen, I'm a new young 1929 Tudor owner.
When I bought the car, I thought the engine ran great. But after a bit of driving realized, things were quite wrong.
After taking the engine apart, discovered broken and worn out Babbitt's, and worn out cylinder bores, and a pitted crank.
In the country I live there is no one with...02-07-2022, 01:10 AM -
I am reaching out to members in the US because it is a very different market over there with stuff available that would be very difficult or impossible to find here. First, some background:
One of my cars has a B engine fitted which runs beautifully. It is my favourite and I think the counterweighted crankshaft is a large part of that. The bearings have inserts. I do not see inserts listed for...05-30-2020, 10:53 PM -
I kind of know this is like a correct oil but I will try:
WHEN should the mains and rods be checked (after how much mileage) OR are there signs (what are they) that will become apparent? I have been considering this for some time as I have over 14,000 on my rebuilt engine and don't want to wait until I don't have enough left of the Babbitt to remove shims and have the proper clearances....10-14-2020, 11:38 PM -
I have decided to get the engine rebuilt in my Tudor due to the worn babbit. At the same time I am considering lightening the flywheel and installing a V8 clutch. Bratton's catalog states the crank must be counterbalanced when installing the V8 clutch. What is a counterbalanced crank? How is it done? Is this the same as a crank with counter weights added?10-02-2021, 08:10 AM -
When driving on level ground at 45-50 MPR, the motor has a distinctive vibration that I chalk up to the fact that it is not balanced. However, on deceleration (like going down a hill) the vibration increases and when the engine is pulling (going up the hill) the vibration all but disappears completely (all examples at about the same RPM). What are the dynamics inside the engine that cause the vibration...08-21-2020, 11:08 AM -
Yesterday I was pleased to be invited to a seminar on Terry's new engine. I didn't take a head count but there must have been about 25-30 guys there. It was hosted by Richard Parrish in Anaheim, CA. I was asked to talk about and compare the A and the B engines, Richard had one of each on display. I wish Richard had shown the new engine earlier, although it was a better build-up saving it for last....03-21-2021, 05:31 PM
Comment