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  • Crank Pulley?

    Ok boys and girls, here is one I have not seen in my 50+ years of playing around with the Model A. It is a 2 piece crank pulley, but as you can see, it is not like the normal 2 piece. The pic on the left is the back of the pulley and the 4 indexing nibs for lack of a better word. The pic on the right is the end of the crank with a collar around the actual crank and the 4 indexing detentes.

    Without pulling the pan, how the hell am I suppose to remove this so I can replace it with a 1 piece pulley? There is no discernible lip to grab hold of and as you would expect, the damn thing is rust welded to the crank!

    PS. The reason I am replacing this is because it has a weeble wobble and now that I see it in hand, it is a 2 piece stamped and riveted pulley. *shudders*
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    Last edited by DaWizard; 06-09-2017, 07:15 PM.
    You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

  • #2
    HEY, Hold da phones!!!

    Got that bad boy out with a leetle tappy tap of the 4# hammer and a pair of vice-grips!! Whew, had me goin for a minute.

    Now to wait til tomorrow as the sun is in me eyes and can't see squat.

    Hey, can I jack the front of the motor with only removing the top rear motor mount bolt and loosening the bottom, or do I need to pull both rear bolts/side?
    You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

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    • #3
      When the new pulley goes back on, make sure the keyway is exactly lined up. The engine I'm working on now had a 2 piece pulley, and some fool just jammed the sleeve and pulley on, which forced a new keyway into the aluminum sleeve, and cracked it.

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      • #4
        I'm glad you got it off
        i had a stubborn one once so i lifted up the front of the motor then took my wizzer and scored the sleeve all the way around. i then used my small clam shell / bearing puller to remove it...

        i usually pull one bolt on each side and then loosen the other for the assy to pivot.
        3 ~ Tudor's
        Henry Ford said
        "It's all nuts and bolts"


        Mitch's Auto Service ctr

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Mitch View Post
          I'm glad you got it off
          i had a stubborn one once so i lifted up the front of the motor then took my wizzer and scored the sleeve all the way around. i then used my small clam shell / bearing puller to remove it...

          i usually pull one bolt on each side and then loosen the other for the assy to pivot.
          Yea, I had my inside/outside puller ready to pop it off until I found what you see. What a shock that was. I haven't seen one of those before, but then, this car is from Michigan.
          You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

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          • #6
            It only took you about 1/2 hour between post to get it off, good for you! Two bolts out, two loose and you should be ok, I would watch the linkage on the back of the engine ;-)

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            • #7
              Watch the linkage on the back of the engine

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Big hammer View Post
                Watch the linkage on the back of the engine
                Well, after posting the question, I went again and looked a bit closer. I am thinking I need about 1½ to get the new pulley on so I might take all the rear mount bolts out, just to be on the safe side. See, this frame is surprisingly straight and I wouldn't want to kink it or possibly break the flywheel housing. Always better to be safe than sorry.
                You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

                Comment


                • #9
                  When I had to lift the front of mine I took all the bolts from the flywheel housing to the mounts out. Also removed the throttle linkage before I started. Check your brake and clutch pedal for clearance as well the park brake. Not sure what model year you have but mine is an early 29 that has the rear trans housing with a lip that hangs the crossmember.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Dennis View Post
                    When I had to lift the front of mine I took all the bolts from the flywheel housing to the mounts out. Also removed the throttle linkage before I started. Check your brake and clutch pedal for clearance as well the park brake. Not sure what model year you have but mine is an early 29 that has the rear trans housing with a lip that hangs the crossmember.
                    I have a July '28 Tudor that has the same lip and I think I have enough room to lift it the required distance without bending anything. See, I was ahead of the game when I removed the spring clamps and crank guide, that cut about an inch off the height needed to get the new pulley on.

                    Now I am wondering, I don't remember if there is suppose to be a washer between the bolt and pulley?

                    Damn, it is hell getting old and loosing those important braincells.

                    You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Some suppliers have a 2 piece pulley that screws together with a L/H thread. Looks stock & easy to install!
                      To get a stock one off, pull it forward & cut it off with a Saws-All, EASY!
                      Bill Easy

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                      • Mitch
                        Mitch commented
                        Editing a comment
                        there ya go that's an option.

                        i know a guy that saw zawed his waterpump in half to avoid messing with the radiator. He then used the fake water pump studs when reinstalling the new parts

                    • #12
                      In additions to all the suggestions above, I would recommend that while you spend this much effort and time, that you go one step further and go back with a new steel one piece "billet" crank pulley. That way you can be done with that forever.
                      Alaskan A's
                      Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska
                      Model A Ford Club of America
                      Model A Restorers Club
                      Antique Automobile Club of America
                      Mullins Owners Club

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