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  • Painting rear axle.

    The paint has largely worn off my rear axle and pumpkin. It’s very clean and zero rust. I want to keep it this way.
    Im looking for suggestions on how to repaint it correctly.
    Its on lift.
    Drain and fill plugs are removed.

    Can I now thoroughly degrease then tape off and paint with POR from rattle can?

    do I need to prime?
    is there a better paint you all might recommend?

    Thanks,
    Curly

  • #2
    One thing I failed to ask—. The bolts on pumpkin, and where the driveshaft connect to pumpkin, are not painted. I’d rather not paint them if possible. How?

    Comment


    • #3
      I painted my cars with Rustolium black gloss paint. The bolts would be painted also, as I believe the entire axle and torque tube were assembled then painted at the factory prior to installation in the car. It holds up very well and is easy to touch up with a brush.

      Comment


      • #4
        I usually do what Ed mentioned
        3 ~ Tudor's
        Henry Ford said
        "It's all nuts and bolts"


        Mitch's Auto Service ctr

        Comment


        • #5
          To mask various parts when painting, I learned a trick many years ago from a bodyman.
          I use a small model maker's paint brush, and brush grease on the parts that don't get painted.
          You can wait hours, days, or years, then wipe off the grease. If it's going to be stored for a long time, the grease will keep it from rusting.
          BTW, I'd rather use Rustoleum than POR, but the best is PPG primer and paint.
          Last edited by Tom Wesenberg; 11-03-2017, 09:15 AM.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Curly View Post
            The paint has largely worn off my rear axle and pumpkin. It’s very clean and zero rust. I want to keep it this way.
            Im looking for suggestions on how to repaint it correctly.
            Its on lift.
            Drain and fill plugs are removed.

            Can I now thoroughly degrease then tape off and paint with POR from rattle can?

            do I need to prime?
            is there a better paint you all might recommend?

            Thanks,
            Curly
            POR works on rusty metal with clean and degreased metal Rust-Oleum or engine enamel will work better

            Comment


            • #7
              Many of you know that Miles and I paint entire cars and many panels a year here, and have accumulated a lot of experience in this area over a 20 yr period. He does well supplementing his dealership job with private paint work.

              We discovered that Baril Coatings makes a hi-quality line of Direct-to-Metal paint (DTM) that comes in many colors, and some paint shops have a mixing bank and can make any color you want. Black is the easiest of all, of course, right out of the can.

              Once we tried the Baril line, we never looked back. It is single stage, high solids, lays down very nicely, and is nearly indestructible. A thin layer of surface rust is acceptable to paint over, but nothing with rust flakes. I test shot a large section of badly rusted channel iron 4 years ago and left it outside, having used no prep at all, and the paint is on there solidly, I can't even chip it off.

              No primer is needed. Use a naptha-based degreaser, which is what all the brands of automotive pre-cleaner are, regardless of the type of color coat you plan to use. Remove all rust scale, and do an even better rust prep than that if you wish with a product like Ospho. This paint is a high quality urethane.
              You can use it over primer if you wish but it is not required. If you ever want to remove it, you will need to media blast it, it is tough as nails. Our motto is do it once. Imagine saving the step of shooting primer when you are painting wire wheels!
              It has a nice gloss to it. Remember, if you ever want a coating with less gloss, the auto paint shops have a de-glossing agent you can add

              Miles and I had some mixed up in a baby blue that we are gonna shoot on the Studebaker M5 pickup we are restoring. It can be buffed in the usual manner.
              Just find a local supplier.

              For modern cars we still use basecoat-clearcoat, especially since most colors now have some metallic in them

              http://www.barilcoatings.com/
              Last edited by tbirdtbird; 11-03-2017, 10:34 AM.

              Comment


              • #8
                Wonderful advice gentalman. Glad I asked.

                I will see if I can find Baril. If not I will use the Rustolium Ed suggested.

                Just to clarify, the bolts on drive shaft and pumpkin should be painted? If this is factory correct then I will paint mine.

                My bolts that that connect the driveline tube to the pumpkin have a hole and there is a wire running through them. It’s a safety precaution often used in the aviation world. Is this just my truck or do others have this?? Is it factory correct?

                Comment


                • #9
                  that is standard

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Curly View Post
                    ...My bolts that that connect the driveline tube to the pumpkin have a hole and there is a wire running through them. It’s a safety precaution often used in the aviation world. Is this just my truck or do others have this?? Is it factory correct?
                    Curly, Let me know if you want to borrow my tool & wire.
                    You do not have permission to view this gallery.
                    This gallery has 2 photos.
                    Alaskan A's
                    Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska
                    Model A Ford Club of America
                    Model A Restorers Club
                    Antique Automobile Club of America
                    Mullins Owners Club

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Thanks Carl. I’m on the mend from knee replament right now but in a week or two I’d love to borrow it. Much appreciated.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        My 1931 Parts Price List lists the bolts as plain, so no paint or plating. What does the Judging Standards say?

                        What did Mark and Val do on the 28 high point Roadster?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Interested to hear from those who know the judging standards on painting bolts.

                          If it’s no paint then I’ll need to mask them off. I don’t think I’d dare remove them for paint for fear of then needing to disassemble and replace gasket.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            "The torque tube mounting bolts were safety wired.
                            The torque tube, rear axle differential housing and
                            rear axle housings were painted as an assembly,
                            including bolts, safety wire and gaskets."

                            This is directly from the JS, so clean it all up, and squirt to your hearts content.
                            You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              DaWizard,
                              The paint goes right over the wire? All bolts are painted?
                              Since I have the ears of the experts, would the factory black paint be gloss or satin?

                              Comment


                              • DaWizard
                                DaWizard commented
                                Editing a comment
                                What I quoted is what it said. So, assemble it, paint it, done.

                            • #16
                              I powder coated my rear axle, backing plates, torque tube, frame, radius rods and whatever else was there

                              rear.jpg
                              3 ~ Tudor's
                              Henry Ford said
                              "It's all nuts and bolts"


                              Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                              Comment


                              • Curly
                                Curly commented
                                Editing a comment
                                That looks so nice Mitch. What will it be when it grows up?

                            • #17
                              ( QUOTE)::Curly commented
                              Yesterday, 11:57 PM
                              That looks so nice Mitch. What will it be when it grows up? (QUOTE):

                              Curly thanks
                              Here is what it became:

                              https://www.vintagefordforum.com/for...or-build-diary
                              3 ~ Tudor's
                              Henry Ford said
                              "It's all nuts and bolts"


                              Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                              Comment


                              • #18
                                Originally posted by Curly View Post
                                DaWizard,
                                The paint goes right over the wire? All bolts are painted?
                                Since I have the ears of the experts, would the factory black paint be gloss or satin?
                                The assembly is painted whole.

                                Black semi-gloss is the color.

                                And I'm not an expert, just someone who bought and reads the Standards.

                                -Tim

                                Comment

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