Blown Fuse affect timing ???

[lpl87]

Well my A stranded me again today !!! Getting old. When I got it home the fuse on the starter had the end blown off. My voltage had been looking high on the
alternator 10 amps but I thought it was just an inaccurate guage. Replaced the fuse but it won't start. Did something like this 3 months ago & it ended up the timing was off.
Is there a connection ??? Not sure if I am cut out for this after all. Please HELP !

[Mitch]

The first thing you need to do is check for spark and fuel.
Are you running a stock distributor?
Do you have a test light?

[lpl87]

Stock distributor but new style points. Have a voltage meter.

[Dave in MD]

What was the starter mounted fuse that you are using rated at. Most of use 30 amp fuses.
Dave

[lpl87]

20 amp

[Mitch]

Check for spark by holding the coil wire 1/4" from a head nut. Then crank it with the key on and you should have a nice blue spark, then report back

[lpl87]

OK will check it tonight

[tbirdtbird]

should be 30 amp,
you can have voltage spikes that will erroneously blow a fuse,
plus what Mitch said

[lpl87]

Do I need to check the generator output also

[Mitch]

Lets start with getting it running first, then what Dave said

[Patrick]

This problem should not effect the timing. Install a 25 or 30 amp fuse and check for spark as Mitch described. If you now have spark see if it will start. Then we'll go from there.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I would install a 30 amp fuse, as Dave said, then install a 20 amp fuse at the cutout to feed the lights/horn terminal.
Now a short in the lights will blow the 20 amp fuse, but the engine won't loose spark, so you can drive home OK.

[lpl87]

Just tried to put in 30 amp fuse & saw sparks so another fuse shot, I know this means a short but where ?????

[Mitch]

Isolate the area of the short. Disconnect the light circuit off your alternator and try again..

[Mitch]

Or better yet remove all the wires and try

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Usually, when "something" doesn't work, 6 Guys blame the Condensor or the Timing?????---LOL---FIRST, is PROPER DIAGNOSIS, the cart always follows the horse or the leash always follows the Dog!

[lpl87]

Took lights off generator & still sparks. Both wires off still sparks.

[tbirdtbird]

more thoughts...
-always carry a spare fuse
- better yet Mitch has a PN for a circuit breaker, be sure to put it in the correct way, one side says load
-the easiest way to find a short is to remove the fuse or CB, bridge the 2 fuse holder terminals with a light bulb, any light bulb, and keep disconnecting wires from peripherals until the light goes out. You are using the short to light the light bulb. The bulb will NOT blow with this method
This works equally well on house wiring

This is an old school electricians trick; have found many shorts with this method

the most common areas of shorts are the headlights, the back of the ign switch, the brake light switch

[Greynomad]

Have a look at the terminal box on the firewall. Sometimes the screws come lose and short against the body. Might be worth having a look at the ammeter too, if it is a repro.

[Mitch]

[Mitch]

Okay here is a stock wiring diagram, since you removed the wires from the alternator you eliminated the entire light and horn circuits as well as the alternator itself.

Make sure your fuse holder is not coming apart and grounding anywhere's.

the yellow wire goes from the fuse to the r/s PASS of the terminal box, through the ammeter back to the l/s DRIVER of the term box then back to the alternator. You need to isolate the short either by removing the yellow wire at the term box or go to the ammeter.

If you have a 12v test light place it across the fuse holder and when the short goes away the light will go out

[lpl87]

Mitch , GOOD CALL on the ammeter. 1 of the connectors had melted. Once I disconnected it it started right up. THANK YOU !!!!
I might be able to sleep tonight after all. Larry

[tbirdtbird]

when you reattach the wires to the ammeter, be sure the star lock washer is between the body of the ammeter and the ring connector of the wire, NOT between the ring connector and the nut, as is too commonly done. The old school way is the best way and will prevent the ring terminal from walking around back there as you shove the wires and the panel back up against the gas tank to attach the 4 screws

[Mitch]

Glad you found it
Make sure your wiring going down in the tunnel is not fried.
You also may have a bad Ammeter

[Mitch]

This is one we had that fried the meter and the harness going down the tunnel and out to the junction box. Make sure your wiring is all kosher.. Look inside the junct box cover as well.


This guy was driving his car when the cabin filled up with smoke. He pulled over and got out, left the doors open for it to air out. Then once the smoked cleared he continued to drive the car for another month..LOL



meter.jpg

[tbirdtbird]

was his life insurance paid up?

[lpl87]

Update ! With the ammeter unhooked car starts & runs no lights though. Changed the bulb in the tail light still nothing. Does the ammeter have to be working

& hooked up for the lights to work ?? Yes I did reconnect the lights to the generator.

[Mitch]

Earlier you said that the car had an alternator?

Connect the two ammeter leads together with a small machine screw and nut. Then test it
If you have a generator and run the car without it connected to the battery circuit it will burn up

[lpl87]

Generator not alternator. So do I still need to connect both ammeter wires ??

[Mitch]

yes , other wise you cut the circuit off

Think of a straight piece of wire with the ammeter connected in the middle. Now you remove the ammeter and the circuit is broken, you lost continuity to the other end