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With my work light in the engine compartment, inside the car I checked the firewall for "leaks". I was surprised to see lots of light along the seam where the firewall bolts together. Is there a factory seal missing? With everything together, I imagine it will be difficult to insert a seal. Perhaps a careful application of silicone caulk?
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I use double sided friction tape and use a machinists rule to make sure both mating surfaces are reasonably flat. RodLast edited by Rowdy; 10-30-2017, 01:25 PM."Much of the social history of the Western world, over the past three decades, has been a history of replacing what worked with what sounded good." Thomas Sowell -
originally there was NO seal, remember these were all new parts and fit together perfectly. nothing was used back at the factory and i don't recall hearing of any complaints on squeaks, I would as rowdy says use today friction tape when ever metal hits metal to avoid anything...Originally posted by slammin View PostComment
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Ya know, I was thinking about the same thing the other day and wondered to myself, why not use Gorilla tape across the inside seam. Should work well as that stuff hooks up better than the duct tape. Just needs a bit of cleaning first to be sure it has a clean surface.You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!Comment
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Friction tape would be used IF he was going to dis-assemble the two halves, I would think the gorilla tape on the inside flat where it can't be seen. JMO
Paul in CTComment
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Since the car is painted and assembled, short of a clear caulk, I won't be putting anything between the joint. I need something almost invisible. I'll look into Gorilla tape. I hope they make something close to Vagabond green.Comment
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Gorilla tape is pretty strong stuff and it make take your paint off when removing it. How about a little thin strip of dumb-dumb inside? This can be pressed into the crack and wiped clean afterwards you wont even see it.
Just a couple more thoughts to throw on the pileComment
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I was going to post the dum-dum idea also. If I did anything, that's what I'd use. I never drive my cars in the cold weather, so I wouldn't worry about a small opening. Our roads are already white with road salt, so no more old car driving for the next 6 to 7 months.Comment
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Where can you buy dum dum today ?Comment
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You can get it at any professional auto parts store or online
https://www.amazon.com/3M-08578-Blac.../dp/B000PEZ1L4 -
It's DUM-DUM & at any body shop supplier & maybe even at NAPA. Cars couldn't exist, without DUM-DUM! It's fun to stuff your blow gun with it & shoot it at the wall. We used to have DUM-DUM "WARS"--LOL
Dad Dum-dum
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Menards has a similar putty in the electrical department. It's used to seal the holes where wires enter a wall or box.Originally posted by Mark Maron View Post
I think auto parts stores sell a 3M product that comes in long thin strips.
In the 70's I installed several aftermarket A/C units in cars, and a handful of dum-dum always was included in the kit.Comment
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Has any one had good luck with the one pice rear main seal ? Like 100% success.01-20-2018, 09:56 AM -
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I'm installing rear wheel hub seals right now and I have a question. I searched the Chassis and Powertrain tech areas, but no luck. Maybe I'm too stupid to do an efficient search??
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How close should I trim a front rope seal? I usually use one piece seals.
John01-16-2018, 05:18 PM -
We used the new teflon type rope seals on a new motor with about 100 miles on it. Nice drip which runs down the oil pan front and no leaks elsewhere. It was put in according to all posted info. and greased very slightly. The leak is blackish oil. Is this normal with this type of seal. We ran out of the old style rope and the 2 piece pulley looks ok. Any suggestions ?...10-23-2017, 11:23 AM
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Anyone have a tip for removing the old rear hub grease seal.08-04-2018, 11:24 AM
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Background: Late '31 CCPU indented firewall
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