There might be nothing wrong with a welded freeze crack, but I'd pass on it. How much has that crank been turned? What's the bore? A lot of things to take into consideration. I've seen a few complete A engines at the swap meet for $75.00 How do you know without looking at everything what you are getting besides a scrap piece of iron?
I do not want to get into bashing people. So I,m going to say the model A engine is one of the hardiest to get right when rebuilding them. You could do 2 chev small blocks or Ford small block to 1 model A engine, that is if you do it right. Every one always says how simple they are. But they are not simple to get right....
The engine I got has some serious pitting on the top of the block. I would like to know just how much surface I can remove to get rid of that pitting?
I am thinking most of you will say just find another block or engine, and I might do that depending on what my surfacer says it will cost me. We will see.
Just wondering about how much power do you think one should expect a stock A bottom end to hold up to with fair reliability? The are lots of ways to extract more beans from the A engine, but hat bottom end is pretty whimpy. Or a touring car, no racing involved, do you suppose the bottom end can take, say, 80 hp? 100?
I've got a neat little blower, meant for a Miata, but never used,...
Regarding the engine project, details including the last 2 updates when the project was resurrected and other details can be found at: www.modelaengine.com
John (our team member responsible for manufacturing and quality assurance) will be leaving for China on Friday, Sept 6.
I have a cracked block left side of engine leaking water . May try Blue Devil Block sealer . Any other suggestions other than a new block. I used it last year for a sand hole casting leak in the valve adjusting chamber worked out good so far over 2000 miles on that repair .
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