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  • Exhaust Leak

    I have a leak between the tail pipe and manifold pipe connection. Do I put the sealer on both pieces or just the tail pipe ? Thanks in advance

  • #2
    Well Mr. Bill you're going to get a few different replies and theories on how to tackle your leak.

    I use the little insert pipe with no sealer and it's good to go. It does not obstruct the flow as some have said in the past. When using the insert, the muffler has to be aligned properly with the manifold or it will not go together. I am sure you know that your clamp has two sides with the larger going around the manifold lip. Dad likes using silly putty JOKE but i hate the mess and can accomplish the same thing without it.
    This is my way and i am not budging
    3 ~ Tudor's
    Henry Ford said
    "It's all nuts and bolts"


    Mitch's Auto Service ctr

    Comment


    • BILL WILLIAMSON
      BILL WILLIAMSON commented
      Editing a comment
      I detest your SILLY PUTTY remark! I use the connector pipe & exhaust sealant inside the flange & it DOESN'T make a MESS!!--I'm clean & fussy, so THERE!
      When puttin' on the clamp, grease the inside of it & tap on it as you tighten it & DON'T buy the CHEEP Clamps!---Be sure to re-tighten it, after a few days.
      Dad Tickedoff

  • #3
    I had and insert pipe that I put in maybe 15 years ago. When I took the clamp off the insert pipe was loose as a XXXX , I found my pipe speeder that has been hiding for twenty years or more and now it it a tight fit ! Still have a leak in one section.

    Comment


    • Mitch
      Mitch commented
      Editing a comment
      You prob need a new insert, or maybe the flanges are distorted. could the leak be from another spot?

  • #4
    If the manifold begins to sag, and they all do eventually, you may not have good mating of the surfaces....they need to mate for the entire 360° circumference. If you wanted to try sealer, it makes no difference which or both surfaces you apply. In my experience the stuff usually is just forced out by the hot gasses. Per Mitch check the orientation of the clamp, I have even got it on upside down once or twice, it makes a lot of difference

    Comment


    • Mitch
      Mitch commented
      Editing a comment
      Absolutely correct on the droop. I try not to reuse old manifolds

  • #5
    For what it's worth, the instructions that come with the Aries mufflers say not to use any gaskets or internal mating pipes, only muffler paste or sealant at the mating surfaces.

    Comment


    • #6
      I have found in the past if I had an exhaust leak it was either because the clamp was loose or the pipe wasn't aligned properly. So I always crawl underneath and look up hold the pipe flange against the exhaust manifold or block it up or hold it up with a floor jack to make sure it is in the best position with the exhaust manifold. Then I measure from the side of the muffler to the frame. I make sure clamps on the rest of the exhaust pipe are in the correct position. That way I can check after I have tightened the clamp if the muffler has moved out of position so that if need be I can correct it. I thought the sealer back a long time ago was a joke. I guess it has it's qualities and I have tried it a couple times, seems to work but only if the pipe flange is where it is supposed to be.

      Comment


      • BNCHIEF
        BNCHIEF commented
        Editing a comment
        One thing that can contribute to an exhaust link is having the rear clamp tight on the muffler they do make a clamp with an asbestos type lining or line your won that tailpipe and muffler are going to expand and it has to go somewhere.

    • #7
      I guess it is time for an update. Took a lot of tries but got the muffler bolted correctly after applying the muffler cement. I waited about four hours and started it right up and it sounded GOOD ! I started it later on during the day and raced it up and boom the whole exhaust fell off. I got a new muffler that has been sitting around for about ten years so that is going on.








      Comment


      • George Miller
        George Miller commented
        Editing a comment
        You might have to bend the pipe to fit the exhaust manifold. Also the best way I have found is use a floor jack to hold the muffler up and in place. Make sure you have the clamps the right side up.

    • #8
      We just installed a new muffler on friends car; had to bend the pipe to mate with the manifold and aligned it by eye to make sure the mating pipe and manifold were in straight lines while checking to see that the mating flange to manifold was equidistant as possible. We tied the muffler up to the brake cross shaft with stiff insul. electrical wire while smearing muffler paste on the flanges and then a thin coat on the bracket halves at the joint. Meanwhile the rear tail pipe was loosely wired until the front tight. Ran the car and then let it cool a bit and retightened the brass bracket nuts. We didn't use the insert pipe this go around. We found a variety of the new tail pipe clamps were too tight and / or rattled, so we fabricated a flex one from some angle strap and a Napa off the shelf stiff rubber hanger.
      Last edited by plyfor; 10-29-2017, 06:46 PM.

      Comment


      • #9
        I had a whole host of problems with my muffler until I realized that it was an old, bad repo without an adequate flange where it attaches to the manifold. I took the muffler to a muffler shop nearby and they flared the end more and I have not had a minute's trouble since. I should buy a new Aries, but I have been too cheap to do so.

        Comment


        • #10
          The new standard Aries are very good though you may need to bend the up pipe slightly as in post 8 even with a new manifold. In the old days, we'd take asbestos hvac duct wrap and slip it in between the flanges and or wrap the flange joints which would allow the clamp to still fit. On stubborn conditions,the newer non asbestos wrap from vendors may be too thick so we've tried oil lamp wick just around the flanges joint only (and a little paste) cut about 1/4 to 3/8 wide so as not to interfere with the clamping function.

          Comment

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