On my way to Tennessee for work yesterday I stopped by and met Charlie. He is in my backyard here in Cincinnati. Since I have the roadster now I have the hankering to build a motor and put some period speed in it. I am keeping the roadster stock and going to look for a project car to put this motor in. Anyone on here play with speed parts?
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On my way to Tennessee for work yesterday I stopped by and met Charlie. He is in my backyard here in Cincinnati. Since I have the roadster now I have the hankering to build a motor and put some period speed in it. I am keeping the roadster stock and going to look for a project car to put this motor in. Anyone on here play with speed parts? -
I have a few copies of "Secrets of Speed" magazine recommended to me by Mr. Charles Yapp back in the 1990's.
If anyone is interested, this wonderful gentleman's magazines have some very unique and interesting articles based on past Model A engine experiences written by vintage and present Model A speedster mechanics and engine builders, plus many other interesting technical articles not often mentioned on Model A Forums.
Mr. Yapp had published an article on how to make the much improved front brake floating wedge stud, (A-2051-F), long before they were offered in Model A parts catalogs.
I made my own front brake floater kit years ago based on his article which greatly improved equalizing front brake pressure similar to that of the function of the rear brake equalizing cam. -
Only to the extent of using a 5.5 or 6.0 head, larger intakes, double counterweighted crank (BB style), Stipe IB330 cam, FSI dizzy, modern style pistons with modern style rings, lightened flywheel, no. They do some wacky stuff at SOS.
I actually once installed just the IB330 cam with no other mods to a friends motor and I couldn't believe how such a simple change woke that motor right up. I think even more than just a high CR head by itself. Well, no, of course I could believe it, since the cam governs how the engine breathes, and we all know how important that is, it was just a revelation.
Now, I had quit talking about this when at the other site because it seemed everyone on there jumped down my throat for what I did. In fact I remember every comment and every poster. I was even getting hate mail. But I know that won't happen here. LOL I had even preceded my explanation of what I had done with a disclaimer, "if you don't like engine mods, read no further". Lotta good that did
George Miller may be one of the few who could truly appreciate what I had done, since he is also an engine builder, in fact waay better than meLast edited by tbirdtbird; 10-25-2017, 09:52 AM.Comment
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Tbird i appreciate fine engine building and quality work, I do not tell other people what they should do, but a lot of people nowadays feel inclined to do just that. I enjoy seeing all the different ideas. A lot of people would put a riley ohv head on a model a then chastise you for what you are doing.
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Well, I come out of there with a cast iron 6.5:1 head, cast iron headers, and a 2 barrel intake manifold. I love my stock roadster, but need to play with a project.Comment
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That's where Wiz's rear main article in the tech area came from here is the link
3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctrComment
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I am trying to understand the speedster thing. I love the period hot rods, but I'm having a hard time with the speedster. These were aftermarket body kits back then? Like a modern day dune buggy VW conversion?Comment
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as far as I know, yes. Even the T had after market speedster body kits. I helped out an elderly gentleman years ago who had just such a T in his very varied collection of As and Ts. He had it from new on a 1921 T
As soon as someone found out how to motorize a set of 4 wheels, the speed guys were all over it, regardless of the era.
After all, virtually all the 'performance' equipment we have come to accept as standard on production cars today, originated with the speed guys long ago, such as overhead camLast edited by tbirdtbird; 10-25-2017, 12:35 AM.Comment
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T's, A's, & Vintage Secrets of Speed & Performance: Hmmmmmm?
I knew a gentleman who performed ASTM Laboratory Testing for soil for foundations, structural steel welds, & concrete.
As far as "Secrets of Speed", to follow the Speed Racing Rules at this large metropolitan Race Track, he also carefully drug tested all of the race horses!Comment
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I have a 1926 dykes, that has 11 pictures of body modifications, and the chapter dedicated to “ speeding up old cars” including ford.Comment
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I love hot rods, made my own over head cylinder head. Done a lot of hill climbs. If you want a hot flat head, you need to raise the compression, big intake valves, a good two barrel down draft, and of course a Bill Stipe cam. Also take some weight off the flywheel. If you want it to live you should use a counter weighted crank.Originally posted by dmdeaton View PostComment
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George my son is moving to NC where are you located if you do not mind saying.Comment
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The largest collection of speed equipment for T's and A's is in the Museum of American Speed in Lincoln NE. Otherwise know as Speedway Motors. They also host the Speedster Reunion every other year. Next one is in 2019. There's a great photo in the current issue of SOSS of the participants in the year's Reunion. Charlie Yapp drove his speedster to the event. There is something about doubling the HP of an A engine that is very satisfying. The engine in my avatar put out 60 HP at the rear wheels with a single 97. My other A has a CRAGAR and put out 59 HP at the rear wheels. Word of warning: hod rodding a Model A engine can become addictive and the rule of thumb is that you could buy two SBC crate motors for the price of building a stout A engine!
Here's the link to the museum: http://www.museumofamericanspeed.com/Last edited by Denis4x4; 10-25-2017, 10:14 AM.Comment
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I have never been there Dennis but it is on my list.Comment
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The delight of a speedster is that in building one, it frees you from the constraints of originality. If you have restored a car or two, you will be aware of the subtle pressure from like minded ilk to make the finished car an accurate portrayal of the car when it first left the factory.
Then there are speedsters and speedsters; some look like they are little more than a chassis with a couple of seats mounted on them, perhaps a cheap way of utilising surplus parts or a set of running gear purchased minus a body? But others are true creations with a body designed and built by the owner.
Ours is such a speedster intended as a multi-purpose car used for long distance touring, club rallies and speed events. It is also intended to be able to cruise with modern traffic and not be a mobile chicane.
Ultimately it has almost certainly cost more than restoring an original car, but every time one modifies or improves a component there is a flow-on effect and it all costs!
KeithComment
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Our speedster has been on the road two years now and has covered approximately 10,000 miles through both Islands of New Zealand and has been constantly improved. It cruises happily at 60mph with the F150 gearbox in 41% overdrive and despite no roof, with the vee windscreen we keep reasonably dry at speeds over 30mph. Otherwise at traffic lights, out comes a big umbrella whilst we're stationary much to the amusement of other motorists.
Recent worthwhile improvements have been the harmonic balancer pulley and the Mallory distributor, both contributing to a smoother motor and improved performance.
KeithYou do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 9 photos.Comment
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Looks like you have some cool boatbuilding skills also! I have build a few sailboats.Comment
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I've had no real training in wood working, but find wood easier to work with than metal. The body was made in one piece, radiator to tail and then the door and bonnet cut out with a jigsaw. Strip planking is a relatively simple way to create a multi-curved shape in wood, but many many hours go into the fairing up afterwards using epoxy fillers and long boards for sanding (The West System)Comment
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So I have one of his heads coming in December (cast iron, 6.5.1). I also have Charlie's 2 barrel intake, cast iron headers, reduced diameter front pulley, and a new Stromberg 97 carb. I am going over to a friends this week to pick up a A block from him and take it to have it magnafluxed. If it is ok, then it's off to Ron's machine shop in Shandon, OH to machine it for all the goodies. Haven't decided on the crank, rods and pistons yet, but I don't want anything radical. I think I am crazy, but I always drool when I see a nice vintage rod with a flathead in it.Comment
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What was his asking price?Comment
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Finally got the car on a weighbridge and it weighs 1995lbs with a full tank of gas. The lightest production model was the RPU which weighed 2073lbs with empty radiator and petrol tank. The tank on my car is considerably larger than standard and I would guess at 15 imp. gallons.
KeithComment
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Just out of interest I calculated the weight of coolant at 21lbs and the petrol at 109.35lbs giving a total of 130.35lbs which when deducted from my car's total weight gives 1864.65lbs and that does include the spare wheel which the RPU weight might not? That makes it 208.35lbs lighter than a RPUOriginally posted by wensum View PostComment
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