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Front pulley seal, new motor

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    Front pulley seal, new motor

    We used the new teflon type rope seals on a new motor with about 100 miles on it. Nice drip which runs down the oil pan front and no leaks elsewhere. It was put in according to all posted info. and greased very slightly. The leak is blackish oil. Is this normal with this type of seal. We ran out of the old style rope and the 2 piece pulley looks ok. Any suggestions ?

    #2
    Had other thoughts ; has anyone tried the Best Gasket graphite rope seal ? Also, we've used Speedi Sleeve on other projects to build up worn shafts and not sure that would work instead of replacing the pulley which cost wise is about the same price.

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      #3
      I know Best makes a good product so i would research their rope seal. I don't have any experience with those but i would do the new pulley VS a sleeve.
      3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
      Henry Ford said,
      "It's all nuts and bolts"
      "Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."

      Mitch's Auto Service ctr

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        #4
        Originally posted by plyfor View Post
        We used the new teflon type rope seals on a new motor with about 100 miles on it. Nice drip which runs down the oil pan front and no leaks elsewhere. It was put in according to all posted info. and greased very slightly. The leak is blackish oil. Is this normal with this type of seal. We ran out of the old style rope and the 2 piece pulley looks ok. Any suggestions ?
        Did it need to be trimed?

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          #5
          I have not found the 'rope' seals of the last 15 years to be any where near as good at sealing as they were 30 yrs ago. I used to have to really work to get the timing cover down over the seal; no longer. I think they are being cut too short.
          I have been putting a layer of 1/16" gasket material behind the rope seal, to beef up the diameter a bit

          Comment


            #6
            tbird you are correct; the asbestos was in the "old" rope seals and that's why they're no longer available. Out teflon seals were a little over size and sealed with permatex (no rtv) at the end mating surfaces and fit snug. We barely could get the timing cover on due to no give in the teflon. I 'm now thinking the teflon is perhaps too slick and doesn't have any grip at the pulley. The modern seal that was installed by prior folks wouldn't seal either. But we may have to go to a new pulley, polished and/ or the sleeves. The Dura sleeves are chrome alloy and the speedi sleeves are stainless I believe.
            Some vendors have a screw- in 2 piece in their catalogues and a slot type fit which not sure which is preferred. Some used to cut a groove in the pulley to force the oil back but not sure about that with the teflon type. I checked with Best gasket today and they supply the teflon in their kits for the front, not the black graphite type.

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              #7
              I had the teflon in mine last did not have 200 miles and was leaking bad. It has a new pulley btw. I'm trying the new modern seal this time.

              Comment


                #8
                For the modern seals, if they are 2 piece (inner core), supposedly oil can get by the inner portion, so some suggest applying silicon sealant inside and reinstalling the core. Then bed the total seal in silcone (not rtv)in the timing cover, oil pan grooves. Any one tried this?

                Comment


                • Dennis
                  Dennis commented
                  Editing a comment
                  I've never heard of oil getting by between the inner and outer. The way it comes out of the bag should be just fine. You do need to seal the outside of the seal in the channel of the front cover and the channel of the oil pan. I use ultra black and mine is doing just fine, no leaks.
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