Fuel line question

[Allletters]

Good afternoon, I recently bought a new outside fuel line for the 1930 CC pickup I am building, now this may be a dumb question but do the ends need to be flared? I don't have an original to compare it to and all of the pictures I can find online are of new ones with no flare. I am having a small leak issue coming through the fitting in the sediment bowl. Any help is appreciated, Thank you.

[Patrick]

The replacements I see from the vendors come with the compression fittings.

[Allletters]

Thanks, so I should be able to tighten it a little more to cure the drip?

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

They are not flared, but compression. You may have to cut off the ring, and maybe an inch of the line, and start over. Don’t let the end of the tube go to far into the carb. And FYI, you can go to the parts store and buy steel brake line and fab your own.

[H. L. Chauvin]

See if this might help:

1. Go to Bratton's on line to observed "outside" gas lines are fitted with ferules.

2. Look at Bratton's diagram on how to "properly" upset ferrules.

3. Next, after time, original ferrules leak; hence look to where Bratton's offers 1/4 oversize ferrules which may help.

4. Go to Amazon to buy W.M. Harvey pipe stick sealant shown below, ($5.79), which is gas resistant.

6. Been using it on Model A gas lines and Model A gas tank shut off valves for over (63) years with no leaks.

7. Teflon tapes "after time", works about as well as using wet nylon stockings to repair Model A leaking tire tubes.

8. See below

[Mitch]

#1 See this post on setting the ferule distance.
https://www.vintagefordforum.com/for...1019#post11019

I have found that the Repo sediment bowl units have the ferule seat to deep. This oversize one works great

https://www.brattons.com/1-4-oversiz...e-ferrule.html

[Mitch]

P.S.

This is another option for an original part.

https://www.vintagefordforum.com/for...0949#post20949


You should not need any sealer or such with a flared or ferule connection

I use those oversized ferules all the time. They are great and fit the standard line. Pricey tho.. tried finding them elsewhere but had no luck

[Marco Tahtaras]

If the fittings on your line have a cone shaped inner end then stop now. You may be able to get those fittings off if the cone end hasn't pinched the line too tightly. That type of fitting should NEVER be used on a gas line. The proper fitting uses a separate ferrule that gets permanently pinched on the line.

I've never had a problem with ferules leaking with a dry installation. Original gas lines had the ferrule soldered on the line due to the seamed construction. That overlap seam left a small passage that the ferrule couldn't seal.

index.jpg
gas-line.jpg

[Allletters]

If the fittings on your line have a cone shaped inner end then stop now. You may be able to get those fittings off if the cone end hasn't pinched the line too tightly. That type of fitting should NEVER be used on a gas line. The proper fitting uses a separate ferrule that gets permanently pinched on the line.

I've never had a problem with ferules leaking with a dry installation. Original gas lines had the ferrule soldered on the line due to the seamed construction. That overlap seam left a small passage that the ferrule couldn't seal.

index.jpg
gas-line.jpg

It does have the cone shaped fittings, I will try the ferrules tonight

[Mitch]

The repo lines have those ferrules attached to the brass nut. They are supposed to break from one another when tightening but that does not always happen. I have separated them manually first, and even used them as a unit..

[Marco Tahtaras]

The repo lines have those ferrules attached to the brass nut. They are supposed to break from one another

I had someone bring me a new line 8-10 years ago that came with solid cone end fittings, but I had good fittings and ferrules here so that's what was used.

The gas line on our cars is something that is commonly removed for a variety of servicing. I know that the conventional fittings and ferrules can withstand those cycles for many decades for those that aren't prone to over tightening.

[Bob C]

I think these are the ones Marco says not to use in post #8.

[DaWizard]

One word !! DO NOT try to snug up the ferrule using the glass bottom sediment bowl! Before you get the ferrule pinched you WILL blow out the threads of the sediment bowl.

Instead, use the fitting on a Zenith carburetor as it is cast iron and the threads will hold up better to pinch the ferrule. IF you have something other than a Zenith for a carburetor, good luck.

Best thing is either the steel sediment bowl or Zenith carburetor.

[Marco Tahtaras]

I think these are the ones Marco says not to use in post #8.

I don't believe I've ever seen the ones Mitch spoke of, but the idea doesn't inspire confidence for me as I ponder the engineering options.

[Greynomad]

A tiny droplet of Permatex #3 and it's all done and no drips (well, maybe the one driving!)

[Poor Boy]

DaWiz. You are 100% correct, and I am not going to tell you how I know.

[H. L. Chauvin]

Appears most of us would wish to compliment Mr. All Letters for his brave and humble reporting of a Model A fuel leak hereinabove, thus generating so many Model A fuel leaking helpful responses for all of us.

For years, many of us have read Leak Topics on past Forums for fuel, oil, coolant, and tire tube leaks where a responding Model A owner declares that after his Model A restoration, he never experienced one leak.

Any Model A owner having a firm desire to fully compliment any such present and/or future type of "Rare" Model A mechanic and owner, Amazon.com (below), has specially crafted "Certificates of Award" one can kindly mail to this individual for his declared, 100 Percent perfect Model A work!

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[Mitch]

I don't believe I've ever seen the ones Mitch spoke of, but the idea doesn't inspire confidence for me as I ponder the engineering options.

I’ll see if I can dig one out tomorrow

[Big hammer]

I’am wondering what people are using to tighten the lines, a line wrench, an open end wrench, an adjustable wrench, or OMG a pair of pliers( a coworker used pliers to tighten way to many things)

[gdaquilina]

I’am wondering what people are using to tighten the lines, a line wrench, an open end wrench, an adjustable wrench, or OMG a pair of pliers( a coworker used pliers to tighten way to many things)

I have used a flare nut wrench as well as an open end wrench. Main idea is to avoid over tightening.

[Mitch]

A line wrench should always be used on a compression fitting. Being that there is a hole in the middle an open end wrench can crush or deform the tube nut. Then it will start to slip

[1930 Closed Cab PU]

A line wrench should always be used on a compression fitting. Being that there is a hole in the middle an open end wrench can crush or deform the tube nut. Then it will start to slip

Thanks Mitch, learned something new today. Have never seen nor heard of a line wrench before. Googled it, makes sense. I think I will make my own using a closed end wrench and cutting or grinding a slot in it. i have some old spare closed end wrenches purchased at a yard sale.

[Allletters]

Thanks to everyone who commented, I replaced the fitting with a ferrule and can report no more GAS leaks, now to work on the others...

[CarlG]

Line Wrench is also called a Flare Nut Wrench

Flare Nut Wrench.jpg

[Tom Wesenberg]

I have used a flare nut wrench as well as an open end wrench. Main idea is to avoid over tightening.

That's the main problem with the break away nut-ferrule combination.
It often requires a very tight nut before the ferrule finally breaks off the nut and tightens to the line.
I always tighten the nuts on the cast iron parts, as mentioned, as the aluminum or die cast parts are too weak for the initial tightening.