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  • Fuel line question

    Good afternoon, I recently bought a new outside fuel line for the 1930 CC pickup I am building, now this may be a dumb question but do the ends need to be flared? I don't have an original to compare it to and all of the pictures I can find online are of new ones with no flare. I am having a small leak issue coming through the fitting in the sediment bowl. Any help is appreciated, Thank you.

  • #2
    The replacements I see from the vendors come with the compression fittings.

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks, so I should be able to tighten it a little more to cure the drip?

      Comment


      • #4
        They are not flared, but compression. You may have to cut off the ring, and maybe an inch of the line, and start over. Don’t let the end of the tube go to far into the carb. And FYI, you can go to the parts store and buy steel brake line and fab your own.

        Comment


        • #5
          See if this might help:

          1. Go to Bratton's on line to observed "outside" gas lines are fitted with ferules.

          2. Look at Bratton's diagram on how to "properly" upset ferrules.

          3. Next, after time, original ferrules leak; hence look to where Bratton's offers 1/4 oversize ferrules which may help.

          4. Go to Amazon to buy W.M. Harvey pipe stick sealant shown below, ($5.79), which is gas resistant.

          6. Been using it on Model A gas lines and Model A gas tank shut off valves for over (63) years with no leaks.

          7. Teflon tapes "after time", works about as well as using wet nylon stockings to repair Model A leaking tire tubes.

          8. See below

          Last edited by H. L. Chauvin; 04-05-2021, 02:21 PM.

          Comment


          • #6
            #1 See this post on setting the ferule distance.
            https://www.vintagefordforum.com/for...1019#post11019

            I have found that the Repo sediment bowl units have the ferule seat to deep. This oversize one works great

            https://www.brattons.com/1-4-oversiz...e-ferrule.html

            3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
            Henry Ford said,
            "It's all nuts and bolts"
            "Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."

            Mitch's Auto Service ctr

            Comment


            • #7
              P.S.

              This is another option for an original part.

              https://www.vintagefordforum.com/for...0949#post20949


              You should not need any sealer or such with a flared or ferule connection

              I use those oversized ferules all the time. They are great and fit the standard line. Pricey tho.. tried finding them elsewhere but had no luck
              3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
              Henry Ford said,
              "It's all nuts and bolts"
              "Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."

              Mitch's Auto Service ctr

              Comment


              • #8
                If the fittings on your line have a cone shaped inner end then stop now. You may be able to get those fittings off if the cone end hasn't pinched the line too tightly. That type of fitting should NEVER be used on a gas line. The proper fitting uses a separate ferrule that gets permanently pinched on the line.

                I've never had a problem with ferules leaking with a dry installation. Original gas lines had the ferrule soldered on the line due to the seamed construction. That overlap seam left a small passage that the ferrule couldn't seal.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Marco Tahtaras View Post
                  If the fittings on your line have a cone shaped inner end then stop now. You may be able to get those fittings off if the cone end hasn't pinched the line too tightly. That type of fitting should NEVER be used on a gas line. The proper fitting uses a separate ferrule that gets permanently pinched on the line.

                  I've never had a problem with ferules leaking with a dry installation. Original gas lines had the ferrule soldered on the line due to the seamed construction. That overlap seam left a small passage that the ferrule couldn't seal.

                  It does have the cone shaped fittings, I will try the ferrules tonight

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    The repo lines have those ferrules attached to the brass nut. They are supposed to break from one another when tightening but that does not always happen. I have separated them manually first, and even used them as a unit..
                    3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
                    Henry Ford said,
                    "It's all nuts and bolts"
                    "Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."

                    Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Mitch View Post
                      The repo lines have those ferrules attached to the brass nut. They are supposed to break from one another
                      I had someone bring me a new line 8-10 years ago that came with solid cone end fittings, but I had good fittings and ferrules here so that's what was used.

                      The gas line on our cars is something that is commonly removed for a variety of servicing. I know that the conventional fittings and ferrules can withstand those cycles for many decades for those that aren't prone to over tightening.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I think these are the ones Marco says not to use in post #8.
                        You do not have permission to view this gallery.
                        This gallery has 1 photos.

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                        • #13
                          One word !! DO NOT try to snug up the ferrule using the glass bottom sediment bowl! Before you get the ferrule pinched you WILL blow out the threads of the sediment bowl.

                          Instead, use the fitting on a Zenith carburetor as it is cast iron and the threads will hold up better to pinch the ferrule. IF you have something other than a Zenith for a carburetor, good luck.

                          Best thing is either the steel sediment bowl or Zenith carburetor.
                          You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Bob C View Post
                            I think these are the ones Marco says not to use in post #8.
                            I don't believe I've ever seen the ones Mitch spoke of, but the idea doesn't inspire confidence for me as I ponder the engineering options.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              A tiny droplet of Permatex #3 and it's all done and no drips (well, maybe the one driving!)

                              Comment


                              • #16
                                DaWiz. You are 100% correct, and I am not going to tell you how I know.

                                Comment


                                • #17
                                  Appears most of us would wish to compliment Mr. All Letters for his brave and humble reporting of a Model A fuel leak hereinabove, thus generating so many Model A fuel leaking helpful responses for all of us.

                                  For years, many of us have read Leak Topics on past Forums for fuel, oil, coolant, and tire tube leaks where a responding Model A owner declares that after his Model A restoration, he never experienced one leak.

                                  Any Model A owner having a firm desire to fully compliment any such present and/or future type of "Rare" Model A mechanic and owner, Amazon.com (below), has specially crafted "Certificates of Award" one can kindly mail to this individual for his declared, 100 Percent perfect Model A work!

                                  -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------







                                  Comment


                                  • #18
                                    Originally posted by Marco Tahtaras View Post
                                    I don't believe I've ever seen the ones Mitch spoke of, but the idea doesn't inspire confidence for me as I ponder the engineering options.
                                    I’ll see if I can dig one out tomorrow
                                    3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
                                    Henry Ford said,
                                    "It's all nuts and bolts"
                                    "Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."

                                    Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                                    Comment


                                    • #19
                                      I’am wondering what people are using to tighten the lines, a line wrench, an open end wrench, an adjustable wrench, or OMG a pair of pliers( a coworker used pliers to tighten way to many things)

                                      Comment


                                      • #20
                                        Originally posted by Big hammer View Post
                                        I’am wondering what people are using to tighten the lines, a line wrench, an open end wrench, an adjustable wrench, or OMG a pair of pliers( a coworker used pliers to tighten way to many things)
                                        I have used a flare nut wrench as well as an open end wrench. Main idea is to avoid over tightening.

                                        Comment


                                        • #21
                                          A line wrench should always be used on a compression fitting. Being that there is a hole in the middle an open end wrench can crush or deform the tube nut. Then it will start to slip
                                          3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
                                          Henry Ford said,
                                          "It's all nuts and bolts"
                                          "Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."

                                          Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                                          Comment


                                          • #22
                                            Originally posted by Mitch View Post
                                            A line wrench should always be used on a compression fitting. Being that there is a hole in the middle an open end wrench can crush or deform the tube nut. Then it will start to slip
                                            Thanks Mitch, learned something new today. Have never seen nor heard of a line wrench before. Googled it, makes sense. I think I will make my own using a closed end wrench and cutting or grinding a slot in it. i have some old spare closed end wrenches purchased at a yard sale.

                                            Comment


                                            • #23
                                              Thanks to everyone who commented, I replaced the fitting with a ferrule and can report no more GAS leaks, now to work on the others...

                                              Comment


                                              • #24
                                                Line Wrench is also called a Flare Nut Wrench

                                                Flare Nut Wrench.jpg
                                                Last edited by CarlG; 04-06-2021, 04:08 PM.
                                                Alaskan A's
                                                Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska
                                                Model A Ford Club of America
                                                Model A Restorers Club
                                                Antique Automobile Club of America
                                                Mullins Owners Club

                                                Comment


                                                • #25
                                                  Originally posted by gdaquilina View Post

                                                  I have used a flare nut wrench as well as an open end wrench. Main idea is to avoid over tightening.
                                                  That's the main problem with the break away nut-ferrule combination.
                                                  It often requires a very tight nut before the ferrule finally breaks off the nut and tightens to the line.
                                                  I always tighten the nuts on the cast iron parts, as mentioned, as the aluminum or die cast parts are too weak for the initial tightening.

                                                  Comment

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