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  • gas valve rebuild

    It's a rainy day so I was going thru a box of parts for my 31 Victoria and found the original gas shut off valve. The valve is stuck in the open position and I can't budge by by hand. I can loosen the handle and the bigger nut under the handle. How are these rebuilt. ?

  • #2
    It is tapered inside, like an old stove gas valve. With the top and bottom disassembled you should be able to tap it apart. Use a lead or plastic hammer. Be careful not to bugger up the threads. Little bits of rust/crud cut groves as the valve is turned, creating leak passages. Depending on how deep, you may or may not be able to lap them out with fine valve grinding compound. If you get that far you can further refine the finish lap with toothpaste.

    I have fixed a few with nasty grooves by tinning the grooves full of 95/5 solder and then carefully redressing the profiles. You need to eliminate the grooves in BOTH the body and spindle. Rubbing paraffin (birthday candle!) on the spindle before reassembly helps lube it a bit as you fiddle with the adjustment.

    Now the downside- If you do manage to clean it up to a good sealing surface, the first time you put it in an 80 year old A and it encounters a spec of rust in shear while closing you will cut a new leak groove.

    Comment


    • #3
      Shouldn’t the filter prevent that from happening again?

      curious;

      Brian French
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      This gallery has 1 photos.

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      • DaWizard
        DaWizard commented
        Editing a comment
        Brian, you are correct, the filter should prevent that happening again, but the pieces are soft brass so it doesn't take a rock to cut a leaking groove, just a leetle pebble and you have a gorge worth of hanging up and leaking.

    • #4
      MikeK X2

      Be sure to install a finger filter that fits in the top of that valve into the tank.
      Last edited by DaWizard; 10-22-2017, 06:25 PM.
      You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

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      • #5
        Thanks for the info. I did get it to move but have not been able to get it apart yet. Not sure how you could tap it apart with a hammer.

        Comment


        • DaWizard
          DaWizard commented
          Editing a comment
          OH NOOOOO not a hammer, I just use a pair of pliers to pull the valve from the body.

          You have the style with the large nut and packing, not the early '28 style with the spring and cotter pin.

      • #6
        Art FYI you originally posted this thread in the Model A for sale area, so i moved it for you. You'll probably get more advice here
        3 ~ Tudor's
        Henry Ford said
        "It's all nuts and bolts"


        Mitch's Auto Service ctr

        Comment


        • #7
          Thanks Mitch, I got the valve apart with some gentle tapping. Thanks VFF !

          Comment


          • #8
            The filter on the valve is a bad idea. It is just a band aid and does not fix the problem of the dirt and reduces the range you can drive on one tank.
            Flush the tank a number of times. I put a ball valve on and put stuff in and shook the car. Got most of the stuff out.
            Then I put a short pipe on the original valve so the dirt can not settle into the valve.
            Run for a while, years, tank fulls and monitor the stuff trapped by the original filter screens. The amount of stuff trapped goes way down after a short while.
            Once the amount of stuff being trapped by the original fuel filter seems to be way down. Take out the pipe so you can use all the fuel in the tank.

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