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Front oil slinger

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  • Front oil slinger

    So I got the new 2 pc. crank pulley, (threaded type) to avoid pulling the radiator, and I am removing the cam shaft cover and then dropping the pan at least enough to install the new oil slinger. I am assuming there isn't one on the crankshaft now, since the old one broke at the offsets and the ratchet nut was very tight on the pulley, is there anything else I should know? I have the Les Andrews Book and the Jim Schild one as well,l but they only address the oil slinger from a complete reassembly perspective, not just a replace or new install with the engine still in the car. I will address the reuse, verses a new oil pan gasket, when I drop the pan enough to tell how it fares when I drop it, it doesn't leak now except at the front seal so I'm thinking if the pan separates without the gasket tearing I might just leave it as is. If I find there is already a slinger on the crank what else should I be looking for as a cause of the old one failing? I buy all my parts from Brattons ans as far as I know it was a good quality pulley. The engine is about a 5 year old complete rebuild, came with all the spec's documented from the rebuild and runs well, so I don't want to fix what's not broken.
    I'm a fairly well experienced "shade tree mechanic" since the 60's but I really not confident fooling with the Main Bearings unless I have to. Thanx in advance for any advice.

  • #2
    The slinger is a plate next to the crankshaft gear that goes between the gear and the pulley. You need that slinger no matter which front main seal you install. If you don't use it your pulley may not tighten because the nut will bottom out on the end of the crankshaft. When you assemble everything to your crankshaft, tighten the nut to the recommended torque of 80 ft. lbs., remove the nut and check to be sure the pulley protrudes beyond the end of the crankshaft.


    • #3
      Your slinger is most likely already in place (99.9%) so dropping the oil pan may just be extra work for nothing. Look into the front of the timing cover opening you should see it in there or pop the side cover off to look. Personally i never reuse gaskets after they are torqued, they are cheap enough to purchase to ensure a good seal.
      3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
      Henry Ford said,
      "It's all nuts and bolts"
      "Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."

      Mitch's Auto Service ctr


      • #4
        Well I pulled the front cover and looks like no slinger in place. It has the "modern rubber seal" but no slinger so I will definitely have to drop the pan and put on the new one that I ordered with the new pulley.
        See attached photos.
        Thanx Mitch and Dennis for your info!
        As I understand the the oil slinger would be in front of the seal, cup side facing the radiator, directly behind the pulley shaft, and after torgueing the pulley nut, then remove it and verify that the pulley shaft is protruding past the crank.
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        • #5
          Correction, I meant to say the slinger goes between the gear and the seal with the open cup side facing out.Sorry


          • #6
            You might want to slide that seal forward to get a better look anyway, but if I see it correctly the slinger might be on backwards. Either way as Mitch said, replace the seal, slinger, and pan gaskets and front cover gaskets. Don't forget to install the tool to hold your oil pump before you drop the oil pan. It screws into the side of the block in the middle from front to back just above where your oil pan bolts to.


            • #7
              Dennis, you and Mitch were correct, after a fresh look this morning and further prodding there is a slinger against the pulley but unlike the new one, that has a pronounced cup or dish to it, this one is almost flat and is on backwards. That may have been a factor in the small oil drip from the front seal but shouldn't have caused the old crank pulley to break.
              If after I install the new slinger and check the pulley, if it's still not protruding beyond the crank, should I add another slinger to it to get it past the crank? Sorry, just thinking ahead.
              I'll pull the plan and replace all the gaskets when I reassemble it and I'm tempted to replace the new seal with the original rope style, any thoughts on the pro's or cons? Also thanx for reminding me about the oil pump bolt I may have dug into it and not remembered that step.
              This site is the best, can't thank Mitch and you, all the folks here enough for the being so willing to share their time and knowledge!
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              • Mitch
                Mitch commented
                Editing a comment
                Don't think to far ahead
                I would test fit the new pulley while the cover is off to make sure the end of the crank is not protruding out to far

              • Dennis
                Dennis commented
                Editing a comment
                A lot of the Model A engine rebuilders have switched to the modern front oil seal. I had a rope seal with a 2 piece front pulley and it leaked. It might have been how I installed it, but it was dry at first and later leaked after 2,000 miles. I would advise to stay with the modern front oil seal. I wouldn't install more than one front slinger. Just assemble things the way they should be and you should be ok. If you go back together with a 2 piece pulley, trial fit the pulley to it's mating part. There will be a better fit one way but not the other. I don't remember if you mentioned where the front pulley broke.

            • #8
              It broke at the tabs on the interlocking notches. I 'll be sure to put a new seal on either way. Thanx!
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              • #9
                I haven't seen the oil slinger installed backwards before, but you see all kinds of stuff done to these poor engines. Be sure to install the new slinger, then the pulley before you reinstall the pan and front cover. The last two engines I worked on had damage done by someone forcing the pulley on without having the notch lined up with the key. I always use the rope seal and it never leaks for me. I install it dry and fit it by hand into the groove, then pound it into shape with a socket the same diameter as the pulley. I then squirt oil on both rope halves, then apply a good coat of grease.

                In 1974 I had to replace the timing chain on a fully loaded Pontiac V8. (Thanks to GM for plastic coated sprockets) After removing all the accessories, brackets, and timing chain, then replacing everything....................I spot the oil slinger laying next to the vice. Talk about a fun day. NOT


                • #10
                  wow that sure is etched into your memory, Tom, bet you can remember the date and day, too.....
                  I hate it when I do stuff like that

                  those plastic tipped sprockets were great for having bits break off, jam up the oil pump, and then seize the motor due to lack of lube. There sure have been some incredibly stupid ideas tossed around in Detroit


                  • dmdeaton
                    dmdeaton commented
                    Editing a comment
                    My mini cooper had a plastic tipped timing chain tensioner that chipped off and plugged the oil pump, wore a hole in the timing cover, which in turn seized the motor. Bad day

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