For the last few weeks I have been having a small problem with the light switch on the bottom of the steering column and yesterday I decided it was time to attack it.
So, I remove the switch, start to clean it up, and remove the switch plate and disassemble the whole thing. Well, very little oil between the tang plate and insulating plate, but that is all. So, I get out the test light to be sure I have the proper connections into the headlights. Everything on the up and up.
In cleaning the switch tangs took note of one side just a weeeeee bit loose, break out the soldering iron and solder both brass tangs to the rotater plate and reassemble the plate into the top of the bulb.
Cleaned the switch plate still in the car, made sure there was clean brass for contacts, finished up with installation and all works just fine.
Now, here is where it actually twisted my brain. I have the '28 4 pole contacts in the switch!
If any of you have paid attention to the switch plate, it has 12 detents, and with the after market switch bulb and the later switches they have a 3 tab switch. Well, this would work great because it would give you the 4 position light switch. But with my 4 pole switch, I stared at the wiring diagram and couldn't figure out how the guy wired the switch to only give me the on-off-on 3 position switch, but he did. Kudos to the wire harness manufacture because when I ordered the harness for a '28 with turn signals he made it right!
I may just open back up the wiring diagram and spend some more time trying to figure just how it was done so if I run into troubles in the future I have a better idea how to attack them, but then, I may not.
I didn't mean to be so long, just kinda wanted to plant a seed about the differences in the 4 pole and 3 pole switches and their function.
I have just sat and stared at the wiring diagram for the Model A, and because that 4 pole switch only gives you 3 positions, there is NO way the pictured wiring diagram of the light switch would work with the 4 pole switch, so I am thinking the diagram is for the '29-'31 3 pole switches!
So, I remove the switch, start to clean it up, and remove the switch plate and disassemble the whole thing. Well, very little oil between the tang plate and insulating plate, but that is all. So, I get out the test light to be sure I have the proper connections into the headlights. Everything on the up and up.
In cleaning the switch tangs took note of one side just a weeeeee bit loose, break out the soldering iron and solder both brass tangs to the rotater plate and reassemble the plate into the top of the bulb.
Cleaned the switch plate still in the car, made sure there was clean brass for contacts, finished up with installation and all works just fine.
Now, here is where it actually twisted my brain. I have the '28 4 pole contacts in the switch!
If any of you have paid attention to the switch plate, it has 12 detents, and with the after market switch bulb and the later switches they have a 3 tab switch. Well, this would work great because it would give you the 4 position light switch. But with my 4 pole switch, I stared at the wiring diagram and couldn't figure out how the guy wired the switch to only give me the on-off-on 3 position switch, but he did. Kudos to the wire harness manufacture because when I ordered the harness for a '28 with turn signals he made it right!
I may just open back up the wiring diagram and spend some more time trying to figure just how it was done so if I run into troubles in the future I have a better idea how to attack them, but then, I may not.
I didn't mean to be so long, just kinda wanted to plant a seed about the differences in the 4 pole and 3 pole switches and their function.
I have just sat and stared at the wiring diagram for the Model A, and because that 4 pole switch only gives you 3 positions, there is NO way the pictured wiring diagram of the light switch would work with the 4 pole switch, so I am thinking the diagram is for the '29-'31 3 pole switches!
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