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  • Heres one for ya.

    For the last few weeks I have been having a small problem with the light switch on the bottom of the steering column and yesterday I decided it was time to attack it.

    So, I remove the switch, start to clean it up, and remove the switch plate and disassemble the whole thing. Well, very little oil between the tang plate and insulating plate, but that is all. So, I get out the test light to be sure I have the proper connections into the headlights. Everything on the up and up.

    In cleaning the switch tangs took note of one side just a weeeeee bit loose, break out the soldering iron and solder both brass tangs to the rotater plate and reassemble the plate into the top of the bulb.

    Cleaned the switch plate still in the car, made sure there was clean brass for contacts, finished up with installation and all works just fine.

    Now, here is where it actually twisted my brain. I have the '28 4 pole contacts in the switch!

    If any of you have paid attention to the switch plate, it has 12 detents, and with the after market switch bulb and the later switches they have a 3 tab switch. Well, this would work great because it would give you the 4 position light switch. But with my 4 pole switch, I stared at the wiring diagram and couldn't figure out how the guy wired the switch to only give me the on-off-on 3 position switch, but he did. Kudos to the wire harness manufacture because when I ordered the harness for a '28 with turn signals he made it right!

    I may just open back up the wiring diagram and spend some more time trying to figure just how it was done so if I run into troubles in the future I have a better idea how to attack them, but then, I may not.

    I didn't mean to be so long, just kinda wanted to plant a seed about the differences in the 4 pole and 3 pole switches and their function.

    I have just sat and stared at the wiring diagram for the Model A, and because that 4 pole switch only gives you 3 positions, there is NO way the pictured wiring diagram of the light switch would work with the 4 pole switch, so I am thinking the diagram is for the '29-'31 3 pole switches!
    Last edited by DaWizard; 10-18-2017, 01:06 PM.
    You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

  • #2
    That's right about the contact plate and from what I learned in the past from Tom Wesenberg the only place that makes to my understanding the correct harness with the correct contact plate for a 28 early 29 is in Sacramento (???). Tom will correct me if I'm wrong on that. I ran into this problem a year ago and ended up changing the switch because at the time I couldn't find a source for a harness that had the contact plate I needed.


    • #3
      Sacramento Vintage Ford was fabricating their own harnesses ; 888-422-6437. They just moved to a new street address a few weeks ago.


      • Dennis
        Dennis commented
        Editing a comment
        Thanks plyfor

    • #4
      SVF makes the correct harness, but as far as I know, nobody makes the contact plate for the fluted headlamps. I was lucky enough to find 2 NOS contact plates at one of the Model A national meets about 15 years ago. Doc also had a couple of the early contact plates for sale about 5 years ago.

      I'll see if I can find my pictures showing the different contact plates and 3 and 4 contact spiders.


      • #5
        Here is what I have for the fluted light switch.

        You do not have permission to view this gallery.
        This gallery has 1 photos.


        • #6
          Thanks Mike. That's one of my pictures I was looking for.
          I also posted a picture of the later 4 position light switch and used my usual green background. Do you happen to have that picture saved also?

          That lousy photobucket destroyed all my posts before about 2013 by no longer showing the pictures.
          I couldn't even find my pictures by using Google. My old computer with those pictures is packed away and hard to get to.


          • #7
            Well, since I now have everything working very well, I am NOT taking it apart to find out how mine was wired. I only know that whoever made my harness did a fantastic job keeping the circuits separated! I should call Moss and find out who made the harness, but then, maybe not.

            Great information guys, as usual, not much gets by this crowd.

            You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!


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