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Early 28 rear end

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  • Early 28 rear end

    I bought complete front and rear ends not needed by a hot rodder. It's all in good condition and I have pulled the front end apart, got the bits I needed and went to start on the rear end. My shackle holes are very worn in my bells. Plan was as the car this all came out off was that good and everything looked in that good shape to just put the complete rear in and keep the current one for spares. When looking closer I notice the radius rods looked even smaller than I remember of mine. Sure enough, look under my car confirms that. Then I notice no e brake stuff and the penny dropped. Question is are the bells, axles and centre ect the same and worth keeping for spares or should I just move the whole rear end on to someone who is into early 28's .
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  • #2
    Oh yes, it is well worth keeping as it will work under your car nicely, just sell off the backing plates out and keep the center. One word though, the gear ratio in that will probably be 3.70:1 since that was the early ratio. Does it still have the speedo turtle, and is it embossed 10x37? That will tell for sure, unless you want to turn the driveshaft and count the axle turns.

    If you know anyone with a pre-June '28 left brake car, sell the whole thing to them as an original rear end.
    You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!


    • Manager
      Manager commented
      Editing a comment
      Raining today so Il'l look as soon as it fines up. Thanks.

  • #3
    Pm me if you want to sell the brake rod return springs


    • #4
      Backing plates and radius rods pretty desirable in some circles. Not sure how desirable down under. Bick in NZ has some early A's. Curious if the forged portion of the radius rods are embossed with Ford Canada, just Ford or nothing at all? As mentioned above the speedo drive should be different than the later ones. Kind of hard to find. Rod
      "Much of the social history of the Western world, over the past three decades, has been a history of replacing what worked with what sounded good." Thomas Sowell


      • #5
        The first and very early banjo housings were prone to cracking, they have no reinforcement gussets at the front flange. Axle housings are the same, I believe. Replacing would call for a carrier preload for sure. See Tom Endy's site, Maybe cheaper to have your shackle supports repaired, leaving rear end together ? Pat
        Model A's and of course the famous AA's


        • #6
          O.K. thanks all. Afew other things different other than the brakes and radius rods means I will just leave it for someone into early 28 I think. Il'l check the other things when it stops raining here. Thanks all.


          • #7
            I have a AR rear end and its cracked on the Diff housing, should I have it brazed and use it or search for another rear end?


            • #8
              Will, you should look for another. Something as critical as the alignments and tolerances in the rear end can't be trusted on a welded up rear end.

              It is nice having the 3:70 gear ratio.
              You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!


              • #9
                Nobody mentioned it yet, so I will. Notice the bolt pattern of the axle housings. Not the same as later housings.


                • #10
                  If you were not so far away, I could swap you a later rear end for your early.


                  • Manager
                    Manager commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Old thread that has been reopened pooch and I sold the rear end way back and repaired my hangers but thanks anyway.

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