I know there must be a secret to setting the little "C" clip, but I haven't figured it out. I know about the special tool, but I've seen as many pros as cons about using it. Berts doesn't offer it so I didn't buy one. I have threaded a piece of plexiglass thru the steering wheel to keep the rod assy in place. It looks like I need to compress the springs in the contact plate as well as the big spring behind the spider. Any help would be appreciated. This is the only thing keeping me off the road.
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I just did mine with no tool and by hand. I did ingest my Wheaties beer beforehand
Using Tom W's method of supporting the light switch as you are doing really helps
That spider spring is not that hard to compress IMO.3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctr -
Some have written that it is simply a case of leverage. You just slide a yard stick across the top of the switch and steering wheel and it presses down enough for you to leverage up the spring with the spider to get the C clip on. It has worked for me in the past.You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!Comment
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one guy was trying to install the spider upside down....check for thatComment
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I did get the spring, spider and clip installed! I did have to remove a little material from the clip so it would fit into the counterbore in the spider. Now when I assemble the halves of the switch and attach it to the column, everything binds and I can't move the light lever. I even tried to assemble it without mounting it on the steering. As soon as I turn the wire end to lock it together, I can't to rotate the contacts. I'm thinking I should have spent $16 on the Chinese POS instead of $46 on the "good" US made switch! I guess I'll Brattons a call and see if they have any ideas.Last edited by slammin; 10-16-2017, 02:16 PM.Comment
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I spent a half hour on the phone with Walter from Brattons with out a solution. He is going to send me another US made switch as well as an import so I can try to get one of them to work. Unfortunately I ran all the wires to headlights, tail light, brake switch, etc before trying the light switch. The bale was back ordered and I wanted to get the rest of the project finished while I waited on that final part!Comment
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Let us know (or post pictures) how the two compare.
Years ago I was helping a friend with his repro light switch, and his was also very hard to turn.Comment
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Not trying to steal the thread, but what about the little copper bushing the vendors sell that goes at the top of the steering shaft. Mine didn't have one and I was wondering if it's needed to take up more space. I didn't have a problem with my light rod, it even has a few kinks in it and I'm replacing it with a repo. I've been told by some people it needs to be there or your light rod will follow the steering shaft. So what's the best answer?Comment
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You will find that the repo rod will need a little sanding on the stem where the bushing rides. On the last one i ran sone 80 grit on it to take it down. I have also needed to sand the squared end to fit the spider correctly in the past. I wouldn't put it together without that little bushing. Some synthetic grease in that area is also prudent.Originally posted by Dennis View Post3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctrComment
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Slammin before I did any thing ran wires etc I put some dilectric grease on the contacts as Mitch said, I also assemble the whole thing together and use a 1/4" extension and a t-handle to operate this switch and make sure it works freely before going any further, if it is hard to turn this way it is not going to be any better with a long horn rod trying to turn it. Also on the light plate examine it and make sure the contacts are recessed even or slightly below the bakelite they are housed in if that is a problem a jewelers file or very very light work with a dremel will help also polish up the bakelite a little. On the contacts in the switch make sure they are smooth no bump or distortion. Put it together use the little driver i mentioned and check again. You can remove the wires from the bakelite plate just mark them for reference or take a picture. As dennis said bushing under the horn in the steering shaft, As Mitch said sand until it fits and works smoothly it will take some work, when it is right you should be able to turn the wheel without the light switch turning and switching lights on. Let us know how things come out had the same issues your having so been done that and yes you will be able to get it to work.Comment
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I worked on an A where the thin bushing was missing, and the light switch did tend to follow the steering wheel on turns. The bushing fixed that problem.Originally posted by Dennis View PostComment
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have you seen the NEW Light switch that Brattons now sells. OUTSTANDING workmanship and can be used at either end with an original part...Really looks great.Ill., Region MARC & MAFCA
MARC JSC Member
MAFFI Trustee
National Facebook Admin.Comment
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Mark, One Bratton's US made switches is the subject of my battle. Granted it looks great, but so far hasn't worked! I could have saved 30 bucks by buying the import unit. Those dollars would have purchased a case of good micro-brew beer. probably a porter. That would have come in handy after yesterday's struggle!Comment
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When you buy that little C clip, buy several. It never fails that if you don't have extras, the one and only that you have will fly across the room never to be found again. Just having an extra will insure that doesn't happen.Alaskan A's
Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska
Model A Ford Club of America
Model A Restorers Club
Antique Automobile Club of America
Mullins Owners ClubComment
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I found the open ends of the clip were squared instead of round to fit in the recess of the spider. I filed that outer portion of the clip just enough to fit in the spider. My problem still exists with the rod at the top. I changed my steering shaft because it was boogered up pretty bad on both sides of my worm gear. I tried to get the worm off the shaft but she's really stuck, even followed Rowdy's advice. So rather than spend more to repair my old shaft I gave in and bought a new shaft and worm assembled. The OD was bigger and ID is smaller than my old shaft and I now know why my horn rod has very little room to fit in the steering shaft. While I haven't put the column back in the car yet or tried it with my light switch attached, I believe the majority of my problem is not the bushing but instead the end contact of the horn rod against the end of the steering shaft. You constantly have a thrust load in that area with the spring tension at the bottom end pulling the horn rod against the steering shaft. I wonder if I put a thin stainless washer up under the lever would help?Comment
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Dennis, I would recommend 2 thin brass shims if you have something like that that will work. Think about the resistance in assembling the gas gauge type brass shims, a little oil and that should do the trick.
Thinking about it, do you have any leftover main bearing shims? That should be about the right size hole and all you need do is cut the outer diameter to fit.You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!Comment
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I have those shims, but the hole diameter is too big. Trying to think maybe rod shims would probably work better. Nope they won't work either, no hole just a notch. Anyway just tried it with the column out of the car connected to the switch, everything works just fine. Good idea though for the washers, except the like materials rubbing against each other I don't know about.Last edited by Dennis; 10-17-2017, 07:46 PM.Comment
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Ok here's what I ended up doing. Horn rod turns easy in the steering shaft no drag or anything like that just the contact of the horn rod against the end of the steering shaft would turn the rod. So I found in my bins some mylar washers, .013" thick and a brass washer .030" thick. They fit perfect on the rod. I put some grease on it and assembled everything, spring spider and c clip. Without the light switch attached I can now turn my steering wheel and my switch lever will not turn, and that is WITHOUT the switch clipped on! The mylar washer is in the middle. Ignore the stainless washer in the picture, it did not get used. IMG_2998-2.jpgLast edited by Dennis; 10-18-2017, 12:34 PM.Comment
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WooHoo !! I knew we could do it if we only put our heads together..png "smile")
You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!Comment
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I stumbled onto this tonight when I was looking for something else regarding hardware. In the steering gear section starting on Page 6 continuing on page 7 starting with 7 tooth and not sure if the paragraph beginning on top of page 7 is for just 7 tooth, they show a part number A-22267 description Lighting switch handle washer.png "eek")
. Dimensions are 3/8 (1/64 x 23/32) W-20 which is a plain washer qty 1, and a finish S-7 which is cadmium plate. There is a note of 102 after the finish code that describes introduced June 1930. 1/64" thick is darn thin about .015". So I looked down the 2 tooth paragraph, nothing mentioned. So the paragraph with hardware between 7 tooth and 2 tooth is common to both and difference noted for E28. Which means the washer would apply to all year from 1928 - 1931. I don't have a service bulletins so don't know what or if anything exists there. I know just 
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This gallery has 1 photos.Last edited by Dennis; 10-19-2017, 01:39 AM.Comment
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The saga continues. I received another USA made light switch as well as an import model from Brattons. Some jobs in the shop are keeping me from working on this project. I did discover when the gear box was assembled, they put the end plate on upside down, so the alignment notch is on the top! I am going to turn it 180, but will order a gasket and some 600W before I tear it apart. The steering wheel is a real POS. While the assembly is apart, I might as well buy a new steering wheel and fix everything at the same time. It's just one damn thing after another!!!You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 1 photos.Comment
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If it's a two tooth and it doesn't have the end plate you should install it. It helps to prevent leaks into the switch if your not familiar with it
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Mitch,
Unfortunately its a 7 tooth, making the car an early 29. I didn't see any "before" pictures, so I assume it was a complete car, but could have been a pile of parts prior to the 1995 restoration work. The box of receipts that came with the car has lots of paper from Snyders, Brattons and Berts. It looks like most of the "small" stuff is repros, which is OK. I wanted a driver not a fine points winner. -
I had a lot of end play on my steering shaft and found the bushings were in the worst shape on both ends. As a result the steering shaft was chewed up also. Beings you want a driver and not a fine points car, you might consider looking into a Randy Gross F100 steering box. The amount of money you spend on the 7 tooth might disappoint you in the end. Randy's makes a much better steering box in the end. I'm not sure if this is a good number 323-726-5712. Randy is world renowned for his brakes and steering boxes.
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I checked into the Gross F-100 box. It sounds great and will probably go on my wish list. I need to find a more lucrative pan-handling corner before I can afford one!Comment
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