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  • $17.03 including S&H

    Is what it cost to fix my cracked block. No leak and no overheating now. Either I did it right or this stuff is foolproof but time will tell as everything else is. Received directions and enough for repair of the crack from:


    Ryan Frevert

    General Manager

    Antique Engine Rebuilding

    847-674-6716

    He swore it's far better than JB Weld. I don't know personally but he does. Thanks to Mitch for putting me onto Antique Engine Repair out of Skokie, Illinois.

    Ed
    "Bullshit and Brilliance Comes with Age and Experience"

  • #2
    What is the product used or is it proprietary to AER?

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by plyfor View Post
      What is the product used or is it proprietary to AER?
      It's called Titanium Putty and it's offered on the market. He buys in bulk and sells it in smaller amounts.
      "Bullshit and Brilliance Comes with Age and Experience"

      Comment


      • #4
        Holy cow................that stuff better be good. Now, who's going to glue some valve heads together to compare it to JB Weld?

        Comment


        • Mitch
          Mitch commented
          Editing a comment
          Tom how many are you going to get? Just think of the unlimited things you can build with that stuff. Heck you can even put your Gennys together without bolts LOL

      • #5
        Originally posted by Tom Wesenberg View Post
        Holy cow................that stuff better be good. Now, who's going to glue some valve heads together to compare it to JB Weld?

        http://www.ebay.com/itm/10760-gray-t...EAAOSwyltZVQRS

        I believed that's why he sells it in smaller amount to the average guy, I wasn't going to buy that much for the crack I had.

        I'm just back from another run, eight miles round trip, never saw the mercury at all in the motometer. Returned, check the rad with a meat thermometer, 161, rose to 169 after sitting. Today's temp outside was 58 so far. No leak that I can see............so far, in fact, no leaks at all anywhere after sitting for a month.

        I have an appointment for my Mechanic Certification Test next week!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

        :rolling
        "Bullshit and Brilliance Comes with Age and Experience"

        Comment


        • Mitch
          Mitch commented
          Editing a comment
          Were administering the Technician in a can test

      • #6
        I have a block that is cracked between a couple of valves if anyone wants to make a test.
        Alaskan A's
        Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska
        Model A Ford Club of America
        Model A Restorers Club
        Antique Automobile Club of America
        Mullins Owners Club

        Comment


        • DaWizard
          DaWizard commented
          Editing a comment
          You know Carl, after reading the description oh Ebay from the sounds of it you could use it to rebuild the valve area and still machine it to specs.

      • #7
        $17.03 including S&H???? S&H,, you mean like in Green Stamps?? I didn't know they were still around!

        Sounds like good stuff.

        Anything new on Tod's having a foundry casting a new Model A block? Haven't seen anything lately on the 'other' site. The Mustang guys tell me he has really good 351 castings out

        Comment


        • Michael M
          Michael M commented
          Editing a comment
          Waiting to amass enough S&H Green Stamps to buy something sure taught you patience! Although it was a great help if a neighbor or friend didn't collect the stamps but would set them aside for you.

        • Jeff/Illinois
          Jeff/Illinois commented
          Editing a comment
          It sure was. Mom would bring the coupon book home and we would look at all the neat toys in the book that you could get, but that never happened. Went to kitchen stuff, towels, etc.

          Oh well it was fun to see the toys!

      • #8
        Thanks. I wonder if this stuff would work in worn door hinge barrels. We tried another "high strength epoxy" to fill in the center barrel which was worn and then drilled it out for the standard size hinge pin. It worked ok until trying to remove the pin later as a test.The epoxy came out with the pin so adhesion is critical. We ended up sleeving the barrel with tubing.

        Comment


        • #9
          I flunked that 'technician in a can' test Mitch made reference to. During the practical I lost the plastic straw thingy from a spray can down the secondary of a wide open quadrajet on a big old Buick. I did get 89% on the snake oil identification part of the test.
          Mechanical engineering 101: If you put an adjustment knob, screw, bolt, or tolerance specs on something, some people will immediately fiddle with it. If you mark it DO NOT TOUCH everyone will mess with it.

          Comment


          • Mitch
            Mitch commented
            Editing a comment
            That's ok Mike,
            I lost many straws that got sucked into an intake nipple checking to see if the motor is running lean. They never ever hurt a thing being in there and probably just melt down and get sucked through.
            You passed in my book

        • #10
          Originally posted by Mitch View Post
          That's ok Mike,
          I lost many straws that got sucked into an intake nipple checking to see if the motor is running lean. They never ever hurt a thing being in there and probably just melt down and get sucked through.
          You passed in my book
          Back in the mid 80's I knew a guy that bead blasted his intake manifold on a Ford V8, and he didn't get all the glass beads out. The van started right up and ran fine for the 10 minutes he let it run. When he went to restart it a half hour later, he had no compression. The glass beads melted and solidified the rings to the pistons. He had to pull it all apart again.

          Comment


          • Mitch
            Mitch commented
            Editing a comment
            I'm surprised it ran good for 10 minutes

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