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  • Float-a-Motor

    Hey Bill, you awake yet?

    I am wondering, yesterday I installed the FaM from Bratton's, the ductile steel one, and noticed that the far rear mount has an barely interference fit to the cross member.

    Dig into your FaM memory and tell me about how much weight, if any, should be on the cross member?

    I have the ability to make a spacer thick enough to make the friction there as heavy as needed.

    Thanks, J.C.
    Last edited by DaWizard; 10-15-2017, 10:11 AM. Reason: caz i caint spel
    You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

  • #2
    Wiz on mine I found the front mount worked quite well, ductile steel like you have and the back mount an interference mount as you say. If it fits snug then it will help support the weight. I get no engine vibration out of my car but my crank is counter weighted and everything balance and is good if not over revving the engine.

    Comment


    • Mitch
      Mitch commented
      Editing a comment
      Wiz make sure your cranker-up hole still lines up

    • BNCHIEF
      BNCHIEF commented
      Editing a comment
      Good tip had to work on that myself and forgot that.

    • BILL WILLIAMSON
      BILL WILLIAMSON commented
      Editing a comment
      I "CANNED" the far rear mount & it worked well!---Do as you wish, I'm TIRED of FAM ARGUEMENTS.
      Bill Quiet

    • BNCHIEF
      BNCHIEF commented
      Editing a comment
      No arguments from me Bill it is not my car, the rear is not the best design but I do not think it does not hurt either.

    • Mitch
      Mitch commented
      Editing a comment
      Dadarooooni is our VFF Fam expert..

  • #3
    The last thing I checked yesterday was the hand crank line-up. It was perfect, just like I had not changed a thing!

    Chief, I do not have a balanced crank, and I found that the vibrations I do have have been moved from the steering wheel to the gas pedal, which is fine by me. Also, I have not tweaked it, or tried adjusting the weight around on the mounts either. That is something I will play with when I get used to the new feeling it gives me so I can determine how the adjustments I do affect the vibrations.
    You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

    Comment


    • Mitch
      Mitch commented
      Editing a comment
      Put rubber hose washers between the engine and your throttle control

    • BNCHIEF
      BNCHIEF commented
      Editing a comment
      That is a great idea Mitch Red Black, Rubber or the plastic thingy's

  • #4
    Well, I just finished a 20 mile jaunt across part of the county to get needed tools, and if I didn't know better, I'd say the engine seems happier to be driven. It wants to rev a wee bit higher in 1st, and in 2nd, and just feels like it wants to go faster. Now, I did sorta fill up the tank with the crap gas, and forgot to refill by measuring bottle of MMO, so it didn't get that boost, so I am attributing all this new found energy to the FaM.

    I don't care what anyone says, the FaM does make a difference, for the better!
    You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

    Comment


    • Mitch
      Mitch commented
      Editing a comment
      Now give her a good waxing and you'll really fly.

      Thanks for the report, Dad was right all along HEHE

  • #5
    The mounts perform with the new donuts; they should be checked perhaps every year or so to make sure they are not squashed and not too compressed.
    Do you have the stock front engine mount ?

    Comment


    • DaWizard
      DaWizard commented
      Editing a comment
      Yes, stock front Y mount, and about 5# weight on far rear mount. (I didn't pick it up to measure the exact weight, but after measuring I found I had a gap between the rubber and mount of .120 so I made a piece of .250 shim to give it some weight to the mount.)

    • DaWizard
      DaWizard commented
      Editing a comment
      Also, as a side note. The compression on the left side is donut snug plus 2 revolutions on the nut, right side, snug plus 1 revolution of nut.

      Snug=just unable to turn donut with hand.

    • BNCHIEF
      BNCHIEF commented
      Editing a comment
      Sounds good to me Wiz enjoy.

  • #6
    OK . Yes , we've found sometimes the rear rubber block needs a little help at the cross member.

    Comment


    • #7
      I've written LOOOOOOOOOOOOONG step by step directions of HOW I quieted Minerva, with FAMS, front & rear & a flexible exhaust hanger & step by step instructions on how to modify the mounting on the FRONTS! Instructions that the Manufacturer should include!---Hardly ANYONE replied, or said "DIDDLEY SHIT"!---If I sound PISSY, I AM!----GOOD ADVICE warrants an acknowledgement------My time is "VALUABLE"---LOL
      Back to our MOVIE!
      Bill Tiredtypin'

      Comment


      • Mitch
        Mitch commented
        Editing a comment
        If you would kindly repost your FAM tutorial here on the VFF I guarantee you will not only be acknowledged but your article could be enshrined in the tech forum.
        We appreciate great advice!!

      • CarlG
        CarlG commented
        Editing a comment
        I would be one to download and print out said instructions if they are placed here. I searched for them on the "other" site some time back, but could never find them.

        Thanks Bill, You are our hero!

      • BNCHIEF
        BNCHIEF commented
        Editing a comment
        I did not comment on your post Bill as I was busy having fun with the car ,but I can tell you I sure payed attention to what you wrote. Post it again the tech section would be great . I especially like that section because you do not have to hunt and search for advice or answers.

      • BILL WILLIAMSON
        BILL WILLIAMSON commented
        Editing a comment
        Due to popular demand, I'll post it AGAIN ! Soon as I complete the HOT deal, to sell VERMIN !
        Bill Rich

      • Mitch
        Mitch commented
        Editing a comment

    • #8
      Originally posted by BILL WILLIAMSON View Post
      I've written LOOOOOOOOOOOOONG step by step directions of HOW I quieted Minerva, with FAMS, front & rear & a flexible exhaust hanger & step by step instructions on how to modify the mounting on the FRONTS! Instructions that the Manufacturer should include!---Hardly ANYONE replied, or said "DIDDLEY SHIT"!---If I sound PISSY, I AM!----GOOD ADVICE warrants an acknowledgement------My time is "VALUABLE"---LOL
      Back to our MOVIE!
      Bill Tiredtypin'
      Dear Mr Bill Tiredtypin, could you post that article just one more time so that we could read it.

      Promise, we will reply.

      Comment


      • #9
        TIP# 187
        WELL, here goes!
        Added a flexible KZhaust hanger.
        Installed FAM rear mounts & "canned" the far rear rubber bumper "thingy" DON'T remember if I used the Cast Iron or the Alujimum rear mounts??? ("Probably" was the one that wuz CHEEPEST!)
        Bolted on the FRONT FAM bracket (It's much like the '32 4 Cyl mounting)
        "Centered" the engine & "determined" where to drill the 3/8" crossmember holes. NOW, IF you use the 3/8" holes, like the instructions say, the long bolts WILL transmit vibrations directly to the crossmember & it will be as NOISY as STOCK !
        Here's where my "MAGIC" comes in! With a Harbor Freight Uni-Bit, I enlarged the holes to 3/4" to let the Rubber Biscuits "squish" into, so the vibrations could be stopped in their TRACKS! I DID have to add 2 large flat washers, to center the Crank NUT.
        MINERVA was SO QUIET, like a DIFFERENT car!!! She didn't sound like she wuz "tearing" up her motor, past 45 MPH.
        Dad Tired

        Comment


        • Big hammer
          Big hammer commented
          Editing a comment
          Thank you very very much !

      • #10
        Mitch: can you explain a little more in detail where the rubber hose washers are placed for the throttle control ?
        Thanks.

        Comment


        • Mitch
          Mitch commented
          Editing a comment
          I never attempted this fix. I just came up with it (brain storm) as a suggestion for Wiz's throttle pedal vibration

      • #11
        Originally posted by BILL WILLIAMSON View Post
        TIP# 187
        WELL, here goes!
        Added a flexible KZhaust hanger.
        Installed FAM rear mounts & "canned" the far rear rubber bumper "thingy" DON'T remember if I used the Cast Iron or the Alujimum rear mounts??? ("Probably" was the one that wuz CHEEPEST!)
        Bolted on the FRONT FAM bracket (It's much like the '32 4 Cyl mounting)
        "Centered" the engine & "determined" where to drill the 3/8" crossmember holes. NOW, IF you use the 3/8" holes, like the instructions say, the long bolts WILL transmit vibrations directly to the crossmember & it will be as NOISY as STOCK !
        Here's where my "MAGIC" comes in! With a Harbor Freight Uni-Bit, I enlarged the holes to 3/4" to let the Rubber Biscuits "squish" into, so the vibrations could be stopped in their TRACKS! I DID have to add 2 large flat washers, to center the Crank NUT.
        MINERVA was SO QUIET, like a DIFFERENT car!!! She didn't sound like she wuz "tearing" up her motor, past 45 MPH.
        Dad Tired
        Thank you bill.

        OK everyone, now lets all respond to Bill's info so he feels the love.

        Comment


        • #12
          Bill I now understand your point about the front FAM after reading your explanation about the hole size in the frame. Now 28's and some 29"s (??) had the tab that reached up on the crossmember from the ujoint housing. If you don't install the ujoint far rear bumper don't you think it would help to cut the tab off to reduce vibration? You are the FAM guru meister and think you know best and THANK YOU FOR ALL THE FAM INFORMATION.

          Comment


          • #13
            Yes, Bill is the official FGM.

            FAM Guru Meister

            Talking about vibration. My rubber pads are on the outside of the frame. Shouldn't they be on the inside? Or doesn't it matter.
            Attached Files

            Comment


            • Dennis
              Dennis commented
              Editing a comment
              My directions said how yours are.

          • #14
            The pads are on the outside frame web as in post 13

            Comment


            • #15
              I'm a VIBRATION Master (braggin')
              Once bougtht a Jaguar MK-2, that had been through 3 owners, because of a horrible ROAR/DRONE. L/F motor mount bolt wuz TOO LONG & threaded through to the FRAME! QUICK fix & I made a BUNDLE, on that car!
              Dad Quiet

              Comment


              • #16
                I just rebuilt my Model A powered Zipper roadster and replaced the rear FAM rubber biscuits. Because it has a custom frame, I used a '32 front engine mount with small block Chevy motor mount rubber that I also replaced with a $20 kit from Speedway. I was amazed at how hard the rubber had become and it was compressed at least 3/8" thus creating a loose mounting bolt. The car runs so much smoother and the fix was cheap.

                Comment

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                  Hey Bill, you awake yet?

                  I am wondering, yesterday I installed the FaM from Bratton's, the ductile steel one, and noticed that the far rear mount has an barely interference fit to the cross member.

                  Dig into your FaM memory and tell me about how much weight, if any, should be on the cross member?

                  I have the ability to
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