New auxilary horn button

[aok]

Had problems with my horn, replaced it with a new one from berts, worked well but.
Horn kept blowing when I drove.
Not a purest so replaced original horn button with a aftermark button.
Horn works 😀.

[1crosscut]

I've always let anyone that wants to sit in my truck at shows etc... Of course the kids (and quite a few adults) were pushing the horn button. While fun for them it was sort of a pain for the folks around the truck. I disconnected the steering wheel horn button and placed a hidden momentary push button switch up under the center of the dash rail. No one can see it and still pretty easy to get at.

[plyfor]

I had the same issue when car 1st purchased. The light rod wasn't oriented properly at the light switch end with a weak spring / u clip (that wouldn't pull the rod down enough) and missing the copper bushing at the shaft top..Once fixed, touching the horn button would be properly grounded with no turning of the light switch.

[Olderthandirt]

Had problems with my horn, replaced it with a new one from berts, worked well but.
Horn kept blowing when I drove.
Not a purest so replaced original horn button with a aftermark button.
Horn works 😀.

Any chance you might tell me how you wired the new horn button?

[Mitch]

Simple. Cut the center wire going into the light switch. Extend that wire to your 4.00 horn button. Then take a short wire from the other horn button terminal to a ground. If you’re mounting the button on metal then use the mounting screw for a ground

[H. L. Chauvin]

New auxiliary horn button

Just makes me think back over (60) years ago how today we can all count our Model A Blessings.

For example, my 1930 Model A $25.00 coupe came with a modern push-pull light switch and a toggle switch for a keyed ignition switch, a 1950's separate horn button, sealed beam headlights, no floor mats, canvas seat covers, used, painted metal parts of RC Cola Signs for both roll-up side door glass, no key for the door lock, about a 1950's muffler, 1" thick cypress running board reinforcement planks bolted to the tops of both running boards, exposed eighteen inch galvanized sheet metal extension to bottoms of both rear fenders, one mounted 21" tire, one mounted 19" tire and two 600:16" tires, and a wood box replacing the rumble seat.

The only parts supplier known and told to me in 1958 by the former owner was J.C. Whitney who sold Model A points for fifteen cents and a few other items, so everything was "Make-Do."

Today's Model A Blessings:

Berts, Brattons, Snyders, etc., etc., struggling every day to locate hard-to-find Model A parts that actually work and spending 90% of their days on the phone assisting all of us to try to keep our Model A's running well enough to at least drive to the local Post Office.

[H. L. Chauvin]

Added More Important Blessings:

1. First: We had no Vintage Vehicle Forums in the 1950's ..... so we had to ask our experienced local, former senior horse and buggy mechanic folks what to do to keep our Model A running.

2. Second: But even more important than the First and perhaps more import than anything else:
A. In the 1950's the not often used word "Computer" could have described a person working for the local Church trying to compute how much could be spent this year for Church-Remodeling.

B. Again in the 1950's the word "Internet" in our local Gulf Region Area could have meant a hardware cloth trap with smaller screen openings to install inside a crab trap to catch shrimp?

[Olderthandirt]

Simple. Cut the center wire going into the light switch. Extend that wire to your 4.00 horn button. Then take a short wire from the other horn button terminal to a ground. If you’re mounting the button on metal then use the mounting screw for a ground

Many thanks, Mitch