I have one of my Zenith carbs in mineral spirits as of today. I bought a box of TSP and plan to boil it tomorrow for a few hours and then put it in the freezer for a spell. I will check out if brass comes out freely. I will clean ports out with a paper clip or wire suitable for that chore. My question is, is bead blasting that necessary ? I have a friend that could do it for me, but I need my extra arm and leg right now. pAAt
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Like Tom i blast them in my cabinent then clean everything out with carb cleaner using a straw and compressed air. I don't think there is a single way to go about it as we all try and achieve the same end result
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Pat, Black Beauty is just ground up coal clinkers, so store it where it won't get wet, and mice won't chew through the bag. Inside a large plastic tub is ideal. Woodbury has a mountain of coal clinkers, and that's where the factory is. You can save about 50% if you buy them by the pallet. I should have done that years ago, but I'm not using too much right now.
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Normally I bake them at 450° for an hour, wrap them in a towel and put them in the freezer for 3 hours or more. This normally loosens up the crud and makes removing the jets much easier. Then soak in mineral spirits for a couple of days, then beadblast. As mentioned above get out all of the blasting media. Rod"Much of the social history of the Western world, over the past three decades, has been a history of replacing what worked with what sounded good." Thomas Sowell
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That depends alot with the nozzle and if your compressor will keep up. Do not use sand....... Please. Use glass beads or Black Beauty as Tom mentioned. One advantage of a cabinet is it recycles the media until it is dust, then vacumes it away. I regret selling mine. Will be buying a new one and a bigger compressor in the near future. You just can not do a good restoration without unless you pay someone else for use of theirs. Rod
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Submerging it in evaporust is another viable safe option.
This will get into the passages also
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What I use for cleaning Zenith carb bodies is to immerse them in a container filled with 1 part molasses and 8 parts water , very inexpensive and 100% effective . Let soak for a couple of days and you will be amazed at the results . Remove and rinse with water , environmentally safe. To prevent flash rust coat with a Phosforic acid based product or paint after drying .I use this method for all my heavily rusted small parts.
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Good info Ronald. The VFF has many threads on Phosphoric acid treatments.
Here is a Technical thread
https://www.vintagefordforum.com/for...ospho-with-pic
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I follow the electrolytic process on fordgarage.com to remove the rust and old paint. Works well!
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I found a 24 hour soak in Carb Cleaner in the gallon bucket, cleaned it well and got rid of 100% of the paint. Then I dried it and put it in Evaporust for 24 hours. Although I was able to get all the jets out before I did this. It was perfect ready for paint and reassembly with new jets.
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by Jm29henryI bought a zenith 1 carb that I will rebuild, what is the best product to soak parts for cleaning before rebuilding?
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Channel: Model A Forum
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by MickeyCan anyone (would anyone) build me a good working B carb. from what you see here? I would ,of course, pay for any additional materials. The first three shots are the same table, different view. The fourth shot is three additional cores. I've checked most of the best vendors and other sources. None. Renner no longer rebuilds carbs....
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Channel: Model A Forum
08-02-2018, 01:14 PM -
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by Beaufordbut may become daily driver carb and Zenith as a backup. Rebuilt Marvel fo $200. Crummy ones on fea bay go for 80$ and rebuild kits from Renners is about 140$. Then time to clean, blast, install...I think I came out better. Still waiting for the rain to stop to test yet again settings on Zenith to prevent stop stalls.
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Channel: Model A Forum
05-12-2019, 03:01 PM -
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by old31I have a model B carb with a bored out A intake. The carb runs good, but shouldn't the car want to die when I turn the Idle mixture in all the way?
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Channel: Model A Forum
08-23-2019, 09:54 AM -
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by Keith TrueI'm having kind of an odd carb problem on an A.It is something I've never seen before.When I turn on the gas it leaks badly out the throat until the float shuts the valve.Then it does slowly weep,maybe a drop every couple of minutes.It does idle too rich,even with the GAV turned all the way down.I have verified the GAV needle is hitting the seat,but just with a magic marker,not by pressure.This carb...
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Channel: Model A Forum
06-26-2018, 02:20 PM -
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by Big guyOk so I am now officially crazy! My zenith A carb (1929) is the most stubborn carb I have ever seen. I have read so many threads and links from this site and reached out to respected members via PM about this damn thing. I cannot stop the thing from flooding and puking out the intake (before ever trying to start it). I had issues going to Dearborn and decided that I would start fresh with timing...
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Channel: Model A Forum
08-27-2019, 01:40 PM -
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by Poor BoyGood evening Guys. Was at the Stowe flea market and got some great stuff. One of the items was a Zenith B carb. It looked pretty tough, and I was hoping to save the top casting. As it turns out it cleaned up real nice and although I have not tested it , I think it is a good usable carb. It has a round float and the GAV is the same style as the Model A. I have tried searching, but cannot find...
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Channel: Model A Forum
08-15-2019, 07:08 PM -
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by AyyyAfter many priority shifts and procrastinations, I finally got around to installing the vintage centrifugal air cleaner on my 1930 Model A CCPU.
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This gallery has 3 photos.-
Channel: Model A Forum
07-18-2018, 07:30 PM -
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I have a couple of Zenith carbs and a Holley carb that I picked up at an estate sale recently that I am cleaning up for spares.
Question: How much play should there be in the throttle bore or 'bearings' I guess they are sometimes called? These don't seem to have much wiggle to them I am guessing they are OK. They are nice little carburetors that spent a lot of time on a shelf out of...-
Channel: Model A Forum
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