Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Unique way to set ORIGINAL style point

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Unique way to set ORIGINAL style point

    If your buddy's car starts to too run horrible and sounds like a gun fight at the OK corral because he has allowed his cam to wear the point block to where they barely open and he has no tools other than a small screw driver, here is a quick and accurate fix. Turn his engine to the high part of the cam. Now close the gap until the points just touch. Now open the points by screwing the screw to open by turning the screw 180* open. Then open it another 45* and you have .020 gap. This is easily done by naked eye. If you are a perfectionist (OCD) , the actual turn would be 230* open so that is 180* plus 50* but 45* is insignificant and extremely easy to estimate. Don't need a feeler gage or a match book for this and it is accurate.

    Steve

  • #2
    Interesting Steve. Thanks. I never thought about doing that.
    You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

    Comment


    • #3
      Great tip Steve,
      ill copy your post to the drivability thread in the tech area

      Thanks
      3 ~ Tudor's
      Henry Ford said
      "It's all nuts and bolts"


      Mitch's Auto Service ctr

      Comment


      • #4
        I have an upper plate with a 0.020 width scratch below the points. easy eyeball set. I like this better
        http://jmodela.coffeecup.com

        Comment


        • #5
          Grandpa said to use a thin dime.

          Comment


          • BILL WILLIAMSON
            BILL WILLIAMSON commented
            Editing a comment
            ANYBODY got any small CHANGE? I'm Broke!
            Dad Destitute

        • #6
          nice

          Comment


          • #7
            Good tip, and I have used the same method to adjust valves if I didn't have a feeler gauge handy.
            If you know the threads per inch (TPI) then you can calculate the thousandths per turn of the screw, and adjust the valves accordingly.

            See, the math you had to learn in school does come in handy. LOL

            Comment


            • Mitch
              Mitch commented
              Editing a comment
              I barely squeaked by in math because unlike today we couldn't use calculators

          • #8
            I'll have to write this one down.....or copy and paste.

            Comment


            • Mitch
              Mitch commented
              Editing a comment
              Phil it's also in the tech section (chassis) under the driveability and and tips thread

          • #9
            A few years ago I posted this on **** ****, But I explained it with a lot of detail and pictures. There was quite a lot of responses. I used the same screen name. sphanna

            Comment


            • #10
              here is the over detailed picture of what I did.
              You do not have permission to view this gallery.
              This gallery has 1 photos.

              Comment


              • #11
                I used a match book cover, but can't find them around much now

                Comment


                • #12
                  Heh, before I had my own set of feeler gauges, I used the end flap off the points box!
                  You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

                  Comment


                  • #13
                    I once set a guys points by eye when his car stopped running. He did not tighten the lock screw and the points closed. He thought he had vapor lock. Several years later if found out it was not touched since I set them.

                    Comment

                    Related Topics

                    Collapse

                    • Jwmckenzie
                      Points and Condenser
                      by Jwmckenzie
                      I have run both original points and condenser setups as well as modern points and condensers mounted on the upper plate. I "think" the car sounds better at idle with original points. What is your preference.
                      Original Points and Condenser
                      76.47%
                      26
                      Condenser and Points mounted on the upper plate
                      20.59%
                      7
                      Electronic Ignition of some sort
                      2.94%
                      1
                      05-20-2018, 01:48 PM
                    • davew
                      Distributor
                      by davew
                      Thinking of changing distributor with modern points to one with original. There are some rebuilt on eBay. They say rebuilt etc..how do I know it will work and would i be better off buying a rebuilt from an model A supplier? Thanks, just checking here first before i do something. dave...
                      01-30-2018, 02:46 PM
                    • Tom Wesenberg
                      Spark Timing, Set It and Forget It
                      by Tom Wesenberg
                      There are at least a couple ways to set the timing. You first must set the point gap, and I always set mine to .020" with the points setting on the highest part of the cam lobe. This remains the same whether you use the "A" cam or "B" cam. After the points gap is set, you can then push the spark lever all the way up, which is where it should always be when starting the engine....
                      You do not have permission to view this gallery.
                      This gallery has 2 photos.
                      05-16-2017, 03:34 PM
                    • Mitch
                      Removing the back lash
                      by Mitch
                      An easy way to understand backlash and it's effects on timing.
                      Thanks Paul for your amazing animated site
                      http://modelabasics.com/Ignition.htm



                      ...
                      08-12-2018, 09:20 PM
                    • Captndan
                      Points
                      by Captndan
                      Did a search but came up empty. Where to get good points? Need them now not in a week.
                      11-02-2018, 08:04 AM
                    • Dreess
                      Back firing through carb
                      by Dreess
                      still working at on my new to me A, issue now is when I start it, it is popping/backing firing through the carb. I have read both that this means the carb is set too rich or too lean. Or should I be looking for some other issue? I did take the carb apart and clean it with carb cleaner to get rid of some of the junk in it, and thought I had set it up correct, choke rod set to 1/4 turn open and other...
                      04-29-2018, 06:28 PM
                    • ClaudeC
                      1933, 1942 distributor points.
                      by ClaudeC
                      Can existing points be cleaned and used again in a rebuilt distributor or are new points needed to provide the proper springiness to work properly. Should I purchase brand new from Bob Drake or NOS antique parts?
                      02-09-2018, 03:37 PM
                    • Mitch
                      Known Dangerous Parts for Judging
                      by Mitch
                      This question stems from the other thread about reusing an original wiring harness for competition. Gary Karr brought up the point that I had mentioned about an old original harness being a fire hazard. Are fine point cars forced to use original parts for judging, even though they can be a life threatening item? Two items that come to mind at this moment are the fan blade and the wiring harnesses....
                      01-01-2018, 08:01 PM
                    • 31modelaguy
                      Can screw issues
                      by 31modelaguy
                      hey y’all new here with a question. I have a 31 Model A and I’m trying to adjust the timing. My issue is I can’t get the cam screw to come loose. Any suggestions? I’ve tried wd 40 and different lubricants but can’t seem to break it loose. Am I missing something or could the screw just be seized in there? Thanks for any help.
                      07-14-2018, 05:50 PM
                    • Jim Mason
                      free 5 points
                      by Jim Mason
                      There is one area you can hang on to 5 points with no work at all. which area is it?
                      06-22-2018, 11:54 AM
                    Working...
                    X