No announcement yet.

Question about pop-out ignition

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Question about pop-out ignition

    I have a restored original early 30 pop-out ignition switch. Car runs very well, I just returned from a 500 mile trip and decided to check my point gap .020 (original) and then timing. The way I did it was to set TDC #1 with pin in timing dimple as usual. Now I used a test light to check continuity. I put the pop-out in the run (out /on position) with no power on the ignition circuit (master electric switch off) The test bulb lights up full bright when points are closed which is what I would expect. But when I open the points by turning engine so points cam opens the points, I get a VERY dim test light. I would expect no current with points open. The car runs perfectly but I am confused by this. Can anyone tell me what's up.There is a very small amount of current powering the 1.5 volt bulb with points open. Just a very small glow. I have a battery powered test light.

    Thanks, Steve

    Sounds to me like your "battery powered test light" is charging up the condenser and that is what you are seeing.
    You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!


      Once the timing is set it should not move, so checking the point gap is usually all that is needed. If your master kill is disconnecting the battery then the circuit would have to be dead. I never use those self powered test lights, and would suggest getting a conventional one.
      3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
      Henry Ford said,
      "It's all nuts and bolts"
      "Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."

      Mitch's Auto Service ctr


        If you have a battery hold down that is metal, you could be getting a minute feed back from the frame of the car. If you put a volt meter on either terminal, then run the lose connection across the top of the battery you will get a small reading.. Hence the small feed back is running up the frame to your light. Have seen them actually cause a draw and drain the battery over time.


          Ed H: Makes sense to me. I'll check that.

          DaWizard: You could be right, I just am a little perplexed about that. Don't understand how that can happen.

          Mitch: "Once the timing is set it should not move, so checking the point gap is usually all that is needed." I do understand this. I haven't quite understood about the problem with a powered test light. ???? I have used a continuity meter and a non powered bulb also with no problems. I just preferred to have the master power off. And Mitch, thanks for the link. I will read this as I know the authors of the post are very knowledgeable.

          Thanks to all. Steve