Broken exhaust manifold!

[DaWizard]

Well, here is my sad story and I'm ashamed to admit it.

As most of you know, over the past few days I have been working on Wheezy to get him straightened out from the PO. Well, after reinstalling the intake/exhaust manifold I developed an exhaust leak. So, being the smart ass that I am, I remove the manifold and replace the gasket and gland rings to fix the problem.

Well, normally this would be a simple task, but NO, not for the idiot! I carefully set the rings into the manifold and for some reason couldn't get the damned thing to line back up. Yesterday a fellow club member brings over his extra manifold and I commenced to installing that. Pretty decent fit, well, got to the final tighten up cold and WHOOPS, it cracks between 3 & 4.

So, this morning I go to refit the old manifold and low and behold, I find the reason it leaked and would not fit without leaking. The PO installed gland rings that were not only undersized, but of a very cheap material that is way to flexible, thus letting the manifold stretch and deform and because I did not use the old rings it will no way now line up with the new rings to seat.

Now, I know you are going to say, "just use the old rings and new gasket", well, tried that and I am thinking that the flex developed by the use of the bad rings won't let it come even close to the holes lining back up. So, until I can scrape up enough for a new paired manifolds, I am not driving the car.

So, my warning to all others. BEWARE of INFERIOR gland rings!

[tbirdtbird]

I have never used them and have had no leaks. I use the copper gasket, tho, and a good machined surface on the pair

[Mitch]

I use the rings whenever i can, but many folks do not. I would slap it together without them but use the copper gaskets as Dave mentioned

[Mitch]

Hey Wiz your not an IDIOT!!

[BNCHIEF]

T-bird I use the rings and copper gaskets on t's and a's and have never had issues if the parts fit right to begin with.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I can only use the rings in the front 3 holes on my 28, but with them and the copper gasket I have no leaks.

Do you need to replace the intake also? Why not just the exhaust, and BTW the repro ex. manifolds I've seen are excellent.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Dave lost a gland ring???---Later, he had a RATTLE in his muffler!--He calls his car, "THE TUDOR FROM HELL"--NLOL
Bill Laffin'

[George Miller]

I have never used them and have had no leaks. I use the copper gasket, tho, and a good machined surface on the pair

I do not use them most of the time. A lot of the original manifolds sag at the rear, so you have to leave the back one out any way. I think some cars came with out them, because some of the manifolds do not have the counter bore in them.

[plyfor]

We've also found one floating in the muffler. However, we also found dry fitting the rings to the proper depth when the manifold mates the block is tricky depending on gasket used . Sometimes we file the rings slightly in order to allow for proper gasket seal (even on other make cars such as GM straight 8's, etc.) and after prying them open to get a good bite in the bores.

[BNCHIEF]

Good points plyfor and it is something I do but a great tip for guys getting started.

[DaWizard]

Well, just an update; I have refreshed the old manifold and with a new set of bolt mounted copper gaskets and a bit of gasket sealer and Tadaa!!, no leaks. All is well except I now have a cracked manifold to get repaired.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

TIP#231
If the ears of the manifolds AREN'T even heights, just grind a relief in the backside of the cup shaped washer. Mark it & carefully install it.
Dad Cheep

[Mark Maron]

YUP not good when they break~~

[Rowdy]

Just sorted through my pile of exhaust manifolds. Was suprised to see some sagged more than 1/4". Doubt those would ever seal. Put those with 1/8" or less of sag in the keep pile. Curious where others draw the line on junk and possibly usable. Not trying to hijack the thread, thought this would be a good place for others to find info at a later date. Rod

[DaWizard]

Ya know Rod, I was thinking the same thing. One of the club members suggested mounting it upside down and heating it to red and hanging a 40# weight off the end to reset the sag.

Could work, at least worth a try if you have one or more that are ¼" off or more.

Mark, the one I have that "popped" isn't broke, just a single crack, and I didn't really look close to see how long of a crack, so I am thinking it may be repairable. We'll see, I'm not tossing it just yet.

[Rowdy]

Sorted through 14 only found 3 usable. Still need to check the few heater manifolds I have and may stumble onto some more original plain manifolds. The badly drooped manifolds are headed to the scrap along with the 2 broken intakes. Several of the exhaust manifolds that are being pitched are drooped to the point that when using a straight edge across the top edge of the gland bores for #1 and #2 the straght edge is not even touching the mating surface for #4.There was a thread about 12 years ago showing how the Model T guys were straightening their manifolds. Think I remember reading some A guys trying it without much success. Not sure I could find the Model T link with the change in the format on their club website. I do not think welding a broken manifold is worth the risk. Rod

[tbirdtbird]

it will just crack again in the same place

[Mitch]

They are easily available new or used unless your really bored.
I agree with Dave