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How important is greasing leaf springs?
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having the spring lubed prevents them from sticking and making noise. it also helps the mating leafs from cutting into one another. have heard reports that if your shocks are missing or bad un- lubed springs may help the car be more stable... a nice new lubed up spring with no shocks may feel more wishy washy.
bottom line is they should have some sort of graphite or lube...
maybe others can chime in -
Is the only way to do this, to actually remove the spring and disassemble?Comment
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I use a large tapered flat chisel to spread them... i have another one with a wider end that tapers ...
remove the bolted on spring pack clip and let the axle hang by supporting it with the frame. This will take some tension off of the leafsComment
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in the service bulletins it shows the oiler hole in the hand crank bearing A-5461 for the front spring. Early on there was no hole which a hole could be drilled. it was standard later but i'm not sure when
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While I had my front spring out for a bit of lowering, I placed copper slices between the ends of the springs. None of the springs needed surfacing. Works very nicely, but then, that is old school.You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!Comment
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Please elaborate on the copper slices!Originally posted by DaWizard View Post
size, thickness, etcComment
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Easy, since the spring was apart, I have this roll of about 20gauge X 1½ wide copper. So, cut some pieces about 2" long and with the spring laying on it's side before center bolt was attached, slipped the copper slices between the tips of the springs as center bolt was assembled.
The copper strips will act as a medium to keep the spring tips separated and ease the motion. This has worked very well in years past. Also, if you wish to graphite or lube the leafs it separates them enough to easily get that lube in between the leafs.You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!Comment
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This may be a difficult subject to address, but I'm trying to assess other's experiences with new shackles, leaf springs (ours from A Springs) front and rear, and the ride appears to be quite stiff, compared to what I'm used to with worn out ones or with prior A's. The car handles well and is super tight but has a harder rebound than what I'm used to. I installed new VW oil filled tube shocks as discussed...05-24-2019, 11:56 AM -
I have a question on restoring an original front spring. The spring is a standard 10 leaf spring. I have sandblasted the individual leaves. The question is: Should I epoxy prime the individual leaves before assembling them. I plan to use John Deere Slip Plate between the leaves to provide a lubricant. Any helpful comments would be appreciated on whether the leaves should be painted or just assemble...06-21-2019, 01:31 PM
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This has worked well for me. I've done a few for customers. Round the bottoms of the ends of each spring leaf. Grind the edge of any worn pockets on the tops of each spring leaf. Sandblast and powdercoat the springs, then coat them with Mystik JT-6 High Temp grease, sprinkle on graphite, and wrap them with spring covers. I can't imagine they will ever see a speck of rust in my lifetime, and they have...07-18-2017, 07:16 AM -
I got new front and rear springs from A-Springs and want to prepare them for installation. My question is how big of a C clamp do I need to disassemble them for filing, lubing, painting. I don't know how much compression there is. Would I need a 6"-8"-10" to handle the springs relaxing. At A-Springs recommendation I got the 10 leaf rear but want to remove #7 and #9 for a better ride...12-18-2017, 01:03 PM -
Marco Tahtaras did an excelent REAR Spring Chart showing just where the different individual springs went in a assembled REAR spring.
That being the case ...did he ever do one for the FRONT Spring Assembly?
I say this because I have several disassembled front springs and I do not know just where some of the leaves would go because they are of different lengths and thicknesses....01-20-2019, 04:08 PM -
What is the best way to restore the leaf springs?
Electrolisis...Sand blast...wire wheel...all the above ...none of the above...
Followed by painting each leaf or not?...or use graphite grease...
Assemble....
What have you done in your restoration to have a good looking front and rear spring?
Thanks.
Pluck01-19-2019, 12:20 AM -
I think my throttle return spring is weak. I have a new one
from Snyder’s. Is there a trick to removing and replacing?
It is a torsion spring. Does it need to get wrapped a few times and set like a “mouse trap?
Do I just wedge a screw driver on the last wrap and pop the old one out?
just trying to look before I leap
thank you...07-21-2019, 05:25 PM -
Installed a new spring about a year ago and I have noticed a "hard/stiff" front end ride with shocks adjusted 3/8 turn out. The new rear spring with shocks at 1/4 turn out works great.
I did notice that the shock arm ball is unseated on the left as I was taking these photos. From floor to center of bumper measures 19-3/8". Looking at the shackles angle position, am I missing something?...08-30-2018, 10:23 PM -
I've read that some of the leaf springs are now made with new types steel that are not compatible with oil and grease. Older manuals say to lube , etc. Wonder if spray graphite falls in to this category which we currently use on a lot of classics. Going to install a new rear A spring and curious if others have heard this.08-06-2018, 09:09 AM
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I recently acquired a Canadian 1916 Touring T. I thought it odd that the front spring shackles do not have any provision for oiling. Aren't these supposed to have holes in the perches and springs for flip top oilers or something? It looks like there is a spot on the spring but no hole, just a ghost of a circle. They could not have originally been like this - could they?04-11-2020, 11:20 AM
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