I need help with a horn issue, not on Jesse’s car, but on a buddies. His horn worked until his starter was replaced. Now horn will not work. There is constant power at the horn & it has an aftermarket headlight & horn assembly on the steering wheel. Anybody have an idea??
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Oil the pads and clean the armature brush area..gif "confused")
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Weird thing to me is, if I tighten the cover screw up all the way the horn blows by itself. Is that normal? I haven’t played around with horns anyComment
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I had to remove the brushes and clean inside the brush holders. Brushes weren't making contact with brush holder.Comment
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"it has an aftermarket headlight & horn assembly" What exactly does this mean?? If the horn has power, ground it to see if it works. 6V or 12V??
Why did the starter need replacing?? Have you looked for a broken or "missing" wire(s)??
Paul in CT Any pics??Comment
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Did he have the switch off the bottom of the column? Has the car been sitting for awhile?
Remove the back cover from the horn. connect (or hold) a jumper wire from the terminal where the blue w/yellow wire is connected to a head nut. That should sound the horn or you should hear or see the horn armature try to turn. Doing so bypasses the horn button to ground circuit. If the horn works then it's at the switch contact or horn button.
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I'd have to look at different horns (brands) to tell. However it sounds like your horn cover has an improper screw. The cover screw is only threaded about 1/4" so it limits how far it can be screwed in.Originally posted by Jamey E View PostComment
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Jamey this horn tech thread shows the proper horn cover screw that Marco mentioned. Many things can cause your issue but try running a ground per MT above
there are many other tips on that horn thread fwiw
https://www.vintagefordforum.com/for...8835#post48835
keep us posted3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctrComment
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Ok thanks for the info guys! I didn’t get any pics of it, but it is a Spartan horn, repop I believe. I’m not sure why the starter needed replaced, but after that he had to replace the generator. The switch at the bottom of the steering column doesn’t want to stay tight with the clamp on it. The light switch & horn button seem to be plastic. Hope this answers all the questions. So, I should hook up a jumper ground wire & see if the horn works??Comment
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As Marco said, you should have a constant 6V to it and then run a temp ground and see what happens.3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctrComment
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Will do! ThanksComment
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Just to be clear, you will be grounding the wire I mentioned. The horn motor is NOT grounded like the lights, starter, etc. The horn button completes the ground connection and you will be bypassing that.Comment
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3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctrComment
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And if by doing that the horn works, I’ll know something is wrong with the horn buttonOriginally posted by Marco Tahtaras View PostComment
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When the starter was replaced, I'd guess the headlamp switch got bumped, and now the horn contact in the center of the switch isn't lined up or close enough for good contact to ground the horn when the horn button is pushed.
As Marco mentioned, the repro horn cover screw must have too many threads, so now it can be screwed in until it contacts the motor bush holder, thus grounding the horn circuit, so the horn blows. It may have also bent the brush holder, which will hold the brush tight and not let it slide into good contact with the commutator. I had to fix that very problem a few years ago.Comment
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