Stopping Corrosion at Electrical Connections

[Tom Wesenberg]

I've been asked a few times about using grease at electrical connections because grease doesn't conduct electricity. The connections can be spring loaded contacts, slip on spade terminals, or studs and nuts, it doesn't matter as the metal will be pressed into contact with each other, while the grease will prevent corrosion. Just be sure to use high temp grease, especially at light bulb sockets. In the 70's I tried Vaseline on my bulb sockets, and soon learned it melted at low temp and made a mess on the glass bulbs.

[jmeckel]

I like to use silicone dielectric (I think that is spelled right) grease on electrical connections just do not use it on RF connectors (like 2 way radio, CB, antenna connectors.) it will mess up the RF transfer across the connector. I agree only use high temp rated on light bulb sockets or you will have a mess, I also tried the Vaseline path, not a good idea.

[tbirdtbird]

yep silicone grease for me
i use that for dizzy cam lube also

[Mike V. Florida]

The important thing with grease used in electrical connections is that it is a low-pressure grease. That is when two surfaces touch themselves they press the grease out of the way allowing the metal parts to touch without a thin layer of grease between the part. The grease has to be thick enough to hang onto the parts so oxidation will not take place.

[H. L. Chauvin]

Eastwood quit selling T & B Kopr-Shield in small 4 oz containers about 20 years ago when they were no longer available.

I bought a 4 oz container back then and later coated all electrical connections with this product when rewiring my Town Sedan 10 years ago, lawn mowers, old tractors etc. Never had an oxidized non-conducting connection in our area of high humidity.

Today, the smallest T & B Kopr-Shield container offered is in 8 oz. bottles for about $18.00.

This is the no doubt best of the very best. Forget about Model A blinking lights, horn quit blowing, no start with connector corrosion in Model A junction boxes and at ammeter, etc.

This waterproof copper based dielectric material will not evaporate over time like petroleum products.

Possible Suggestion: Buy one $18.00 bottle, place half in another container to share with another Model A owner(s).

Here is one website with a descent price: https://www.specialized.net/cp8-tb-t...ound-8-oz.html

Humble opinion: Buy this only if one wants to wire a Model A "once" and forget about it..

[Mitch]

Thanks H.L. For the lead

I bought some of this for the shop, and it seems like a great product

[slammin]

I've used an aerosol petroleum based product called Corrosion Block. I was having electrical problems on my 89 Bronco II. My neighbor is a Volvo mechanic, working mostly on mid 80s and older Volvos. He swears by it and it has worked well for me. Its made by Lear Chemical Research, in Canada. 800-256-2548.

[Jeff/Illinois]

I've got a tube of dielectric grease still from the 70's from Lohse automotive store. May be overkill but I got on the habit years ago of putting a small dab inside the spark plug wire boot and on the connecting point at the dist. cap. Probably not necessary as these things get changed as regular maintenance but I never had a problem due to wet days.

[Mitch]

It's not overkill at all, it reccommended inside the blue boots
Usually you get a small package in the plug wire box

It also helps with easier removal as the boot tends to seize itself to the porcelain on the plug

[carolinamudwalker]

I also use dielectric grease, bought it at Lowes. I used it on all connections when I built my catamaran. After 17 years in the Caribbean salt water environment I had no corrosion problems.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

I simply "POOF" connections with WD-40:rolling Works about as well as anything else !
Dad Simple

[H. L. Chauvin]

FWIW:

A. Location of one's Model A in different geographical areas makes a difference; e.g., if one lives in an arid region with low relative humidity, corrosion on Model A electrical connections will always be less prevalent.

B. Also, parking one's Model A indoors or outdoors; or, on a dry concrete slab; or, on bare earth with a high water table ..... will always have an effect on oxidation and electrical connection corrosion.

[Kevin in NJ]

Something to consider if you are using silver reflectors.

Chemical vapors can tarnish or even ruin the silver plate. My brother had noticed the rubberized headlamp gaskets caused problems. That is why you need the cork only type for them. If you put something that causes an outgas then you might end up with reflector problems. So if you add something and notice the reflectors are tarnishing quick you might need to clean out your goop.

Please keep in mind I am not saying any product will cause this to happen. I do not know. I am only bringing this up in case someone notices they might put the two things together.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I agree. My 28 still has the original silver plating and cork gaskets, and the headlamps light the road fine for me.
There is no need to blind oncoming drivers, light up tree tops, or shine deer in the field. LOL

[jordanka16]

Good advice, I have always used dielectric grease or heat shrink tubing on connections, depending on the circumstancese.

[Mitch]

Good advice, I have always used dielectric grease or heat shrink tubing on connections, depending on the circumstancese.

Or use both
https://www.vintagefordforum.com/for...5599#post15599

[jordanka16]

That's a clever idea, I will do that next time, thanks!

[Bobm90]

I have decided to give all my mechanic "friends" T & B Kopr-Shield for Christmas , that is the ones I want to drive mad !! This is great stuff as HL has stated but gets onto EVERYTHING, goes from rag to hand to sleeve to everything, kinda like a stickey tape you just can't get rid of, but I am sure it stops corrosion of electrical connections, I got it on me many times now but some how I am still corroding. LOL