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Newby needs a question answered on 29 model a pickup rear main oil leak

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  • Newby needs a question answered on 29 model a pickup rear main oil leak

    Just bought a new to me 1929 model a pickup. Engine runs fine with no knocks. After a 20 minute test drive and parked on concrete, oil flowed out of flywheel housing. A area approximately 18 inches In diameter. Oil also leaking from left side of engine pan and base of oil fill pipe.

    I have all of Les Andrews books. Question, is it possible to remove pan and the rear main cap for inspection without pulling the engine. If so, is it possible to reinstall oil pump or do I have to turn truck upside down?👀

    Thanks for any input in advance.

    photos coming soon
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  • #2
    I would check out a few things before dissembling anything.
    Tech post
    https://www.vintagefordforum.com/for...1326#post41326

    Does it have excess blowby
    Is the oil overfilled
    Was the truck parked on a level surface when it was leaking
    Make sure the oil breather / fill cap is not obstructed or packed with a brillo pad
    Ck for excessive crankshaft end play

    The pump can be held up in place before pan removal. See the Les red book that you have.

    The oil can be running back there from another area. There is a camshaft gasket between the flywheel housing and block.

    Remove the flywheel housing shield, clean the oil up real good and recheck. These can leak if the vehicle is on a steep incline so keep that in mind if the front is jacked up.

    The rear main drain back pipe from the cap could be missing, but don't jump into this without doing some thorough detective work first
    3 ~ Tudor's
    Henry Ford said
    "It's all nuts and bolts"


    Mitch's Auto Service ctr

    Comment


    • #3
      Yes, you can remove oil pan without pulling the engine! It sounds like you have a vehicle that somebody forgot to put a small pipe in the rear main cap. This tube is about 4" long and about 3/8" in dia. It must be screwed in and a very small tack weld to lock it into place. Acquire this tube from a parts vendor or someone with a good used one. Do not try to make it yourself, It's another one of Henry's weird threads. With out this tube it will leak out an 18" pool of oil in a very short time. Don't ask how I know! Good luck!
      Terry

      Comment


      • #4
        Welcome to the VFF!
        Good to hear you found a truck. (A very nice one, from the picture)
        Please follow Mitch’s guidance listed above. We won't steer you wrong here.
        Good Luck.

        Jeff
        Twiss Collector Car Parts

        Comment


        • #5
          there are a lot of things to check for like Mitch said. Find out for sure how it is getting out of the engine. A lot of people put all kinds of stuff in the filler tube to stop blow by, bad idea, it will make it come out all over the engine.

          Comment


          • #6
            Here is another tip from George. Something else to check

            https://www.vintagefordforum.com/for...6177#post46177
            3 ~ Tudor's
            Henry Ford said
            "It's all nuts and bolts"


            Mitch's Auto Service ctr

            Comment


            • #7
              Did you take it for a test drive before you bought it?

              Pluck

              Comment


              • #8
                To answer your oil pump question. Yes, it can be held in place to reinstall the pan, but please DO NOT use a 3/8x24 bolt as that is 1/8npt. Buy a 1/8npt plug, drill and tap a hole for 1/4x20 or whatever you have handy, screw the plug into the side hole and snug up the new bolt to hold the oil pump up while installing the pan. One other thing, purchase the oil pan installation tools the vendors sell, they may be plastic, but they will hold the pan up once you get it settled to screw in the bolts.

                https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/P...e/oil-pump-pan
                You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Pluck,

                  Yes to your question. Drove it several times, did not notice leak first time I drove it. The leak was thankfully discovered before the sale went down.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    DaWizard
                    Thanks for the info on the oil pump. I have not started this project yet as I want to check everything out. I would assume that the hole in the block below the carburetor with the pipe plug is the correct one to build the set screw for holding the oil pump in place during maint.
                    Last edited by Adog; 01-23-2020, 03:16 PM.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Adog Right below the carburetor just above the oil pan lip should be a slot plug that is the 1/8npt plug, and hole that can be used to hold the oil pump up while removing the pan. There is no threaded hole in the pump for holding it in the block.

                      When you have the pan off, you can remove the plug and release the oil pump for service and cleaning.

                      The reason the oil pump holding is important is, as you will see, there should be a spring on the bottom of the pump that holds the pump indexed while the pan is on, it also pushes against you while removing and replacing the oil pan.

                      It is one thing to get that pan off, it is another thing to get the pump back indexed and get the pan back up. I do hope you have some type of lift to use, and not laying on your back to install the pan. It is a serious pain in the arms, back and other muscles used to do it without a lift. It can be done without a lift, but you will need your 4 legged jack stands at their highest setting. Personally, I'd rather pull the engine to get the pan off, than do it on the ground.

                      When I build my engines, I modify the pump for maximum output and bolt the pump to the block so it can't overcome the spring and unindex from the pump/distributor drive. I have heard stories of a high volume, high pressure pumps overcoming the meager spring and loosing oil pressure to the engine. It doesn't take long without oil for an engine to go boom. When you drop the pan, clean the pump and remove the bottom plate and remove the base gasket.
                      You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Also, check for gasket leaks around the oil pan, front oil seal, valve cover and oil return line on the carb side of the engine. Any oil leaking from these places will flow to the rear of the engine and end up dripping off of the lowest point, which is the flywheel housing.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          If you are going to check for oil leaks up front, not only can you leak around the front pulley, but every bolt that holds the timing cover on, as well as the front motor mount bolt on passenger side of the yolk. ALL of these bolts are through to the oil bath area around the timing gear, so R&R each and use your favorite gasket sealer on the threads. Until the last engine rebuild, I had not even noticed that each hole for the timing cover went clear through.
                          You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I have taken the sump off the motor in my ute too many times over the 200 or so miles it has done since a rebore. I'm down to having to replace the piston rings (Hastings) which browns me off more than I can say without swearing. Anyway, I don't remove the oil pump - it stays in place after I put a couple of centre punch dimples in the right place so it fits in the block just tight enough to not fall out. No need for a screw!
                            Yes, the rear main bearing cap can be removed with the engine in the car - just drop the sump, remove the sheet metal cover from the front of the flywheel housing, undo the split pins and nuts and it's yours! I agree with others who have said that your problem may well be the absence of the drain tube but the bearing being too loose can do it too. ) 0.0015" clearance is about right. I use aluminium foil to check it. Others use a plastic gauge material, others again use oil soaked paper. Whatever way works for you.
                            Last edited by Greynomad; 01-23-2020, 05:09 PM.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Cleaned oil up and drove about 20 miles. She ran great. Got underneath and maybe a drop or two out of the flywheel hole. On drivers side of engine, oil seeping out of oil fill tube and running down. Took tube out and cleaned up and put gasket sealer on it and reinstalled. Inspected oil fill cap and it is obviously the wrong one as it cannot vent as it slides all the way down on tube. I have a new one and compared the two, the new one has tabs to keep it from closing off. We will give her another rede tomorrow and check it out. Thanks for all the input and links.
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                              Last edited by Adog; 01-25-2020, 05:51 PM. Reason: More pics

                              Comment


                              • #16
                                Wow, that sure is a sweet looking '29 pickup. Now, drive the tires off it!
                                You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

                                Comment


                                • #17
                                  Good to hear the solution was simple !!

                                  Comment


                                  • #18
                                    Originally posted by Adog View Post
                                    Took tube out and cleaned up and put gasket sealer on it and reinstalled. Inspected oil fill cap and it is obviously the wrong one as it cannot vent as it slides all the way down on tube.
                                    Sounds like you found a few easy to fix issues. Good news. The crankcase pressure had to find the next easiest way out being the cap was blocked. Many A's mark their territory, so don't expect it to be bone dry on a used motor. Hope this helps alleviate the big leak. Keep us posted
                                    Great looking p/up love the blue
                                    3 ~ Tudor's
                                    Henry Ford said
                                    "It's all nuts and bolts"


                                    Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                                    Comment


                                    • #19
                                      That's a nice looking truck. If your going to drive at night I think you need a headlight adjustment. It might just be the
                                      picture but it looks like the right one is for reading street signs and the left for reading curb address numbers.

                                      Comment


                                      • #20
                                        Welcome to VFF, you are in the right place for questions and help. Looks like you are on the path to a pretty easy fix, time will tell and hopefully you have solved the issue.
                                        I just went through the same thing, but mine was not as easy as this one sounds.
                                        Beautiful pick up, enjoy the he$$ out of it!

                                        Comment


                                        • #21
                                          Originally posted by Bob C View Post
                                          That's a nice looking truck. If your going to drive at night I think you need a headlight adjustment. It might just be the
                                          picture but it looks like the right one is for reading street signs and the left for reading curb address numbers.
                                          , you are right about the headlight aiming, pretty bad. Plan to correct that next week. Also get out the grease gun and check or change oils.

                                          Comment

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