Steering shaft shot?

[Pklarkin]

Hi all,

Thanks to your help, the car is running! Combined timing/carb issue. Once that got fixed it started right up and runs like a champ.

Now I'm on to rebuilding the steering column and box. I have a 7-tooth, and as I took it apart I was shocked to find that the lower thrust bearing was totally shot - disintegrated with only the outer housing left. The top isn't a lot better.

I'm guessing that it's been that way for quite some time (the car is a frame-up restoration that I purchased about 18 months ago but haven't driven) and I think it's done damage to the end of the steering shaft. Lots of scoring, per the pics below.

My question to you all: Is the shaft still serviceable? Thanks in advance for your insights.

Pat

[Rowdy]

While I can not say for certian that it is totally shot as the bottom of the shaft might be able to be turned to 5/8" and fit the lower bushing to match. Hard to judge the measurement in a pic. I have several good shafts that will also need the lower end of the shaft turned and fit a new bushing. If yours is not turnable and need a replacement shaft let me know. Rod

[Rowdy]

Found one in the pile that will require a minimum of turning. Still have 5 more 7 tooth colums that I can check. Since I only have enough NOS and NORS sector shafts to build 3. The rest of the uncracked columns will be used to build into 2 tooth conversions with 28-29 style column tubes. Rod

[tbirdtbird]

Doesn't look good.
Bert's might have a good used one that does not need turning

[Mitch]

I think i have some in my pile for sale

There was two boxes and parts for the 7 tooth. Let me know if u want me to look

[Dennis]

You could probably have it built up and turned back down, but really not worth it. There are many better ones out there. You could consider buying a new shaft with a new worm gear pressed on from Snyder's, but it most likely won't be straight. The shaft needs to be perfectly straight and centered with the worm or it won't last nor will it turn properly on the bushings when assembled.

[Rowdy]

Luckily the 7 tooth worm gear does not need to be pressed on like the 2 tooth. Rod

[Dennis]

Rowdy, isn't it pressed on tho? Mine is but I haven't tried to remove it yet.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Vermin has a 7 tooth & steers GOOD. I topped up the 600W & just try to BLOCK IT OUT OF MY MIND???
Bill Imbecille

[Rowdy]

Dennins. It is spined and held in place with a lock ring. First use an 3/4" x 12" pipe nipple with a coupler. Leave the nut on the steering wheel threads. Stand the shaft upside down with the threads resting on a block of wood. Use the pipe nipple with coupler and rest the coupler on the worm gear. Use a hammer and tap the worm until you can remove the lock ring. After the lock ring is removed turn the shaft over so the steeting wheel threads are up. Use the pipe nipple and coupler like a slide hammer and remove the worm gear. Normally does not take much effort. No press required as it is not that tight. Rod

[Rowdy]

I had the dia of pipe and nipple wrong above. Corrected the error to 3/4". Rod

[Dennis]

I tried that hammer block of wood just now but couldn't get it to budge, so I'm going to pick up some grade 8 all thread from my supplier next week. A 7/8" deep Snap-on socket fits perfect.

If that doesn't work, I'll lengthen the sides of my press.

[Rowdy]

Sounds like you have a stuborn one. I looked at the pile of shafts yesterday. Four successfully removed and one not removed. Since I already sold three in the past few years. That would make seven removed and one stuck. Not sure I am going to bother with the one stuck as the threads are alittle rough and horn rod stuck inside. Rod

[Mitch]

How much are they worth?

[Rowdy]

2 were traded to afordnut a couple of years ago. Got $35 out of the other. Thinking if I turn them down smooth, sell with lower bushing fit they would bring $85-$100. Have not tried to sell them that way. The other one went with the steering column that was in the pallet of parts when I sold my rdstr pu project piece by piece in 2008. Rod