30 ~ 31 Tapered Shank Rear Spring Perch Ball Replacement

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  • Bill CNC
    Senior Member
    • Oct 2017
    • 559
    • SoCal Desert

    30 ~ 31 Tapered Shank Rear Spring Perch Ball Replacement

    Hey Folks,

    I took on the task of replacing my rear spring perch ball's part # A-4024but found nothing on the web as to how to go about it for a 31 Tudor. I couldn't find anything on Youtube Video's nor could I find anything in print and pictures for the tapered Perch balls for the 30-31 A's. I know the 28-29's were to be cut and drilled then weld the balls in. I have seen info on that, but as I said, nothing for the 30-31's, so I decided to make a quick tutorial on how I did it. It took about 40 minutes to do both sides. Hope this helps others in the future, IT'S PRETTY DARN EASY!

    Tools used,

    4.5" - Wire wheel
    4.5" - 24 grit Grinding Disc
    4.5" - 120 grit Flapper Wheel
    3 - Jack stands (rear end removed from vehicle)
    ¼" – Drift Punch
    Porta-Power
    30 oz. or so Ball Peen Hammer
    Torch (heat)
    Scotch-Brite or Sandpaper

    1). Place the rear end on 3 jack Stands.

    b1.jpg
    2). Use a wire wheel to clean off any dirt/grease around the perch and ball that may be present.

    b2.jpg
    3). With the 4.5" - 24 grit grinder wheel, grind off the peened over end on the backside of the ball and knock out the ball. Then clean up with 120 grit flapper wheel.

    4). Place the Porta-Power on the perch and the top Differential Banjo Bolt, and once both ends touch, add ½ pump of the handle to snug up enough to counter the force of the hammer but not stress the perch much.

    b3.jpg
    5). With the 1/4" drift punch, 3-4 hits should pop out the old tapered ball.

    6). Clean up the inside of the hole and the new balls with Scotch-Brite or sandpaper.

    b4.jpgb5.jpg
    7). Tap the new balls into place.

    8). Now place the Porta-Power on the flat face of the perch balls and again on the top center banjo bolt. Again only tight enough to withstand the hammer.

    b6.jpg

    9). Apply heat to the back of the ball until cherry red and peen over the end.

    b7.jpgb8.jpg
    Clean up with the wire wheel and give it a squirt with your favorite Chassis paint and then go have an Ice Cold Beer and admire your work, you're DONE!

    b9.jpg


    Regards
    Bill
  • Bill CNC
    Senior Member
    • Oct 2017
    • 559
    • SoCal Desert

    #2
    The process for repairing the Shackle mount should be obvious. Clean, weld, grind, and file to shape.

    Copper tubing with a steel center for heat sink. Suspend the rear end by the steel rod, thus ensuring everything is inline and level.





    Repaired Shackle Mount





    Regards
    Bill
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Bill CNC; 12-03-2019, 02:29 PM.

    Comment

    • Steve Plucker
      Senior Member
      Banished Badge Holder
      • May 2017
      • 2374
      • Walla Walla Washington

      #3
      Fantastic Bill...That is great! How about submitting your work to MARC or MAFCA for an article in their magizines?!

      Pluck
      Last edited by Steve Plucker; 12-03-2019, 02:37 PM.

      Comment

      • Bill CNC
        Senior Member
        • Oct 2017
        • 559
        • SoCal Desert

        #4
        Hi Steve,

        Don't know how. if someone want's to pass it along, ... Have at it.

        Regards
        Bill

        Comment

        • Steve Plucker
          Senior Member
          Banished Badge Holder
          • May 2017
          • 2374
          • Walla Walla Washington

          #5
          Just send it to Ken Ehrenhofer (MARC) at [email protected] and/or Andy Scheer (MAFCA) at [email protected]

          They should give you advice on what they need.

          Go for it Bill...You can do this! Heck...if you can do what you did in your tutorial...you can write it up!

          Pluck
          Last edited by Steve Plucker; 12-03-2019, 02:38 PM.

          Comment

          • Tom Wesenberg
            RIP
            The VFF will miss you
            "Permanent Member"
            • Apr 2017
            • 5178
            • Pine River, Minnesota

            #6
            Now wait a minute!........ Is it really fixed?.......... I didn't see any CNC involved. LOL

            Nice work, and I agree with Pluck that it need to be published.

            Comment

            • Mitch
              Administrator
              • Apr 2017
              • 31846
              • Bucks County, PA

              #7
              Really nice job Bill on showing how to do these procedures. Great pictures and easy to follow steps, and a tool index to boot. No doubt this will help many out in the future. Thanks for taking the time to put it all together, and sharing it with the VFF. This has been copied to the Chassis tech forum located here
              https://www.vintagefordforum.com/for...e-mount-repair

              Did I say AMAZING
              1~24 Touring, 2~30 Tudor's, 1~31 Tudor,
              1~30 Coupe

              Henry Ford said, "It's all nuts and bolts"
              "Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."

              Mitch's Auto Service ctr

              Comment

              • Jim Mason
                Senior Member
                • May 2017
                • 3577

                #8
                May not be accepted to MARC. Articles cant have been published a ywhere else(including internet). May have changed
                http://jmodela.coffeecup.com

                Comment

                • Bill CNC
                  Senior Member
                  • Oct 2017
                  • 559
                  • SoCal Desert

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Jim Mason
                  May not be accepted to MARC. Articles cant have been published a ywhere else(including internet). May have changed
                  I'd rather have it available to everyone for free via the internet. More people would have access to it.

                  Regards
                  Bill

                  Comment

                  • Mitch
                    Administrator
                    • Apr 2017
                    • 31846
                    • Bucks County, PA

                    #10
                    Originally posted by Jim Mason
                    May not be accepted to MARC. Articles cant have been published a ywhere else(including internet). May have changed
                    It does not matter and can still be presented to MARC. Mark Maron posted 2 articles before they were published in the MAN right here on this VFF. I would submit the brake switch fix and this one. If they were not covered before in the magazine they may take them

                    https://www.vintagefordforum.com/for...for-show-or-go
                    https://www.vintagefordforum.com/for...ket-short-info
                    1~24 Touring, 2~30 Tudor's, 1~31 Tudor,
                    1~30 Coupe

                    Henry Ford said, "It's all nuts and bolts"
                    "Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."

                    Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                    Comment

                    • Jim Mason
                      Senior Member
                      • May 2017
                      • 3577

                      #11
                      Hope its changed, would be great if published
                      http://jmodela.coffeecup.com

                      Comment

                      • aford193031
                        Senior Member
                        • Sep 2017
                        • 204
                        • Pearland, Texas

                        #12
                        Thanks for the info Bill. That is really good.
                        Thanks Mitch for saving it to the chassis tech area.

                        Comment

                        • Jwmckenzie
                          Senior Member
                          • Nov 2017
                          • 6013
                          • Boston, MA

                          #13
                          I have been thinking about how to repair the shock balls on the rear spring perch for the '31 Woody. This thread has been a great help. The rear end that I have has the balls integral to the spring perch. So I can remove these, drill a 9/16 hole and have new ones welded in. I would prefer to put the tapered ones in as Bill CNC describes above. What kinda of a drill bit would I need to make the correct tapered hole? Size, taper angle, etc.

                          I have found a ball joint reamer with a 7 degree taper, guess that could work.

                          Thanks in advance for the info.
                          Last edited by Jwmckenzie; 04-12-2020, 10:42 AM.
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