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  • Treating original wood?

    I will soon start removing the original interior of my Town Sedan to install the new Classtique interior expected in late December. Since much of the original wood will be exposed is it worth applying any treatment to it? From a few sections that I have previously exposed the original wood is in very good condition. The threads that I found on the forum seemed to deal with treating new wood or repairing old wood.

  • #2
    It's a preference thing imo. The sides of the wood that are touching metal won't be exposed to treat anyway. I probably wouldn't touch it but that is just me.
    3 ~ Tudor's
    Henry Ford said
    "It's all nuts and bolts"


    Mitch's Auto Service ctr

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    • #3
      I think this is something that gets overthought.Will your car ever get neglected and left out in the elements for extended periods of time like they were back in the day?If your wood has survived this long,I would say that with proper storage it will outlast three more generations of owners.I looked at a Fordor at a little show last summer that had funny splotches all over the interior.The owner told me that the previous owner had used some kind of wood preservative before he put the new interior in.It was fine for a couple of years,but it sat inside.When it got out in the sun for some extended periods of time the preservative decided to leach out.His headliner and door panels have stains all over them.

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      • #4
        "IF" you treat the wood just make sure it's with a multi-part component product that has a catalyst so it fully hardens. The Wooden boat industry has a lot of cool products for dealing with wood preservation and rot repair. Think about it, the boating industry has been dealing with these issues long before Henry's great, great grandfather was born.

        Regards
        Bill

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        • #5
          I would not waste your time or money to do it, and I agree 100% with Keith.

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          • #6
            Everthing you are talking about is an old, traditional practice (Wood in cars?) I don't believe Henry bothered to use any preservative on the wood in his cars other than the that special lacquer that he splashed on the inside. I have always been a big believer in Linseed oil, Its old, It works! And it doesn't leech out. Especially if it's followed by a coat of Spar Varnish. That's SPAR VARNISH. Not some variant that's two bucks less at your big box store. One old time trick was to mix the linseed with the spar varnish, 50/50 but it slows the drying time way down. But it's great for gunstocks. This is very important, Make sure you get the ends of the piece! This is where the wood sucked up the sap when it was a tree, this is the plumbing of the tree and it will take in moisture that will eventually cause rot if not sealed.
            Terry

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            • #7
              Thanks for the responses! After I get everything exposed I'll evaluate for any repairs needed and do those first. If the rest of the wood is solid I'll probably skip major preservative treatment. I have used linseed oil and spar varnish on a number of wood projects and really like the results. I know I'll have some repair on the wood at the bottom of the doors and may treat those pieces as they seem to be so prone to water damage if the car is caught in the rain. I've had good success with the MinWax two part epoxy repair product on thresholds and sills so would probably use that on the A wood where needed. Any suggestions for other repair products that may be better? I've also used some of the liquid penetrating hardeners for soft wood that are no longer available. Any suggestions for brands?

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              • #8
                Here is a recent thread, that basically deals with the same thing

                https://www.vintagefordforum.com/for...th-rotten-wood
                3 ~ Tudor's
                Henry Ford said
                "It's all nuts and bolts"


                Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks Mitch!

                  Comment

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