Thermostat...running very cool I think

[Mark Maron]

OK dilemma here and need suggestions.

Mr Car
50 Amp alternator
960 Miles on the car
Did the complete engine overhaul, rings etc
“B” Carb
“B” Distributor
Using Vintage Percision Housing for thermostat (VPH)

at the beginning I had the stat 160 installed in the VPH & 160 Stant Thermo, always loved it but I was running around 185-195, when stopped i was 200...concerned me..A bit warm for me. This was April this year when i started to drive the car when done.
SO i removed the Thermo, it and was then driving at 140-150..NOW i have been driving all the time, temps are in the high 60's low 70's in Illinois and I cannot get it above 130 degrees... What is the suggestion? do I put the Thermo BACK IN???? What say you Tom and the other folks please...
__________________

[Mitch]

How many holes do you have drilled in it?

[Mark Maron]

Actually here is the system with the thermostat they supply Stant #45356

[Mitch]

Drill 3 holes in it but buy a new one.. i would not reuse it since it could be defective
Any good brand 160 will work, gates, stant etc

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

There you go with them HOLES, AGAIN!
KDad Fussin'

[tbirdtbird]

agree.

i usually drill holes 1/8" diameter

[CarlG]

The way that the VP housing is designed, you don't have to drill any holes. The housing already has the by-pass built in. Look closely at the second picture in #3. There are two recesses that allow water to by-pass the t-stat.

[Dennis]

Carl, does the thermostat has a rubber seal around it? One of my modern cars has that.

[Mark Maron]

Drill 3 holes in it but buy a new one.. i would not reuse it since it could be defective
Any good brand 160 will work, gates, stant etc

what makes you think its defective??? brand new

[Mark Maron]

Carl, does the thermostat has a rubber seal around it? One of my modern cars has that.

Here is a better picture..You can see clearly the by pass on the sides and the O ring to seal it...I am going to insert it in again and see what reading I get from it. We are talking maybe 15 min to install with the 4 bolts.......

[Dennis]

Put it in a pan of water on the stove top. Use a temp gun to compare when it opens to the reading of your gun.

[Mark Maron]

[Dennis]

... In place of a gasket. Mark, thank you for posting the picture.

[Mitch]

I know your running cool without a stat but what is the history on the radiator and the block?

[DaWizard]

What I am wondering is, where are you taking the temp reading from? Do you have a gauge plugged into the Tstat housing, or using a infrared gun to check the rear cylinder?

[CarlG]

The T-stat housing has an o-ring groove that seals the two halves together. The o-ring is that black circle shown in the second picture in post #3.

[CarlG]

If you feel real brave, use your wife's meat or candy thermometer.

[MikeK]

The machined bypass ports on the VP housing are insufficient for enough circulation to prevent temperature surging in some engines with scale buildup in the rear upper block area. They only really serve to pass trapped air, preventing air isolation of the 'stat sensor. First, test the 160 stat in boiling water. Let it cool off and read the water temperature at the point it starts to close and is fully closed. Then drill ONE 1/4" bypass hole in the stat. Also, have you checked to insure the impeller is tight on the shaft? 130 is too cold. You will never rid the crankcase of condensation from the water vapor in the blowby. Result- acid and sludge.

[Mark Maron]

I know your running cool without a stat but what is the history on the radiator and the block?

Brand new bergs radiator. Block perfect

[Mark Maron]

What I am wondering is, where are you taking the temp reading from? Do you have a gauge plugged into the Tstat housing, or using a infrared gun to check the rear cylinder?

Temp is coming from gauge into Tstat housing.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Yes, what Mike K. just posted, except I drill two 1/8" holes on opposite sides.
BTW, four 1/8" holes has the same area as one 1/4" hole.

[Mitch]

I agree with MIke K ,Tom regarding the holes which i mentioned in #3. Those little slit openings in that housing are insufficient.

For 5.00 buy a new stat and drill it out. We get NEW defective parts all the time at the shop

[MikeK]

Mark, I recently walked you through a ring job and just minutes ago emailed you about an electrical problem.
Maybe it would be easier for you if you just posted a list of what is NOT busted.

[CarlG]

Not to get into a pissing match with anyone here, but "those little slit openings" in the T-stat housing actually provide for more flow than the often recommended pair of 1/8 inch holes drilled in the thermostat itself.

Having said that, anytime I feel that I need more bypass, it's a simple pull of a knob in the cab to divert all I could ever want thru the heater.

One of the guys in our club actually hard plumbed a line from one of the ports in the T-stat housing back to the water jacket on the rear of the engine next to cylinder #4.

[Mitch]

No pissing match, a good spirited informational thread. Maybe those pics of the slits look smaller than they actually are.
Personally i never saw one in person