who knows how to shimmey? (RPU)

[Beauford]

Ok...I've read all off Marco's stuff on door shimming with some helped but half way.. My doors even off the frame I always had to pick up on them a little to closed shut. I figured once on the frame with the blocks/rubber/welt they would be better than on the jack stands. Drivers side door was just a little bad. Passenger was worse. I shimmed front drivers side very front bolt and the one near hinge. Now drivers side seems worse but un-shimmed passenger is better.

On a better side I repainted my rear (and only) fenders AGAIN with my new Devilbiss paint gun. I have never painted a car before and almost makes me want to redo the whole cab and bed which I used a HF paint gun and have been wet sanding for weeks.

[Mitch]

You'll be a seasoned veteran when you build your next Model A

Nice job with the new gun, ya get what ya pay for

[Dennis]

X2 on the paint gun, you get what you pay for.

[Beauford]

I would add practice as well...I'm sure seasoned auto painters can use crap guns and do pretty well. My problem combined with bad gun was distance and speed. Of course HF doesn't atomize like Divillbiss

[tbirdtbird]

The better quality guns atomize the paint waaay better, giving a much more professional shoot.
Miles has a top-of-the-line Sata-Jet gun and there is a huge difference at how that baby atomizes compared to mine, which I only use for frames, chassis parts, rear ends, etc

[Beauford]

I have a small compressor so got the Devillbiss SRI Pro. It is suppose to be a touch up gun for fenders and small panels. Only 9oz cups but I just mix a bunch up and roll with it. You could paint a whole car. It would be slower but I'm not trying to pump out cars like a pro who does it for a living. Those Sata's have great reviews as well and are $$$

[Big hammer]

Ok...I've read all off Marco's stuff on door shimming with some helped but half way.. My doors even off the frame I always had to pick up on them a little to closed shut. I figured once on the frame with the blocks/rubber/welt they would be better than on the jack stands. Drivers side door was just a little bad. Passenger was worse. I shimmed front drivers side very front bolt and the one near hinge. Now drivers side seems worse but un-shimmed passenger is better.

On a better side I repainted my rear (and only) fenders AGAIN with my new Devilbiss paint gun. I have never painted a car before and almost makes me want to redo the whole cab and bed which I used a HF paint gun and have been wet sanding for weeks.

Take the very front shim out, it should raise the back of the door,and/or add a shim at the hinge bolt. Think of it as a teeter todder
I wouldn't get too caried away until your hood is in place. The radiator, front of hood, back of hood, cowl, front of door, rear of door all have to be lined up. It's really trial and air

[Beauford]

Good call on the dont go crazy...yeah better not fool with it till front fenders come in. Thank you for the time saver now/later!!

[Tom Wesenberg]

Take the very front shim out, it should raise the back of the door,and/or add a shim at the hinge bolt. Think of it as a teeter todder
I wouldn't get too caried away until your hood is in place. The radiator, front of hood, back of hood, cowl, front of door, rear of door all have to be lined up. It's really trial and air

And hopefully you're starting with a straight frame.

[Beauford]

Frame is straight...like I said..doors were like this when body was on jack stands. Open cars flex a bit from what I have read. Just need it flexing the right way

[George Miller]

Good point Tom. Of the 25 Model A's I have done only 1 did not have frame sag.