Tweet
What could I use to rejuvenate good old "A" wood ? Really nice wood, but a tad bit dry I would say.
-
Model A's and of course the famous AA's -
Linseed oil ? 20-50 used grade A oil ? Any wood workers out there !!! ?? or leave it to shrink up ?Model A's and of course the famous AA's -
On an old wood deck I've use Thompson's water seal. What wood are you talking about?Comment
-
Ever notice the old vertical board Tabaco barns in some of the eastern states, and how they are usually very dark, almost black. I heard they use old drain oil to preserve the wood. Does anyone know if this is true?
Also interesting is most of the barns east of the Mississippi I've seen have vertical boards, while most west of the river have horizontal boards. I like the looks of the vertical boards better.Comment
-
i think i would use 50/50 linseed oil,mineral spirits.linseed oil tends to stay tacky a long time when used 100%Originally posted by pAAt View PostComment
-
I would pass on motor oil.
50-50 linseed as above or maybe Tung oil
anyone know a good HS shop teacherComment
-
I'm no wood expert, but I like the idea of Tung oil.Comment
-
Taken from Wikipedia
Tung oil is very popular today because of 2 properties: First it is natural or "green" product when it has dried.[citation needed] Secondly, after it cures (5 to 30 days, weather/temperature related), the result is a very hard and easily repaired finish. This is why it is used on boat decks and now on floors. The oil is often diluted with hydrocarbon thinner so that the viscosity is very low and enables the oil to penetrate the finest grain woods. This thinning vehicle evaporates within 15 to 20 minutes and results in a totally green residual finish. As mentioned above, when applied in many fine/thinner coats over wood, tung oil slowly cures to a satin "wetted wood" look with slight golden tint. Tung oil resists liquid water better than any other pure oil finish and does not darken noticeably with age and is claimed to be less susceptible to mould than linseed oil.[7] Most importantly, of all the oil finishes, tung oil is the only drying oil that will polymerize 100% (completely harden). Linseed oil, for example, never completely hardens.[citation needed]
Since tung oil has become popular as an environmentally friendly wood finish, some products labelled as "tung oil" are actually blends containing other oils, varnishes, solvents, or chemical driers, and may even containing no tung oil at all[8] Products labeled "Danish oil" may be tung oil or they may be polymerized linseed oil. The product packaging will usually clearly state if it is pure tung oil.
I think I'll give this a try with a 50-50 mix. Thanks, PatModel A's and of course the famous AA'sComment
-
We use pure Tung oil ($$) available from a local exotic wood supplier on exterior teak doors. It can remain tacky to touch (depending on substrate) if not very slightly diluted so may not be good for areas under upholstery due to bleeding in high temps. Out door exposure, we've noted the tung oil can pick up and retain a little dust, so experiment for your material and exposure.
As an aside, I'd question the notion that tung oil is ( now ) suitable for floors and decks ,compared to modern urethanes which control gloss levels and are very durable.Last edited by plyfor; 09-07-2017, 12:46 PM.Comment
-
-
There is an article regarding this in the current issue of "The Restorer" (MAFCA)Alaskan A's
Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska
Model A Ford Club of America
Model A Restorers Club
Antique Automobile Club of America
Mullins Owners ClubComment
-
Something I noticed yesterday at HD that I have never payed attention to was japan drier. I have never noticed it on the shelf and didn't know there was such a thing. Check it out, speeds up drying. I read they mix it with boiled linseed oil and alkyd resin paints to speed up drying.Comment
-
Boiled Linseed oil is the best for old wood. Don't use the raw stuff.
BrianComment
-
by 28AGot a Briggs body with some wood that needs to be fixed up. What are we using for new or existing wood to protect it?
I've heard boiled linseed oil is good as well as Gilsonite, but I have no idea where to source Gilsonite?...08-22-2018, 10:49 PM -
by gdaquilinaI will soon start removing the original interior of my Town Sedan to install the new Classtique interior expected in late December. Since much of the original wood will be exposed is it worth applying any treatment to it? From a few sections that I have previously exposed the original wood is in very good condition. The threads that I found on the forum seemed to deal with treating new wood or repairing...11-24-2019, 08:31 PM -
by RockHillWillI have been attending a wood working class locally for about two years and at each event there is some one that presents about an hour talking about some sort of a wood project. I am just a little bit smarter than a rock about wood working, but feel that I ought to contribute in some way, and all I could think of was something like: 'Using Wood in Vintage Auto Restoration'. I thought that I could...01-15-2019, 08:38 AM -
by emacI bought a wood kit for my 30 CCPU roof. The way the previous owner had the interior, a lot of this wood was visible. No headliner. My plan was to stain the wood with the same stain as the bed wood and add a coat or two of spar varnish. Any thoughts on this?...12-20-2020, 10:46 AM
-
by wrndlnThere was a product called Kwik Poly. It was a 2 part epoxy product, I think, that could be used to repair decayed wood, like body sill wood. It appears the company that made it went out of business. Does anyone have any information about Kwik Poly or a similar product that can be used to repair wood?
Thanks
Rusty Nelson07-12-2019, 05:44 PM -
-
by Bill GI have a '29 Tudor with some very questionable and even rotten wood. I have seen some vendors who sell wood kits. Fordwood, Classic wood Products, and it seems too, all the Model A vendors, Bert's Bratton's, Snyders, Mike's, Mac's, CW Moss, Sacramento, and probably others. It looks like the going price for a top wood kit is just north of $600, especially when considering shipping and hardware....06-12-2018, 02:13 AM -
-
by Bill GThe old wood had a padding of sorts between the wood and the sheet metal in places where the main left and right wood rails contacted the sheet metal roof, and anywhere wood was in direct contact with metal. This was for squeak prevention, I believe. It looked a lot like a cross between fiberglass and cotton. I cannot tell really what it was. For restoration purposes, what makes a good filler....06-26-2018, 04:20 AM
-
by emac1930 CCPU. I may have made a mistake. Cab is completely apart and awaiting sandblasting and painting. I ordered all new top wood. I figured it would be smart to stain and seal the wood. I realize now that the wood should be painted but some people do not paint the wood.
Last night I found a great website by Douglas Cox on installing the roof. I went through the site a few times and...01-02-2021, 04:07 PM
Comment