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  • BAD BRAKES

    Relined my brake shoes with new lining & had the drums turned and trued and now I don't have the braking power I had before , have put sevral miles and two adjustment but still very weak braking power,, any suggestions ?

  • #2
    Did you have the shoes arced to match your drums? How much play do the linkages have. Are the roller tracks worn? This stuff will make a huge difference. Rod
    "Much of the social history of the Western world, over the past three decades, has been a history of replacing what worked with what sounded good." Thomas Sowell

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    • #3
      Like Rod said most likely the full shoe lining is not in contact with the drum. After you put a few miles on it you'll see where it's hitting and where it is not. They can wear in but that can take some time. Probably to much time for your liking. Ck out this thread. Another way to skin a cat
      https://www.vintagefordforum.com/for...5-arcing-shoes
      3 ~ Tudor's
      Henry Ford said
      "It's all nuts and bolts"


      Mitch's Auto Service ctr

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      • #4
        Did you lose any "pills" when you did the front brakes?
        They effectively lengthen the brake actuating rod.
        The front brake arms should be tilted forward at about 15° with all the play out of the rods, and before the brakes are applied.
        For example, if looking at the driver's side, the arm should be at about the 10:30-11 AM position.

        If the arms are vertical before applying the brakes, you will have no braking action at all

        How much free play in the brake pedal before the cross shaft begins to move? There should be almost none at all
        Last edited by tbirdtbird; 07-08-2019, 08:07 PM.

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        • #5
          OK, let's start back at the beginning of what was done.

          First, what directions were used for setting up the brakes, if it was Les Andrews Red book, I disagree with the method.

          Second, before you set the brake rods did you have the proper 15º angles?

          Third, did you adjust the distance between the brake pedal and cross shaft?

          Forth, was the ends of the cross shaft vertical before setting the distance from shaft to wheel?

          If the brake adjustment wasn't followed correctly all bets are off.

          ie: set pedal to cross shaft distance to obtain vertical cross shaft ends...set brake pivots to 15º forward for fronts, rearward for rears...set brake rod length to just fit clevis pins...set wheel adjusters to just allow wheel to spin freely.

          If you do these steps first, then drive around and check each drum temp with IR temp gun and adjust so all are about equal temp, you should have good brakes.

          Now, without knowing what drums and linings you are using, that is the best guess I can give you. Just because the linings are bonded, doesn't mean they are compatible with the old drums. This is the reason I only advocate the use of Randy Gross brakes, drums and linings, they work well together.
          You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

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          • #6
            It's all written here, save your fingers

            https://www.vintagefordforum.com/for...edure#post1182
            3 ~ Tudor's
            Henry Ford said
            "It's all nuts and bolts"


            Mitch's Auto Service ctr

            Comment


            • #7
              Recently I made a fixture using a donor spindle for straightening wheels, and later discovered it makes an excellent bench to setup backing plates. After I get the shoes centered as close as possibles I then work on the getting the shoes contact surface fit close to fit the drum it is being matched to. First I use a tool to measure the inside diameter and set it It has a gauge to measure the shoes. I adjust the shoes to what the inside diameter of the drum. I take my centering indicator tool and adjust the bar and set it with a square. I adjust it so it isn’t dragging on any part of the shoe until I stick a piece of sandpaper between it and the shoe. Move it back and forth over the shoe making sure the adjustable bar has kept a square position.
              Attached Files

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Dennis View Post
                Recently I made a fixture using a donor spindle for straightening wheels, and later discovered it makes an excellent bench to setup backing plates. After I get the shoes centered as close as possibles I then work on the getting the shoes contact surface fit close to fit the drum it is being matched to. First I use a tool to measure the inside diameter and set it It has a gauge to measure the shoes. I adjust the shoes to what the inside diameter of the drum. I take my centering indicator tool and adjust the bar and set it with a square. I adjust it so it isn’t dragging on any part of the shoe until I stick a piece of sandpaper between it and the shoe. Move it back and forth over the shoe making sure the adjustable bar has kept a square position.
                Dennis, I wish I had seen that setup 40 years ago! It would have saved me a lot aggravation! And now I’m too old to do anything like that wheel and brake work again. My dad used to say, “We get so soon old and so late shmart.”

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