After my scare with the hot coil by leaving the key on I have upgraded to a kill switch and now with dash installed I can tell if key is off/on. I appreciate all the input from you guys! Mitch I hope it is aligned correctly.
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We need a straight on pic to check your work!:p3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctr -
I wouldn't know how to turn it on!!!Comment
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simple, gently push and turn clockwise. To turn it off, gently push and turn CCW, watch the fingers it will be HOTYou wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!Comment
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3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctrComment
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It's all fixed spy...Thanks wiz for the tutorial! Now if I can get that damn break switch link to stay connected to switch. Stays well on special clevis on brake.Comment
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Beauford, WAIT!!!
Unplug the fuse first!!
What year is that and which switch did you get??
Show me a picture of that switch.You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!Comment
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Get out your tape and measure it, should NOT look like this one. This one WILL fail you and try to burn up your wiring!! There is NO WAY you can set this one where it works with any adjustment on your brake rods and pedal. The other day we spent the better part of the day trying to fine tune this so when the pedal was slammed to the floor, as in an emergency stop, we were unable to make it work. I believe this switch to be from Vintiques.
20170902_181533_1504401399895_resized.jpg20170902_181539_1504401401516_resized.jpgYou wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!Comment
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Measured the same 3inComment
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Mine is brattons and usually it would come in a vintique box if it were. Probably the same though...any others out there that mount to trans?Comment
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Here, let me show and explain what happens.
See, if you adjust everything to work with a normal push down on the brake pedal, it will work well, but when you slam on the brakes and the pedal hits the floor, it is way too much stroke for the bar in the switch and this is what it does. And it doesn't matter which wire is hot, they both go to chassis!!
BL sw3.jpgBL sw 4.jpgYou wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!Comment
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It musta already did that to me and was wondering why the link was off the switch. It fell off when I first tested it in the garage. Just seeing what it does as I have never done this. Well, it stayed extended. I'm just in the garage not moving and not slamming on the brakes...geez...what are our options? -
*sighs* well, to tell you the truth, nothing except getting a different brand. We tried to make a longer connector to the brake pedal and it didn't help. I was fortunate to find another brand at our Model T swap meet.
Here is what I suggest you do with yours. Take something like a pail handle and start a bit longer than the rod you already have and see if you can adjust it to work. Take the case off yours and keep looking at it with different lengths of connecting rods. You may also be able to find a spring that is strong enough to pull it back the ½" or so needed to activate the switch, but soft enough to not pull the shaft all the way through if you stomp on the pedal.
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I went a totally different way and ripped the crap stuff out of mine and installed a motorcycle rear stop light switch, but I'm not about to pull mine apart just to show you, sorry but it is adjusted and works really well.
Now, it's not beyond the realm of possibility that if I have enough money left at the end of the month I could build this bad one like I did the one on my car. But I wouldn't hold my breath for that to happen.You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!Comment
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Beauford let me check when i get home there are better switches out there,Comment
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The 30-1 is a better design than the 28-9 switch, but if the switch and brakes are properly adjusted, the shaft will not be pulled too far forward.
You can also use a push lock on the end of the shaft, then use a spring to pull, so it can't be pulled too far forward when the pedal goes down too much.Comment
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When you have a '29 RPU on a early 28 frame with 19" wheels and a 1930 motor the only points I'm scoring are from the public at the local ice cream shop. LOLComment
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Beau post 14 gave you the same advice I would have that older switch was used on model t fords as well.Comment
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I have no key for my electrolock ignition switch, but I have a key machine and blanks. What are the chances of making my own key (how to go about it would be a handy bit of info)or can someone make one for me ? Thanks, Pat...You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 2 photos.06-07-2018, 06:58 PM -
I did ask on another thread but thought I should start a new topic. How does the ignition switch cable head apart to rebuild replace the key door and obtain key codes etc?11-20-2017, 02:29 PM -
I doubt that this is normal?
When I turn the key on I get a negative 5 reading on the ammeter. What would cause this?04-23-2018, 08:14 AM -
can someone refresh me the correct factory installed position of the axle key in the key way, orientation of the beveled tip ?06-25-2017, 11:15 AM -
Good day all. I am new to the Model A lifestyle. I recently purchased a 1928 AR Tudor that was, for the most part, restored. One issue I am trying to address is the key cylinder in the passenger door handle is seized in the handle. I made a key for it & the tumblers are free but the plug won't turn.
I shot it with PB Blaster a couple times a day for many days, I soaked it overnight in Coca...08-09-2017, 03:23 PM -
Hey Guys I know i dont have the experience or knowledge that you guys have, but man i will say that i think the Model A light switch has been the worst to work on. After messing with the dam thing for 4hrs (im not a quitter) i finally gave up and called Berts. Steve took about 5 minutes to straighten me out and get me on the right road, i felt like a complete bone head.
In trying to install...05-24-2018, 11:22 AM -
Original Thread:
https://www.vintagefordforum.com/for...ll-orientation
can someone refresh me the correct factory installed position of the axle key in the key way, orientation of the beveled tip ?06-25-2017, 11:15 AM -
I have a 31' Sport Coupe. I need door keys. Does any vendor sell the lug or how do I go about having keys made?
Phil11-20-2017, 03:14 PM -
I try to start Rusty once a week to exercise him until he's complete. Well it has been about 3 weeks so I go to start him....engine cranks and cranks until battery is dead. I was scratching my head...gas was off...charged battery for a hour, turned on gas and cranked right up. LOL It's that damn new battery cutoff switch I installed that got me out of my normal routine. Rather that than a house f...09-14-2017, 04:30 PM -
I'd like to thank all of you guys for this incredible journey of pain, sorrow and most of all joy!! I was able to recruit a buddy to help install the hood this evening. Interior and door checks installed and ole Rusty is done! I would have never got to this point without a lot of you guys who have steered me down this road since the barn days and a admin who answers all my dumb questions at 3am!!...You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 1 photos.08-17-2018, 09:10 PM
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