You guys are going to get tired of me. What oils are you running in the engine block? I was told to run a certain weight of Rotella? I was also told no synthetics.
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You were told wrong,, i run synthetics in one of my cars mobil 1 15w50 and rotella 15w40 in the other3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctr
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Originally posted by Mitch View PostYou were told wrong,, i run synthetics in one of my cars mobil 1 15w50 and rotella 15w40 in the other
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3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctr
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What did the previous owner use?3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctr
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This debate will never end. My engine builders book strongly suggests a hi-zinc oil for break-in. He reminds us that any area of the engine that has friction, such as rings, bearings, etc, and NOT just the lifters, will benefit. A. Graham Bell has written extensively on engine building.
Rotella used to have high zinc, but no more. Valvoline racing oil does, so that is what we use (30 weight straight for the first 1000 miles). After that he strongly advises Mobil 1, like a 20W50. He states that the synthetics are clearly superior lubricants. He shows lots of data to back that up.
Ya gotta be careful. Castrol and Mobil went to war over the wording for 'synthetic'. Castrol put forth the idea that the concept was for marketing only and had nothing to do with the actual type of oil. Mobil disagreed. The judge must have been asleep because he sided with Castrol. See if I ever buy their stuff.
What does this mean to guys like us? Read the label to see what you are really getting.
My Silverado comes with a factory recommendation for Mobil1.
He mentions another reason to change oil. Not only does the oil get contaminated, despite the filter, but the carbon chains get cut up by gears and such and end up smaller, thus they do not polymerize (thicken) as well with temperature. So, 2 reasons to be sure to change your oil.
Some say any oil is better than the oils of 1930. True. You just dropped $3500 bucks for an overhaul, why not toss in the best you can? Is there a reason not to?
BTW synthetic is so slippery that it will take a motor forever to break in. Avoid it for break-in use. You want the rings to seat!Last edited by tbirdtbird; 08-31-2017, 11:36 AM.
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Had one engine that someone had put a grease zerk in the block lip above the timing gears. Guesse when the timing gear started to make noise he put a shot or two of grease in. Not sure what oil he used, but seems he thickened it over time. That has got to be one one of the strangest farmrer fixes. Think he would have been better off changing the gears. Rod"Much of the social history of the Western world, over the past three decades, has been a history of replacing what worked with what sounded good." Thomas Sowell
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Not sure what data he has to support that, but yes, that is his advice.
Anyone can suggest anything they want.
After we do our research here, we know what we are gonna use. We like hard data.
The 0W- and 5W- and 10W- are more appropriate for modern super-tight tolerance motors, which we don't have
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I just bought a case of 3 gallons of 15w/40 dello SDE, which supposedly is 50% better than the se. It has 800 ppm zinc. It's fairly new on the market. I've always run 15w/40. Originally dello 400, then the rotella t triple protection. I did not know they had lowered the zinc in it. The SDE has some other chemical that adds anti wear protection. I also believe zinc may not be needed, but if it adds anti wear protection and therefore longer engine life, why not.
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Naw, this subject isn't that bad new guys are always wanting some advice on this and there is plenty of good advice on the subject.
I run Motorcraft 10W-40 because 1.) it is refined for Ford by Phillips-Conoco that bought out the Kendall GT-1 refinery which was a great racing engine oil hence the red bottle, 2.) I was a former Ford Parts Mgr. old habits die hard (had a 3.0 V-6 in an Escape that ran 5W-30 Motorcraft for 220,000 miles, developed a drip out of the pan gasket a Ford mechanic friend changed the gasket and asked me 'What kind of oil are you running? and I told him, plus a Motorcraft filter and why? he said because the bottom end of that engine was spotless, it looked like new and the pan was as clean as a whistle) and 3.) you can pick it up at WalMart pretty reasonably.
I don't worry about Zinc in the Model A or the Flathead but I do add a bottle of ZDDP to the Mach 1 at oil change time. Any name brand oil is fine. Mobil, Shell, Havoline, Phillips Trop Artic, they are all good.
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Originally posted by Rowdy View PostHad one engine that someone had put a grease zerk in the block lip above the timing gears. Guesse when the timing gear started to make noise he put a shot or two of grease in. Not sure what oil he used, but seems he thickened it over time. That has got to be one one of the strangest farmrer fixes. Think he would have been better off changing the gears. Rod
Bill W.
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Extensive study done years ago by the Porsche Club for horiz. opposed engines with tear down comparisons and oils with zinc, etc. The zinc had some benefit. We use the ZDDP in our classics but not for ( modern) cars with catalytic convertors. The red bottle of zinc enhanced STP was on the the market for awhile and then pulled for environ.. reasons.
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I run Mobil 1 in my two As and my 39 V8. My 45 truck is a bit leaky, so I use 20w-50 regular oil in that. All my moderns get Mobil 1, too. The only thing I will likely do is move to 20w - 40 for my Model As because Ford recommended 40w. Rich Fallucca has forgotten more than I will ever know about engines, so I would never challenge him. There was a great seminar on oil at the MARC meet in Gettysburg. They should have videoed it for posting on You Tube.
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Right now mine has Rotella T4 15W40 (last 2 oil changes)Alaskan A's
Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska
Model A Ford Club of America
Model A Restorers Club
Antique Automobile Club of America
Mullins Owners Club
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by BNCHIEFThis is not to say anything bad about any oil or brand just some info to consider.http://www.restore-an-old-car.com/be...ssic-cars.html They are taking all the zddp out of the oil we run. Right now I have delo 400LE, being discontinued, I also have shell rotella T-4 both are 15/40 these still have the zddp in the higher concentration. You can also buy zddp https://www.thoughtco.com/...
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Channel: Model A Forum
09-07-2017, 07:41 AM -
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by BNCHIEFThis is not to say anything bad about any oil or brand just some info to consider.http://www.restore-an-old-car.com/be...ssic-cars.html They are taking all the zddp out of the oil we run. Right now I have delo 400LE, being discontinued, I also have shell rotella T-4 both are 15/40 these still have the zddp in the higher concentration. You can also buy zddp https://www.thoughtco.com/debunking-...-...
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Channel: Cooling ~ Engine
09-07-2017, 07:41 AM -
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by Michael MSo as not to hijack the other oil thread on here, I thought I would ask a new question in a new thread.
It seems conventional wisdom says you can mix conventional oil and synthetic. Its also been reported that conventional oil will detract from the superior performance of synthetic oil and reduce its benefits.
It's also a given that a quart or more oil stays in the tray...-
Channel: Model A Forum
09-04-2017, 03:12 PM -
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by Standing ElkLet's see if I can remember enough of what I was told to ask this question. Apparently the EPA mandated the removal or maybe the addition of some component to motor oil?? I was told that the new formula now carries an additional code and that it should NOT be used in our motors. Can anyone shed some light on this? Thanks
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Channel: Model A Forum
03-03-2018, 11:16 AM -
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by LeoThere is a lot of "noise" going on at that other site regarding using diesel oil like Shell Rotella 15-40W in the Model A Ford engine. Many swear by it and others cite articles which have appeared in posts and on club sites which advise against it. However, I've yet to see a scintilla of evidence by any owners that claim an engine has actually been damaged through the use of diesel oil....
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Channel: Model A Forum
03-26-2018, 03:29 PM -
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by Big hammerBought oil from Walmart, picked up the wrong weight, took it back to get the right weight. No problem but the young lady said the cap is leaking, she opened it and what was inside was OLD DRAIN OIL !
They made it right but I felt like a heel/crook
So after paying for oil, in fronf of the clerk, I'm going to open the container and check for new clean oil this point forward!-
Channel: Model A Forum
09-18-2017, 09:46 PM -
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by dmdeatonWe may have went over some of this in the oil filter thread. I am still a little grey on how the A oil system works. The A has a oil pump but is not full pressurized? Only certain parts get the oil from the pump? Shops machine and add some internal plumbing to get oil to the cam bearings?
The B blocks have a better oil system?
thanks guys-
Channel: Model A Forum
01-20-2018, 07:30 PM -
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by Tom HicksThe Model T does not have an oil pump. The engine and transmission share an oil pan, they are both bathed in the same oil. That oil is picked up by dippers under the connecting rods and slung around the engine. The magneto is attached to the flywheel and the bottom of it spins through the sump throwing oil everywhere. Ford had a funnel and tube system to catch some of that oil slung by the magneto...You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 2 photos.-
Channel: Model T Forum
09-24-2018, 09:38 AM -
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.........did a search and didn't really find what I was after, but is 5w -whatever- oil too thin for a Model A Ford? I know a lot of guys run 15w-40 Delco I get it, but would 5w30 be a bit too thin? Does that create low oil pressure issues? Reason I'm asking is I can get 5 qt. jugs of 5w30 Motorcraft on sale kinda cheap this week. Semi-synthetic. I realize the 'winter' lower number is for quicker...
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Channel: Model A Forum
11-02-2018, 12:12 PM -
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by merjohnI know this is like asking what oil is best but what brand do you guys, that do this for a living, use?
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Channel: Model A Forum
09-30-2018, 05:16 PM -
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