I reworked an old carb base that was damaged at the secondary well and turned it into a bowl to properly adjust the float. I placed a gasket on the lower half of the carb and measured down ⅝ of an inch and milled a ⅝ inch hole through the casting. Next I use a ¾ inch mill to create a counter bore/rim where I siliconed in a circular piece of clear lexan to create a peep hole to monitor the level/height of the float. (The fuel level should be ⅝ to 11/16 below the bottom of the upper half of the carb.)
The carb base slides onto a piece of wood with a metal dowel attached to it.The wooden base and dowel keeps the carburetor parallel to the table and allows the carb to be easily removed for dumping of the water when setting the float.
An old fuel line with a funnel attached is used on the upper half of the carb to add the water.
They say not to bend the float, but I disagree. I have tried to use combinations of different thicknesses of gaskets for the float valve to no avail. The tolerances of the new stuff is not Henry Ford and the gaskets are either too thick or too thin. Instead I designed a tool to do a controlled bend. Bending it ever so slightly with every adjustment.
Looked all over for a small tin funnel. Something that use to be so common is now 28 dollars in an antique shop.
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